|03-28-2010 07:19 PM|
For the P/B, you can use a port plumbed to the intake itself.
|03-28-2010 07:01 PM|
hey guys, hate to revive an old post but I figured it made more sense than starting a new one up...that carb from ebay came in the mail & it looks like everything should be good but I have a question on installing it...
Vacuum lines...with the old Carter carb, the distributor vac advance connected to a small port on the front of the carb, the PCV connected to a big port on the front, and the brake booster connected to a big port on the back. The Holley doesn't have the same vacuum ports though. Just a small vacuum port down by the mounting flange, a small port on the front bowl & a big port by the rear bowl...so what goes where?
|03-17-2010 05:00 PM|
After digging through this & several other forums, I see the question comes up a lot & the answers are very sketchy. After hunting for images, I found a picture of the proper setup...which set off a light bulb in my head:
Once you see it installed, its very simple. Detent cable sits on that bottom horn of the throttle linkage next to where the return spring mounts, so when the throttle is pulled back, it pulls the kickdown forward. I looked again at the picture of the carb on eBay & its got a hole there for a stud, so I think we're good to go. I went ahead & ordered it. Thanks for all the help as always guys!! Wish me luck.
|03-17-2010 12:15 PM|
Alright cool, that definitely sounds like the carb I want. One thing though, I called 'em up & they said it comes with a Ford Kickdown instead of GM. My kickdown cable isn't currently connected so I don't know exactly what I need in order to connect it. the cable is attached to the transmission as it should be & comes through to the bracket on the back of the motor as it should be, then the end of the cable is just hanging free. Does that one on ebay have the right linkages to connect my kickdown to or not? I'm assuming I just put a bolt in a hole somewhere on the throttle linkage & put the end of the cable on it & adjust to where it pulls the cable out as the secondaries engage...right?
Anybody with a 350/TH350 and their kickdown installed correctly have a picture of how this installs? I'm havin' a tough time visualizing it...
|03-16-2010 03:46 PM|
Well to help you out on a decision I have a holley 1850s 600 cfm carb on my 350 sbc and it pushing 400 horse power and I have tuned it to work really well with my setup. I found out about the carb your wanting on ebay cause my Dad got the same carb for his ford 302 engine and it ran like a charm just bolt on and a little tuning and away he went.
He also got it from national carburetors the exact one you have in the link and they look and operate like brand new carbs. I recently rebuilt one for my brother on his 305 chevy and it did excellent. The holley 600 carb will out do any edelbrock 600 in my opinion as I used to have one but sold it after I learned many things about holley's and how to fine tune them.
I would get that one from ebay in a heartbeat if I needed a new one. I am not saying your carter carb is junk or anything just after many years its just better to get a new carb or one that has been refurbished like the one I got. National carburetors are very good with there carbs from my experience. Good luck
|03-16-2010 12:34 PM|
if the idle mixture screws don't do anything then that is a sign the throttle blades are open past the transfer slot at idle.
the engine may need more timing at idle to increase idle speed which would allow the throttle to be more closed at idle (not past the transfer slot).
Or more air needs to be let in other than the front throttle blades. (crack open the secondary blades or drill small holes in the front primary blades)
here is a nice "how to tune a carter/edelbrock carb" write up.
I would use a holley.
|03-16-2010 11:41 AM|
This is the newer style 'shiny' 4160 600 cfm (80457-2 is shown).
Unless there's an issue w/the 'shiny' part, it should be fine.
I see that it comes from Holley w/a black (heaviest) secondary spring in it. You might want to swap that one out for a plain or purple colored spring to get a quicker secondary opening.
|03-16-2010 11:21 AM|
Thanks guys, I'm about 90% sure I have a pressure gauge that came in a kit with my compression tester at home, so assuming I do, I'll double check the fuel pressure first chance I get to tinker for a few minutes.
The calculator on that page & the opinions of pretty much everyone who's more knowledgeable than me (such as you guys) seems to all point toward getting a 600 cfm carb.
So, here's the carb I'm thinking about, its remanufactured but dirt cheap & the seller has great feedback ratings. Added bonus, it has an electric choke (which I'll be asking you guys how to wire) and all the linkages for the kickdown in place, which my Carter is missing. This looks like the right beast to me, yes?
|03-15-2010 11:35 PM|
|03-15-2010 11:28 PM|
If your using a stock mechanical fuel pump, your most likely OK with fuel pressure, unless the pump itself is defective. They sell inline fuel pressure gauges which simply go in the fuel line going to the carb. When you start the engine, you see the fuel pressure going to the carb.
The Carter is similar to the Edelbrock and float adjust can be made with the carb mounted. Top of carb needs to be removed and turned over as you stated.
The difference on a 600 CFM and 750 is the venturi sizes. If the carb is too big, performance will be affected. Symptons like a bog, hestitation, too rich of mixture are all part of being over-carburated. Sometimes a smaller CFM carb will run more efficient, get better mileage and run hard. Bigger is not always better when it comes to carbs. The choice is yours. Important note, no matter what carb you go with or purchase, regardless of CFM, brand, the carb will need to be calibrated to your engine (ex. idle mixture, jetting, etc.)
Here's a good website for you to read. It also has a carb calculator to see what CFM's are appropriate for you application.
|03-15-2010 10:36 PM|
ok, so dumb question...how do I test my fuel pressure? If it makes the difference, I'm using the stock mechanical fuel pump, so I can't imagine it'd be building up too much pressure...
For float level, I assume the only way to check it is to take the top back off the carb, flip it upside down & measure the distance to the floats like you do when rebuilding it right? Can I leave the carb on the car & just take the top off, or do I need to pull it out & really disassemble?
From what I can tell, appearance wise & based on rebuild kit part numbers, it seems a Carter AFB 9000 series (my carb) is the same carb as an Edelbrock Performer. So if a Holley or Edelbrock is the way to go, is there any real advantage to the 600 or 650 cfm Holley vs my 750 carter/edelbrock? I mean, I understand 600 may be all I need, but does that mean 750 is too much? Am I going to spend $200 to decrease performance instead of 50 bucks to rebuild an otherwise superior carb?
|03-15-2010 07:52 PM|
|kleen56||Carbs are only good when they calibrated correctly to your specific engine. Holley's are always a popular choice and have great performance. Edelbrocks are easy to work on and dependable. I agree with the others that a 600 CFM or 650 would be all you need. I personally like Holley's but the double pumpers and not vacuum secondaries. Just my opinion. Be careful buying used carbs. Some people think they know how to modify them and can really mess up a good carb.|
|03-15-2010 06:35 PM|
|cobalt327||After the fuel pressure is OK, the next thing to check is the float level.|
|03-15-2010 06:11 PM|
|Fast 4 Door||
|03-15-2010 06:00 PM|
|techinspector1||Have you monitored your fuel pressure? No modern 4-bbl carburetor needs more than 5 psi at the carb inlet. Get the pressure under control before you do anything else or you'll be chasing this forever.|
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