|Yesterday 05:49 AM|
from the first page
All I've ever used has been Ospho.I've never rinsed it off or touched it with water I just let it dry.the heavier spots where you see the streaks stay tacky longer than the rest and if you were to prime over them while tacky, I'm sure there would be problems.
When I'm ready to prime, I just sand with a da or scuff pad and wipe off with wax & grease remover.I'm pretty sure I'll be priming tomorrow so you'll see the whole process.
|07-11-2014 08:52 PM|
|blazintowers||I for one am also grateful this thread IS STILL ACTIVE! JEEZ, why close and archive away such a plethora of knowledge??? I went to google searching for rust solutions on my 65 chev, and found this site. Its been great and very informative reading this entire thread over the last week in between the hours I spend out back working in the shade on my project. I feel a lot more comfortable now using a little ospho in those inconspicuous and hard to reach areas, mostly inside of the quarters and interior roof panel, oh and also the under side of the trunk deck and package tray. Car was rot free until the previous owner had a leak in his garage and it dripped on the rear window for years without repair...|
|07-11-2014 06:22 PM|
One more thought. Maybe the thing that is misleading folks is Mike saying to treat the panel and it will not rust back. That is because of the residue that protects the panel. Never has anyone said it is advisable to just pick the panel up and paint it without properly preparing it.
OK, I am back out of this.
|07-11-2014 06:18 PM|
I have never used Ospho and do not have any basis to judge it. But.....DeadBodyMan (Mike) has always advised to wipe of all excess after treating BEFORE it dries. Then retreating and washing panel before painting to remove the acid. He also advises sanding the area with a DA with 80 grit for a good tooth. As Shine says, Once the panel is retreated to eliminate any acid residue and then washed with water the acid is no longer an issue.
It concerns me when I hear people say somebody's idea does not work when they have not done it his way.
Bottom line is, any acid residue left on a panel will have a negative effect on adhesion.
|07-11-2014 05:44 PM|
|07-11-2014 02:14 PM|
|shine||i would suggest you follow your paint mfg recommendations .|
|07-11-2014 01:35 PM|
|07-11-2014 01:02 PM|
|shine||rinse the acid well and it is not a factor .|
|07-11-2014 12:21 PM|
Just yesterday I sprayed the same Epoxy primer over an untreated bare metal piece. I will wait a week and then do the same scratch test. I will post some pics later in the week.
|07-11-2014 11:57 AM|
how long did the ospho dry before being sprayed?
did you also spray an untreated panel to test under the same conditions?
|07-11-2014 10:35 AM|
|67Elcamino||Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?|
|07-11-2014 09:26 AM|
Hello Roger, I actually have found Deadbodyman's posts quite informative. I think anyone reading these types of post would understand that these are just one mans opinions and should test everything that is advised to them themselves.. That is the beauty of these type of forums forthe most part unbiased opinions.
I am located in hot, dry, sunny Southern California and only do minor bodywork and paint as a hobby and most of the work from home. I dont quite hear as many people at local car shows etc.. talking about using Ospho or any type of rust neutrealizing chemicals on recently sanded or blasted metals. I think people that are inquiring about it are those who need to leave the bare metal exposed for long periods of time.
Im doing a test sample on my panels and do agree that if the treated area does not adhere the Epoxy primer as well as the untreated I will definitely be going without it.
|07-11-2014 07:17 AM|
Here's a quote of what I said about this thread back in August of 2010:
"You have found something that works for you. That's great. And, you've shared that here. Fine again. But it's another thing to keep pushing your position over and over again here to strongly influence others to use a practice that is not a recommended or generally accepted one. Especially since this site gets a lot of novice people that just stop by occasionally for advice and may leave thinking that your way is the accepted way. I think that is wrong."
Here's is Jon's reply to that:
"I think that roger1's last paragraph above is a fair, reasonable, and accurate statement. The red carpet has been rolled out for you to document a controversial practice whose use runs against the recommendations of the bulk of the professionals on this forum (among whose ranks I will happily include you as well).
There are multiple threads on this topic, with multiple consecutive posts by you. There is a wiki article I made for you, that shows up on the first page in Google when searching for "Ospho". There are photos. There are videos. Your perspective on the use of Ospho will be received by many people, for years to come. I think it's a great example of how we give equal voice to opposing viewpoints.
Nevertheless, while I think it's important to give a voice to controversial viewpoints, I don't think it's acceptable to give that voice a loudspeaker and a podium. Your position is being pushed too aggressively, and in a manner that does not adequately share the stage with the opposing viewpoint. Please reconsider your communication strategy."
This thread should have been closed long ago.
|07-11-2014 07:01 AM|
Blasting and epoxy prime is the best way to go.
Rust rare in Texas???? Shows you don't know about that too.
|07-11-2014 05:57 AM|
once the Ospho dries its just a coating it does NOT continue coroding metal .It sounds like Muratic acid is what your confusing it with....
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