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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-17-2014 07:48 PM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I thought I got kicked off the site again...

You didn't get the boot yet.
They're back now.
11-17-2014 12:12 PM
deadbodyman I thought I got kicked off the site again...
11-17-2014 09:13 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
If there is black anywhere, there is rust.
I used a product that claimed to turn the rust into iron something or other. It claimed you could paint over it. The paint on my truck is now fubarred.

What I do now is I use the acid as a rust "finder". Hit the black spots with a wire wheel and then apply some more. The black spots will be smaller each time. When it can be applied and there are no more black spots, the rust is gone.

Scape a bit of the black layer away and see if there is rust directly below the surface.


Here's what happens when you leave the black:













This is how it needs to be so there are no future problems:
I had to use a mini sandblaster to git it all out of the pits.




Looks like my pics went AWOL.
11-17-2014 07:39 AM
DanielC I use one of these small wire wheels in a reversable drill.


There are larger wire wheels, but I think they do not get into the bottom of rust pits as well. After using the wire wheel, for a while, the bristles lean over, away from the directionn of rotation, and reversing the direction of rotation, the bristles dig in a little better. Slow speeds seem to work work better for me, also.
11-17-2014 06:50 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
I began using Deadbodyman's technique for Ospho rust treatment on a surfaced rusted car that I will be working on in about 2-3 months. Just wanted to slow down the rust as much as possible. As I sprayed Ospho and cleaned up the surface rust I noticed some dark black spots on the metal. Do these need to come off before I Epoxy over the ,metal? Or does the fact that they are black mean that the rust has neutrealized? FYI; these blackish spots where there before I used the Ospho process
Thats normal to see (age spots) (freckles) they should sand or spot blast right out...coarse wire cup...You see it a lot under the lacquer paints...
11-17-2014 04:57 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Lizer, I should of clarified a bit more. I noticed the spots there before but they were not black like they appeared after the Ospho treatment. They were somewhat of a darker rust color before
If there is black anywhere, there is rust.
I used a product that claimed to turn the rust into iron something or other. It claimed you could paint over it. The paint on my truck is now fubarred.

What I do now is I use the acid as a rust "finder". Hit the black spots with a wire wheel and then apply some more. The black spots will be smaller each time. When it can be applied and there are no more black spots, the rust is gone.

Scape a bit of the black layer away and see if there is rust directly below the surface.


Here's what happens when you leave the black:













This is how it needs to be so there are no future problems:
I had to use a mini sandblaster to git it all out of the pits.



11-16-2014 11:56 PM
67Elcamino
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
if the spots were there before you even used Ospho, then how would logic dictate that they were neutralized?
Lizer, I should of clarified a bit more. I noticed the spots there before but they were not black like they appeared after the Ospho treatment. They were somewhat of a darker rust color before
11-16-2014 09:44 PM
Lizer if the spots were there before you even used Ospho, then how would logic dictate that they were neutralized?
11-16-2014 09:04 PM
67Elcamino I began using Deadbodyman's technique for Ospho rust treatment on a surfaced rusted car that I will be working on in about 2-3 months. Just wanted to slow down the rust as much as possible. As I sprayed Ospho and cleaned up the surface rust I noticed some dark black spots on the metal. Do these need to come off before I Epoxy over the ,metal? Or does the fact that they are black mean that the rust has neutrealized? FYI; these blackish spots where there before I used the Ospho process
07-13-2014 02:35 PM
deadbodyman How do you rince it Shine? with just a damp rag or lots of water? I always sand the coating off but this sounds like it may be a good way too...
I have another question .....I stripped my camaro fenders to the metal and since there wasnt any rust at all and I was rushing, I was going skip matal prep with ospho but its been very hot and I kept getting sweat dripping on the metal and my sweaty tee shirt always rubbing on it when I'm not paying attention, leaving rust spots after a few hours do you think I could sand the rust spots out and prime it or will the rust come back if I dont do something after sanding...You must have the same trouble keeping sweat off the bare metal I always wear gloves but my sweaty forearm hits it or my soaking wet shirt...what do you do ? other than getting A/C in the shop...I know your against using acid and I thought of you when I was doing this without the acid and thought I'd ask....
07-13-2014 02:15 PM
shine you left acid residue on the panel to dry . this is exactly what the paint mfg tell you not to do. clean and etch with it but rinse it off while wet if your about to paint. if your storing for long term metal work leave it. but reapply and rinse before paint .
07-13-2014 02:06 PM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?
This is a perfect example of bad adheasion and I would love to help you out and get it working right, its the whole reason I started this thread.If you dont mind I'd like to use you as an example and get you straightend out if your up for it....
07-13-2014 06:42 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
One more thought. Maybe the thing that is misleading folks is Mike saying to treat the panel and it will not rust back. That is because of the residue that protects the panel. Never has anyone said it is advisable to just pick the panel up and paint it without properly preparing it.

OK, I am back out of this.

John
As a matter of fact ,John I've warned against doing this over and over and its still the #1 mistake people make...I also warned over and over to check adheasion of the epoxy BEFORE going any further...
any idiot can remove rust and get clean metal with the stuff or use it to keep the metal from rusting, its AFTER that where the problems start...and its also THE reason for this thread...To use ospho sucessfully...as I do and many ,many others do....
Well ok, Its really All the fame and fortune,helping others has nothing to do with it...
07-13-2014 06:23 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?
somehow I missed this...This is exactly why I started this thread...you missed an important step...explain what you did after the ospho dried 24hrs before you primed ....I know what happened but I want to hear it so I can explain the importance of prepping the ospho for primer....You cant just prime it after it dries...theres a protective film there...
07-13-2014 06:11 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
Then you have no credibility. That statement right there tells everyone you don't know what you are talking about.
Blasting and epoxy prime is the best way to go.

Rust rare in Texas???? Shows you don't know about that too.
You didnt answear my question how do YOU fix rust on running driving cars?
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