|04-25-2010 11:08 AM|
|obengston||Well I finally got pressure to all the brakes. Remember I installed a rearend that had SSBC disc brakes on it. The front is the factory 4 piston disc brakes. About 3 hours with a suction on all the lines. But now I have problems stopping. The brake pedal seem to be hard, and slows down not lock up. (it is factory power brakes). I checked my vacuum only about 8-10. So I ordered a electric vacuum pump from SSBC ($270 ugg). I installed it and it runs the shuts off only for a minute the starts running again (this is without me touching the brakes). I drove it, and when I hit the brakes the 1st push seems to work good, but then becomes hard again and slows the car. So I'm thinking the problem may be the Power Booster not holding vacuum good once the brake is engaged. Any opinions. I ordered a replacement booster yesterday, will see when it gets here in a couple of days. If it fixes the problem I'm going to try it without the electric vacuum. If it works looks like I will be selling a pump. Anyway Just wanted to see if anyone had any opinions. Also I do have a new master cylinder as well (factory replcement for disc brakes).|
|04-13-2010 08:23 AM|
Get with TECH @ SSBC to supply the needed parts.
|04-13-2010 08:06 AM|
Thanks for the replies. No I did'nt change my M/C, used the same disc/Drum M/c that came stock. The only thing I changed was the rear end with disc brakes from SSBC. So I quess I need to possibly look into a different M/C , but do I use the same distribution block??, and remove my proporting valve (stock one). Thanks,
|04-13-2010 06:45 AM|
Something is askew???
When you change from a Disc/Drum set up to a Disc/Disc set up you have to change the master cylinder cause a Disc Caliber uses more fluid than a drum cylinder. I am surprised that the manufacture told you that your current system would work. If everything brake wise, on the car worked normally before you changed over to the Disc set up and now it doesn't it sounds like you pedal is reaching full travel before you get enough fluid back to the brake to even bleed it correctly let alone build up pressure. I use a brake Pressure gauge when I start to have to issues that aren't easily fixed. I will test the output pressure from the MC through the proportioning / combination valve to confirm that area is good first SSBC sells a nice kit you can get for about $50-$60.
Checked out your ride looks great to bad you don't live close by we could bring it in the shop and fix you up. Don't have enough room to in here to go step by step to help you thou.
Maybe a call back to your manufacture tech depart would help or even another manufacture tech could help you I have found some tech guys are very knowledgeable and some well lets say I have wasted some mins on my cell phone at times too.
|04-13-2010 03:17 AM|
You should not need the metering valve on four wheel disc. You should only need a distribution block (pressure differential) and a proportioning valve. The actual brake line size(s) may need to be changed.
Remember, you are mixing two entirely different brake systems on one vehicle so modifications are going to be necessary.
What did SSBC advise on this?
|04-12-2010 02:01 PM|
if there are no leaks you still have air in the system would be my guess
im assuming there is fluid in the master (yea i know seems like a dumb question but its happened )
do yourself a favor and get a pressure bleeder, cheap at harbor freight
|04-12-2010 10:12 AM|
Brake Pressure Issues,, Help Please
I have a 68 Camaro with the factory power disc/drum set-up. I just recently added a Moser rear end with disc brakes (SSBC brakes). I called SSBC and they said I should be able to use the set up I had. I have all new stainless brake lines front to rear, and new rubber flex lines in the front. The front is the factory 4 piston disc brakes. I have lost all pressure. I also changed the M/C with a new one (stock), but still can't build pressure. I bench bleed the M/C and started at the right rear trying to bleed, but can't seem to build pressure up. The pedal goes to the floor. I believe the proporting valve may be leaking. Could that be my issue? I have sent for a new one. The distribution block seems to be good (but I don't know if that can have anything to do with it. The distribution block is just below the M/C, and the proportiong block is to the right of that. If I pump the brake really fast after about a second pressure/air will push back up into the Master cylinder from the front part of it, which I believe is the part that runs to the proportioning block. I could be wrong on the name I'm calling it a proportioning block, but I have seen sites that list it as a hold off valve (may be the same just worded different. Any suggestions????