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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-22-2010 08:06 PM
glennsea I converted from points to elect, rewired and it runs smooth as a kitten. No issues, stable timing, etc. I'll only go back if there is an EMP event!
04-19-2010 12:38 PM
cobalt327 The first thing that comes to mind is the condenser.

Also, if there should be a resistor wire or ballast resistor- and its missing, if the key is left on and the points are closed (engine OFF), points adjusted too close (too much dwell).
04-19-2010 12:05 PM
glennsea So I never really got it running well with the single point so I installed a second point, re-gapped, adjusted timing, everything was running great. About 2 hours of driving and it started to sputter, etc. and ran like crap.

I checked the point that I installed and it was burned up, almost gone, so timing was changing as I was driving and I could not get it right. I removed that new point and got it running ok.

So what would be causing this one point to go bad like this? It is the same spot that went bad originally. I now have the Electronic conversion kit to do away with the points but I am concerned that something else is going on that should be fixed as well.
04-16-2010 09:51 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
Does the length matter? Do I need to math it or would shorter be fine?
If you're talking about the electrical lead- and NOT the steel spring that controls the points' closing, then it doesn't matter if you change the length to a shorter one. Even longer will be OK, just so it's not so long as to alter the resistance significantly.
04-16-2010 09:43 AM
Bill Adkins The length from the set screw to the pivot point are important. If the solid electrical lead attaches to a post then it will also be important to match.
04-16-2010 09:37 AM
glennsea Does the length matter? Do I need to math it or would shorter be fine?
04-16-2010 09:33 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
On these points the wire inside the dist is a flat band twisted around to fit.
Ahhh- this MAY point (haaa) to them being a Mercury Marine (#391-5090) or GLM (70060) piece, as opposed to the actual Mallory piece.

Crosses to the Mallory 25042(X) used in the 24, 25, 26, 27 Series points-type distributors.

Also GLM # 70060 and Mallory #9-29005 used in marine apps- marine apps have the solid copper strap instead of a wire.

04-16-2010 08:55 AM
Bill Adkins But of course Christopher Robin
04-16-2010 08:51 AM
glennsea Just a thought here. On these points the wire inside the dist is a flat band twisted around to fit. This band was rubbing on a screw causing a short. Could I remove this band and replace with a regular wire the same length or even shorter to get around this problem until my parts arrive?
04-15-2010 03:05 PM
glennsea I ordered the electronic upgrade kit for it so when it gets here I am doing away with the points. I am trying to get it running good for the next couple of days until those parts get here.

I also called around trying to find replacement points yesterday but no one seems to carry them, mail order only. I don't like being in a situation where I can't get part like this.
04-15-2010 02:49 PM
cobalt327 Reason I ask, is the concern over the phasing of the rotor to the distributor cap terminal, being off.

To check it, you need a timing light and a "windowed" dist. cap (like an old, worn out one) that you use to actually see the relationship of the rotor to the terminal.

More HERE, page 2.
04-15-2010 02:41 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
I gapp'ed to .018 and cannot seem to get the timing right to run good. I have advanced the dist but can't anymore as the wires are binding. I think I am going to increase the gap back to .022 which will advance the timing then I can retard via the cap and find the right setting. I think the only downside to this is smaller dwell time so not as hot a spark but I am not racing it.
I see what you're saying. Have you tried the "good" set of points and condenser on the other point's position? Set at 0.018"/30?
04-15-2010 02:36 PM
glennsea I gapp'ed to .018 and cannot seem to get the timing right to run good. I have advanced the dist but can't anymore as the wires are binding. I think I am going to increase the gap back to .022 which will advance the timing then I can retard via the cap and find the right setting. I think the only downside to this is smaller dwell time so not as hot a spark but I am not racing it.
04-15-2010 12:56 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
This is new to me but it is my understanding that with both points dwell is 33 degrees so now I need to figure what the gap for the single would be to get me back to 33 degrees correct?
The single set of points will like 30, or 0.018" to get in the area of 30.
04-15-2010 12:50 PM
glennsea This is new to me but it is my understanding that with both points dwell is 33 degrees so now I need to figure what the gap for the single would be to get me back to 33 degrees correct?
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