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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-30-2010 09:44 AM
NEW INTERIORS
Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
This does bring up some interesting talking points. On the one hand, it is silly (and potentially a waste of band space) to be reviving old threads to answer questions like "what color should I paint my car?"

On the other hand (and I think it is true for this particular thread) the information provided by CTKid is new and would be valuable to someone using the search function and pulling up this particular thread.

I guess the conclusion I'd draw is that "it depends on the situation". Sometimes it is worth it to add to old threads...and sometimes not.

You make a very good point here Cboy..
04-30-2010 09:34 AM
cboy This does bring up some interesting talking points. On the one hand, it is silly (and potentially a waste of band space) to be reviving old threads to answer questions like "what color should I paint my car?"

On the other hand (and I think it is true for this particular thread) the information provided by CTKid is new and would be valuable to someone using the search function and pulling up this particular thread.

I guess the conclusion I'd draw is that "it depends on the situation". Sometimes it is worth it to add to old threads...and sometimes not.
04-30-2010 09:14 AM
302 Z28
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTKid34Ford3W
I realize you are a moderator but you are over the top with this power thing. Why do you care how old a post is when someone reply's? It is information that others can use.
Not really a power thing, we are trying to get people to use the forum search function more before posting when they are looking for information. Never the less, I appreciate your comments.

Vince
04-30-2010 08:58 AM
Centerline Never mind.
04-30-2010 07:02 AM
NEW INTERIORS
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTKid34Ford3W
It is information that others can use.
You are so right..
04-30-2010 01:33 AM
CTKid34Ford3W I realize you are a moderator but you are over the top with this power thing. Why do you care how old a post is when someone reply's? It is information that others can use.
04-29-2010 06:15 PM
302 Z28 4 Year old post, please look at the post dates before you reply.

Vince
04-29-2010 04:35 PM
CTKid34Ford3W For 34 Ford frame dimensions try American stamping. I bought one for $20 at a show last year. It is pretty good.

American Stamping Corporation
75 Downing Street, Suite A | Olive Branch, MS 38654
Phone (662) 895-5300 | Fax (662) 895-5320
Email ascrails@yahoo.com

http://ascrails.com/

Hope it helps.
10-14-2006 08:12 PM
low budget rodder I would love to see it!

Thanks

~Joe
10-13-2006 10:29 PM
Nightfire I can give you the email of a guy who has a mold of a '34 Chevy coupe, looks very identical to a Ford.


Mike
10-13-2006 11:23 AM
low budget rodder building a vehicle like this from scratch is a tough job. I wish you all the luck and hope you can see it through!

~Joe
12-16-2004 08:22 PM
Rob (chuck) Berry
Do it yourself 34

Hey! you are about to do the same as me!!! I have made a 34 roadster from a collection of bits and it looks very close to the real thing. I am waiting to get photos on disc and I will put them up on a project site. To get scale I went to a show and politely asked an owner if I could use his (unfinished) 34 as a template and he was happy to oblige, I made cardboard templates of what I viewed as critical lines and took about 500 measurements using dressmakers tape. Next I went home and made a seating buck which essentially was the floor pan only made from 20mm plywood and bent tubing to make a skeleton frame, by the way I used an overhead projector and a picture of jamie musselmans 34 to get a side profile and cut two more piecesof ply which ended up as the side reference points for the boot lid and daisy panel as well as the lower boot panel. Not having an english wheel I started to search for a car with the same double crown curve as a 34. I found it in a junkyard and paid $150 for a Toyota Hi Ace 12 Passenger Bus ROOF!!!!! Believe it or not this panel has the same contours as a 34 roadster back you just have to know how to cut it into fitting. If you make a buck like I did you will soon see how the roof fits the curve of the skeleton frame. Bonus number one from the old roof was the support frames could be used to enhance the strength of the body, I used mine to lock the back of the body to my homemade wheel wells. So er gunnulf go for it. Speaking of welds I used a mig and 0.6mm wire and used only the steel from the roof panel as it is aluminium killed from the factory going real slow I minimised the warpage, To make the mould shapes around the bottom of the body I used my home made bead roller across the midddle of the back and made hardwood forms to make the corners. The bead over the wheelwell is made from 16x1 round tubing bent to shape then run over to make it oval this was then welded all the way across the wheelwell (took days) both to the roadster back and then to the wheel well in tiny increments.
As far as the chassis plan goes Wescotts the glass body guys in the US has copies of most Ford chassis dimensions with all the hole positions marked. I made my own but that is another story for my journal. Cheers
12-16-2004 07:49 PM
cboy I think scale models can be quite helpful in designing and building rods from scratch and I highly recommend them. With the one caveat being you are not going to get an exact replica of the original body. But most scratch builders are not after an exact copy of a deuce or a T or whatever rod they are building. What they are after is the basic dimensions and proportions. Scale models can also be used to determine if certain frames will be usable under certain bodies.

So 302 is correct about the limitations of using scale models for precise detail, but for scratch building a basic body - I think they are the next best thing to having an actual body sitting in your garage.
12-16-2004 06:59 PM
302 Z28 From my earlier days of scale model building I would not rely too much on the accuracy of a Revelle model. I recently completed an 80" wing span radio controlled P47. I bought a Revelle 1/48" scale model of a P47 to lay out panel and rivet lines on the larger model. Found out real quick that the panel lines did not match from side to side, also the wing profile was way off. I ditched the Revelle model and bought a Hasegawa that was much more accurate, but still had problems. Point is, you will only obtain accurate measurements from a full scale subject. When you try and scale a scaled down version to scale up your measurements are not exact and the inaccuracies are amplified by the scale up factor you are using.

Vince
12-16-2004 04:57 PM
gunnulf Hello again,
Thank you for all your feedbacks. I was wondering if i bought a scaled model of a 34 coupe from REVELL modeling company, are they scaled correctly or would i be doing a hellish mistake?
the length and width are as noted (scaled to what they should be)
length: 397.5cm ~4meters
width: 175cm ~ 13/4meters
of course on being a hotrod it doesn't have to be exactly the same though i want it to look darned close to it.

I've played and used an english wheel and eager to use those bag thingies hehe although i am guessing that its quite close on how i do Armour though 50times larger metal sheets

if anyone with 34 coupes could send me measurements or know where some are located, it would be GREAT help.

thanks. just being on this board makes me want to start even more hehehe

thanks to y'all.
david.
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