|05-07-2010 03:02 PM|
|Dreadhead||Thanx 327 nut. And it turns out I have the stock 327 dome pistons which was used with 64cc heads... I just don't see how lowering the combution chamber by 9 would boost the compression so high ????|
|05-07-2010 11:34 AM|
|327NUT||Hey Dreadhead..........been reading all the comments, your first post said something about this being for the street?? Just a word of caution and then I'm done...DON'T build a race car engine for the street, you will be highly disappointed in it's street-ability and manners.|
|05-07-2010 11:17 AM|
|Dreadhead||Oh yea forgot about tat let me go back and look up a solid(mechanical lift)|
|05-07-2010 06:12 AM|
|05-06-2010 03:14 PM|
|Dreadhead||Migh just go with that... I was also checking out this isky cam at summit CL201281|
|05-06-2010 02:47 PM|
part number 91515001
This cam is a little big, but with a 3500 stall it should run fine for you. Its not the most fuel efficient cam but it'll run. Pretty good match for a Vic Jr. intake too. Requires good headers, 1 3/4" long tubes and a free flowing exhaust.
Something a hair smaller would give you better drivability, and a hair wider LSA.
|05-06-2010 02:33 PM|
|Dreadhead||Thats were I was thrown off a litlle I was lookin at the simple duration. Sorry about that still learning something new day by day... Wel I'll do a little reasearch and post up some that I find.|
|05-06-2010 02:28 PM|
Yes sir. Get a tighter lash cam too, one with lash settings at .025" or less.
|05-06-2010 02:17 PM|
Oh ok... Well I'll be heading to summit to get the kb pistons and swap my cam this weekend. 240's solid lift cam or 225-240 Hydraulic lift cam correct ?
And are you talkin about duration @ .050" ?
|05-06-2010 01:54 PM|
Yes, but there's not much of a mismatch.
|05-06-2010 01:51 PM|
|Dreadhead||See thats the other thing. Summit only offers the victor jr intake for these heads. By my cam and intake basic operating range not matching up won't this cause me to actually lose power ?|
|05-06-2010 06:54 AM|
May be true, may not be true. You need to pick your cam first, and then see what the spring recommendations are for THAT cam. some require more, some require less spring pressure.
I would get a cam in the 240's duration, a 327 can stand a little wider LSA than a 350, something between a 108 and a 110, with about a 4 degree lobe split towards the exhaust side. It'll be fairly streetable but still give you plenty of power through 6500 RPM. A 240's solid cam will actually drive like a hydraulic cam with about 10-15 degrees less duration.
|05-05-2010 04:42 PM|
|ericnova72||You got a pretty decent deal on them then You will want to check the springs on them, the current spring may not be good enough for a solid cam.|
|05-05-2010 04:27 PM|
|Dreadhead||Thanx... And they're complete jus need to get some screw in studs and guide plates|
|05-05-2010 04:20 PM|
Sounds like you are on the right track. If you want to be the killer amoung your friends and be confident out on the street a solid cam is one of the keys that help open that door. Your plan as this thread developed goes hand in hand with that. Your planning on the roller rockers is good, get a stud girdle and good 1-piece chromemoly pushrods to go with them and the cam/EDM lifters.
I've always checked my valve lash about 2-3 times a summer, 5000 miles driven total in a summer and rarely found anything out of adjustment. I was also racing it(Drags)2-3 weekends a month, so it got run hard.
You will have to adjust then a couple times in the first few hundred miles, but after that the valvetrain parts are settled in and comfortable with each other and the lash rarely changes.
The smaller 327 will probably like 1-5/8" headers better than the bigger 1-3/4" which is a plus for you because they are common and cheaper
Were the heads complete or bare castings??
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