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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-24-2010 10:00 AM
BBCMudbogger
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
Chevy has a little surprise. When you put it together with the timing marks on the cam and crank gears facing each other, the engine is set with number 6 in the firing position. If you leave it there and drop the distributor in timed to number 1 firing, it's 180 degrees out.

There plenty of other reasons but let's start with whether that is a situation or not for your set up.

Bogie
Most timing sets come with a little piece of paper in them that clues you into that little surprise.
05-24-2010 04:38 AM
sooper
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
I just saw this, LOL! At least you're consistent.

Bogie
Oh ya,right as the mail I am. Everybody in this house gets a hand to wipe they're arses but when I need one finger. Oh heavens no. Thats just murder
05-23-2010 04:06 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by sooper
I've been 180 out all three engine builds and in one crank you know it cause its exactly the same thing you got. God just goes to show my luck. When the odds are 50/50 you'd think one out of three. I'll bet you mark then flip that rotor 180 you'll be cookin
I just saw this, LOL! At least you're consistent.

Bogie
05-23-2010 04:01 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1974blackz28
So does it have to go a certain way?
No, the Chevy isn't directional like the Ford.

To some extent at idle in the shop running a bit hot is typical. Assuming the timing is set with some advance, the radiator is topped off and closed to make some pressure, there's no vacuum leaks and the carb is dialed in it may prove to be helpful to run a household fan at the radiator to stir up more air across it than what the engine does.

Besides, isn't Houston having summer like temeratures today, low to mid 90's?

Bogie
05-23-2010 03:46 PM
1974blackz28 So does it have to go a certain way?
05-23-2010 03:42 PM
sooper
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
It's a little late to be asking that, don't you think?

Hey your thinkin inside the box man. Think diversity. Drive down the road on 4 cylinders. Stop at road side, whip out your skillet and do up your ham n eggs on the other head. A mans gotta broaden his horizons
05-23-2010 03:28 PM
1974blackz28 right But I pulled a head gasket from felpro and one hole is almost a triangle and the other is a circle, but I ordered the summit brand so im just making sure before I pull the heads and yea I think its a timing issue as well
05-23-2010 03:25 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1974blackz28
is there a certain way the head gasket goes on?
It's a little late to be asking that, don't you think?
05-23-2010 03:18 PM
sooper
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1974blackz28
Thanks guys I ended up forgetting to set it to TDC got it started right away...

Now Its running a bit hot is there a certain way the head gasket goes on?
whats your timing set at? a hot engine's usually not enough advance
05-23-2010 02:35 PM
1974blackz28 Thanks guys I ended up forgetting to set it to TDC got it started right away...

Now Its running a bit hot is there a certain way the head gasket goes on?
05-22-2010 05:57 AM
sooper
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
Chevy has a little surprise. When you put it together with the timing marks on the cam and crank gears facing each other, the engine is set with number 6 in the firing position. If you leave it there and drop the distributor in timed to number 1 firing, it's 180 degrees out.

There plenty of other reasons but let's start with whether that is a situation or not for your set up.

Bogie
I've been 180 out all three engine builds and in one crank you know it cause its exactly the same thing you got. God just goes to show my luck. When the odds are 50/50 you'd think one out of three. I'll bet you mark then flip that rotor 180 you'll be cookin
05-22-2010 03:08 AM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1974blackz28
A local mechanic said I can let the car Idle for 5 minutes while I adjust the timing then do the cam break in is this true?
Just so you know, there is no pressure lubrication to lube the cam and lifters. All they get is what's thrown off the crank and rods and some dripping off the bottom of the cylinders and maybe some "oil fog" from the air in the crankcase. When you are idling the motor, the crank isn't turning fast enough to provide enough oil to be splashed onto the cam and lifters.

Please read post #11 on this thread for a guideline to camshaft install and break-in.....
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/engi...ht=Racer+Brown
05-21-2010 08:31 PM
va4cqd if you let it idle for 5 minutes before trying proper break in, theres a much higher chance you'll be rebuilding it again right away due to a wiped cam
05-21-2010 08:28 PM
1974blackz28 Ok guys it was started up but, I think im having heat soak problems I hear a click from the starter when its hot, If so I already bought a ford solenoid but before I install it does this sound like heat soak?

Also I only let it run for 30 because it was in my garage ( I want to tow it out to a parking lot) because its too loud.

A local mechanic said I can let the car Idle for 5 minutes while I adjust the timing then do the cam break in is this true?

Also on my friends project car he rebuilt the engine and its popping through the car as he accelerates im telling him its a flat cam lobe because he decided not to break it in, can anyone verify that for me.
05-21-2010 02:45 PM
T-bucket23 You can test to see if the slow crank is due to ignition timing by eliminating power to the distributor. As mentioned above you need to get this fired as cranking will hurt the cam eventually.
My guess is you are out of time, many people have issues with this.
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