|07-12-2010 08:03 PM|
|nskeeter99||no one has any ideas. got a new noid. first time i fire her up it will spin it well. after she gets hot just a littel.|
|07-08-2010 09:27 PM|
|nskeeter99||OK other hunny do jobs kept me from the truck for a while. anyway i try ed another solenoid. the Bendix will still release sporadically. the starter still spins.|
|06-08-2010 07:11 PM|
|nskeeter99||while cleaning the solenoid sounds good i have the new permanent magnet mini style so i don't See a way to disassemble it without being destructive.|
|06-07-2010 11:06 PM|
If you take the solenoid apart, you'll find the terminals shown below. They will sometimes be very corroded and worn, causing an erratic starter.
The "trick" is to loosen the lock nuts that hold these terminals in place and rotate them both 180º. This gives a new surface to make a better connection with.
|06-07-2010 09:48 PM|
|nskeeter99||OK few updates. i took the starter out and replaced my brushes, holder and cable to the brushes since they pretty much got cooked. I built a brace, which i also added a heat shield. Ford solenoid with 8 gage wire. it spins over much better now. took her for a drive let her get good and hot. the start only got in the hight 200 were as before 400+, however after hot the starter still spin the engine pretty well but it wonts to just kick out. some time it will turn it for a while and some times as soon as you hit the key. could this be a week solenoid are something else.|
|05-26-2010 01:09 PM|
you mentioned that you replaced the solenoid did you replace the actual starter motor and have you checked the brushes to see if they are wore out causing the starter to draw more current
|05-26-2010 07:45 AM|
What was the result when you disabled the ignition and tried to start the car? Did it turn over any better?
Is your starter shimmed and spaced properly? Maybe you have it too tight against the flywheel and its actually jammed up.
|05-25-2010 09:56 PM|
If the battery cables are "smoking" then there is definetly something wrong with the cable or the ground. Put your voltmeter at the starter and measure the voltage while cranking when hot. I bet you will find that your cables are the culprit! There is corrosion or some kind of resistance in the circuit. This could also mean a faulty ground connection at the block. The battery voltage shouldn't drop less than 10.5 volts when cranking at 80 degrees with a fully charged battery when measured at the battery terminals. The battery voltage should be at least 9.5volts when cranking at the starter terminals. Good Luck.
|05-25-2010 08:23 PM|
|nskeeter99||yep i have a few different batters i have try ed same thing. i have 2 ground 2 wire. my hot wire is 2 gauge. I'm think of doing the ford solenoid deal but with out wiring it to the s terminal but just run anther 2 gauge wire to the starter side of the solenoid. this way when you the start switch. you get the hot wire from the stander ed side of the solenoid and then the ford side will be hot on the starter side so the solenoid dont have to carry as much.|
|05-25-2010 08:12 PM|
|ericnova72||Sounds like inadequate positive battery cable size, a poor ground, or a dead cell in the battery if it does this with several different starters. Have you tried a different battery??|
|05-25-2010 08:01 PM|
|nskeeter99||no heat shild, next to try. i did the tunning thing today. i backed the timming up so far that i lost 4 on my vac went from 16 to 12. no diffrance in the starter issue. tried leaning it out no help. now the starter does pull a lot of juice. it starts to smoke real quick. all of the starters i have the wire from the silniod to the starter starts smoking. even a frend of mines high dollor msd gear starter|
|05-24-2010 09:06 PM|
|nskeeter99||OK here my up date. I do have one of the mini starters from the new trucks. i have one of these and the old style coffee can ones. I have a high tq one and a stand one form a 90 pick up. they have all been on the truck and do the same. I took it for a 15 minuet drive today. when I got home i killed and try ed to restart witht he drag. since i have my rad in the back with elc fans i went on a head and put the charger on the batter at 50 just to make sure it wasn't the batter low. same. I then pussed the dizzy back a couple of deg. same. I have an edelbrock qjet carb, and my step dad has my adjustment tool so I cant try to lean out some. I have duel terminal batter. so i have two grounds both running to the body and the engine. I have a ford solenoid but ant put it in yet. now if i don't tap the peddle a couple of times it will not start for a lot of rotation's. the starter wings right over no issues. now as soon as you tap the peddle it fires right up. i did get me a heat shield for the solenoid from the jy this weekend, which made no difference. but was think of running some of my unused header wrap off the back of the shield, since some one earlier said the wraps on the starter ant worth much. figured i would let it just hand over the back. I'm gona try and get my adjustment tool and lean it out some time this week just cant think of much else big headache.|
|05-24-2010 07:17 PM|
I'd go a couple ways here.
First is to use the small body permanent magnet starter of the newer (1990's) Chevy/GMC V8s. These are much lesser in diameter and will provide some much needed air space between it and the exhaust.
Second is a heat shield rather than insulation. The problem with insulation is it will keep heat in as well as out, so the starter motor can get quite hot from soaking back from the block as well as from the exhaust. I, also, think you'll find a plumbers flame shield to be useful. These are a piece of Kevlar used as flame shield by plumbers when soldering pipe around wood structures, kind of pricey for what they are but are quite effective. One of these attached to the heat shield or draped between it and the header will do a lot to stop the heat from transferring, where the shield alone just reflects heat, though this is pretty effective by itself. They are available at home improvement centers.
Don't forget to bracket the back of the starter to the block. This offers a lot of stability for the starter and takes a lot of twisting motion off the big mounting bolts.
|05-24-2010 07:34 AM|
Take a few degrees of timing out of it and see if this makes a difference. At least then you can confirm or eliminate timing as the problem.
|05-24-2010 07:24 AM|
Skeeter: you never answered my suggestion above. I dont think its the starter
The car starts fine cold because you have no gas in the cylinders yet. If your timing is too advanced or the carb too rich it wont matter on a cold start. Once the engine is warm, on a restart, you can get the problems you have
After its hot, disable the spark and see if the engine cranks. My bet is that the starter spins fine even at 200 degrees
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