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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 09:45 AM
roger1 The instructions for SPI epoxy are clear.
Sand metal with a D/A and 80 grit.

Where I can't get to with a D/A, I think the finish that a media blast leaves is good too. I use Black Diamond media.
Today 08:11 AM
Chevymon Mike, you have given a lot of good information here, but I just don't agree with what you are saying, and I use SPI also. BTW, Its hard for us--at home--to match what the factory was doing with primer 60 years ago.
Today 06:46 AM
roger1
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
When the factory sprays epoxy the metal is NOT sanded...
The factory sprays epoxy???
Today 06:24 AM
deadbodyman When the factory sprays epoxy the metal is NOT sanded...I don't know about other epoxies ,I only use SPI ,its been so long now I don't remember using anything else since DP-40... IMO most epoxies are about useless PPG hasn't had a good epoxy primer since DP-40 even then,as good as it was, it sanded like a rock,the only way to sand it was with 80 grit...It's also a good idea to check your adheasion before starting your filler work .I do this with a razor scraper and try scraping the epoxy off the metal but in most cases the average guy can test adheasion by sanding the epoxy down to the metal with 180 and feathering the epoxy back to make sure it feathers back nicely with no broken edges....
Yesterday 07:28 PM
Chevymon pugsy is totally right on that. I use a hand held brush, like a tooth brush but it needs to be stainless steel. It doesn't throw the acid all over the place, and you don't have to reapply as often. Just like he said, you have to keep after it until its just shiny white metal when reapplying. If you get a sludge, that has to all come off while the sludge is dissolved.

Mike, I'm sure you know, but for those that don't---- as far as I know all the epoxy manufacturers require an 80 grit DA scratch on bare metal, although PPG is OK with 180 scratch when using their metal prep with zinc phosphate in it.

Tamco paint makes an epoxy---similar to what boeing uses---that can go over anything, even if its unsanded, but they still recommend sanding when ever possible. And they claim to be the only one available to the public with that option. I have used it and it works.
Yesterday 05:06 PM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
DeadBodyman, My concern now if how I can get rid of the minor black freckles left on the paint. I was hoping that these spots, which were there before the ospho treatment, were already there. Theyre a PITA to take off and was hoping I didnt have to grind them off the entire car?

Any opinion on this? Im I over thinking this?
The black freckles are converted rust. That is if you used acid on it. Under the black will be nice brown rust ready to cause paint failure.
I've used a rust convertor which is basically the same as Ospho. The instructions state that the black converted rust is ready for primer and paint but it's a bunch of bull.

I ended up using a small spot blaster to get into the pits.
A wire wheel in a grinder or drill may sometimes get it all out.
Apply more acid and if it turns black, you're not finished yet.
Eventually, the acid won't turn anything black anymore and you've got all the rust out.
Yesterday 11:28 AM
67Elcamino DeadBodyman, My concern now if how I can get rid of the minor black freckles left on the paint. I was hoping that these spots, which were there before the ospho treatment, were already there. Theyre a PITA to take off and was hoping I didnt have to grind them off the entire car?

Any opinion on this? Im I over thinking this?
04-24-2015 02:58 PM
deadbodyman yes, sometimes I do ,sometimes just 80. I tend to work through the grits when prepping bare metal. once it starts shining and getting super clean I have a hard time stopping But I use epoxy for everything, over my filler work and as a sealer when I need one.its a self etching primer too, so it sticks great to unsanded metal as well .theres really no need for any other primers ,SPI epoxy is all I use 95% of the time
04-24-2015 11:03 AM
Chevymon
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I prefer sanding it off ,starting with 80 then 180 and finally 320 all dry sanded with a DA..
I've had great success with it for many years with no problems at all.....
Mike, are you spraying epoxy over 320 grit scratches on bare metal?
04-23-2015 05:23 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Can someone briefly summarize this thread for me?
So should I use Ospho or not?

Im leaning to using it based on this.. Also using SPI Epoxy

https://youtu.be/-yA8q4K-_Bo
I'll try...converting rust is never a good idea no matter what the product claims....
Theres many ways to "remove" rust,Ospho is one of them without the mess of media blasting.
Ospho has some advantages over other methods like removing rust on a running and driving car because you don't have to worry about the glass and sand getting into the motor and other moving parts ,causing problems down the road.
If you use Ospho be sure to remove the protective coating that keeps the metal from rusting....
theres two ways to remove the coating when your ready to prime. 1) thuroly sand it off or 2) rewet with more ospho and rince off while its wet. I prefer sanding it off ,starting with 80 then 180 and finally 320 all dry sanded with a DA.. and a wire wheel on the pitted rust ,slowly with a coarse wheel as not to polish the surface.
So far SPI epoxy primer works best so its a great combo...
when done properly there are no adheasion problems BUT it does have to be done properly if not you WILL have problems so "yes" use it but use it properly. I've had great success with it for many years with no problems at all.....
04-22-2015 02:32 PM
shine i think you need to watch the beginning of the video again .
04-22-2015 02:19 PM
67Elcamino Can someone briefly summarize this thread for me?
So should I use Ospho or not?

Im leaning to using it based on this.. Also using SPI Epoxy

https://youtu.be/-yA8q4K-_Bo
11-17-2014 06:48 PM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I thought I got kicked off the site again...

You didn't get the boot yet.
They're back now.
11-17-2014 11:12 AM
deadbodyman I thought I got kicked off the site again...
11-17-2014 08:13 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
If there is black anywhere, there is rust.
I used a product that claimed to turn the rust into iron something or other. It claimed you could paint over it. The paint on my truck is now fubarred.

What I do now is I use the acid as a rust "finder". Hit the black spots with a wire wheel and then apply some more. The black spots will be smaller each time. When it can be applied and there are no more black spots, the rust is gone.

Scape a bit of the black layer away and see if there is rust directly below the surface.


Here's what happens when you leave the black:













This is how it needs to be so there are no future problems:
I had to use a mini sandblaster to git it all out of the pits.




Looks like my pics went AWOL.
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