|08-11-2013 11:58 AM|
|fap97||I took me 45 min to finally consult this forum to figure why the rear caliper pistons would not compress. Instead of buying a special tool to use once in a while, I used a quick grip clamp, the type you would find in Home Depot or Lowes. Just install the bottom caliper bolt so it will be supported. Squeeze the clamp hard and turn while holding the caliper. You will have to keep resetting the clam. The clamp is much cheaper and have many more uses than a specialized tool.|
|11-03-2012 09:33 AM|
|11-03-2012 12:06 AM|
|Marcus Anton||I'm sure no one will read this but just in case I have a 99 Mustang so I feel your pain, but there is a cheaters way of doing it. Use a C clamp to keep pressure on caliper then use channel pliers every turn or so adjust clamp pressure it takes less time and less frustration this way. It works with no real chance of hurting anything. Just be patient.|
|12-20-2010 12:30 PM|
mustang rear brake lining replacement
I just finished my first brake job on my 2008 Mustang GT. I chose to purchase a special tool to rotate and push the rear caliper pistons on both the left and right rear calipers. The tool kit worked very well and is well worth the $45 from harbor freight. I did not know if the left side caliper (drivers side) would require a left hand thread. It did not. The tool kit includes both left and right hand threads. For $29 a right hand thread is all that is needed. I first purchased the little cube. This proved way too akward and required a third hand. (i tried duct tape to hold the caliper still). the tool kit from harbor freight sure made the brake job a lot easier. snap on wants over $200 for their kit and it doesn't include a left hand thread.
18 Piece Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit
Item #97143 :$44.99
Caliper Tool Set for Disc Brakes
Item #40732 :$29.99
|06-06-2010 05:09 PM|
I bought the little cube tool with the nubs on it, and had to make some modifications. The surface with the right spacing had four nubs and I only needed two, so I ground off one diagonal pair. After that it could get a good grip on the two slots in the piston.
I then proceeded to break the piston loose and turn it with the tool - many times, and it did not seem to go in. I finally went back to the standard C-clamp, and found that as I turned the clamp screw it got a grip on the (now loose) piston face, and rotated the piston and pushed it in at the same time.
I think the best tool would be a C-clamp with the nub tool on the face of it so that it got a very good grip on the piston. This would allow you to turn the piston and put pressure on it at the same time. However, even the Ford tool shown in my shop manual seems to rely on hand pressure to push in the piston.
|06-04-2010 09:43 PM|
|matt167||b4 I had the tool, I could do it with 1 person holding the caliper and 2 screw drivers.. tool does work and makes it faster, but still requires that second person|
|06-04-2010 06:24 PM|
|06-04-2010 05:43 PM|
Compress Mustang rear disc brake caliper piston
The rear disc brakes on my 2005 Mustang GT use a caliper where the piston has to be turned as it is compressed to allow space for the new pads.
I tried doing it by hand with a needle nose pliers, but could not get enough leverage to turn and push in the piston at the same time. The notches in the piston that are used for leverage to turn it are not very big.
I bought a universal tool at the parts store that looks like a little cube with nubs on its. The nubs are supposed to fit the notches in the piston, and you use a 3/8" socket extension to push and turn it. However, I'm not sure the cheap tool will get a good grip on the notches in the piston, and I will need three hands to hold the caliper, turn the piston, and compress the piston all at the same time.
Is this the right method, or have I missed something? A standard C-clamp will not work, because there is no way to turn the piston as it is compressed.