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twin turbo sbc 383 help

26K views 117 replies 18 participants last post by  cobalt327 
#1 ·
Hi, Im new to the forums here... Anyways my father in law gave me a smoked 355 to tinker with (blown head gasket and 4 spun rod bearings). Well the problem is I have never built a muscle motor before, I was all about the imports. My first thought to do with this motor was just build a simple 383 since all the work to the block has already been done. Although after doing some research I want to mix the import and muscle into one motor, example being variable lifters wich from my understanding would basically make whatever heads I bolt to this beast act as vtec heads, I think that would be pretty cool... As far as the build I am lost. So what Im asking for is a parts list of what Ill need.. Also this motor will be going into an 89 iroc z with the tpi (port and polish of course).

I know I need 2.02 heads, brand ????? 3.75 forged crank, 5.7 or 6.0 rods? inverted dome pistons or flat top?

I need some help here, I used to taking ka24's, sr20's, b16+18's, h2xa's and just slapping forged internals in them. Port and polishing the heads, high flow exhausts, and running 15-20 psi of boost through them.

My goal for this build is 1000+ hp, with twin 68mm turbos running at 1 bar of boost (14.7)...
 
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#78 ·
majorownage said:
2 bolt mains dont have enough area to keep cap walk from happening.

i dont say this...Nelson from nelson racing engines says this...
Don't drag others into your **** fest. Tell me, dw- what fitting 4-bolt splayed caps onto a 2-bolt block has to do w/the amount of area that a 2-bolt cap has? You have NO clue.

And, yes- not knowing something as BASIC as cylinder wall lubrication puts you at the bottom rung, knowledge-wise.
 
#79 ·
majorownage said:
2 bolt mains dont have enough area to keep cap walk from happening.

i dont say this...Nelson from nelson racing engines says this...

just because i asked a question about oiling does not mean i am ignorant.

What they are talking about is companies are manufacturing 2 bolt 350 blocks, and cross drilling into the main webs to convert it to 4 bolt. Yes everyone knows that an angle is stronger than a straight line, thats why they are doing this.
 
#81 ·
bipolar_camaro said:
What they are talking about is companies are manufacturing 2 bolt 350 blocks, and cross drilling into the main webs to convert it to 4 bolt. Yes everyone knows that an angle is stronger than a straight line, thats why they are doing this.
I hope what you meant to say, is companies make 4-bolt caps to use on production 2-bolt blocks. No one I know of in the aftermarket makes a 2-bolt block.

If just ONE post could be made by you or majoroweage that wasn't just full of errors...
 
#86 ·
cobalt327 said:
I hope what you meant to say, is companies make 4-bolt caps to use on production 2-bolt blocks. No one I know of in the aftermarket makes a 2-bolt block.

If just ONE post could be made by you or majoroweage that wasn't just full of errors...

please point out one of my posts that was in error. *most* of my information has been sourced from others.
 
#87 ·
cobalt327 said:
I hope what you meant to say, is companies make 4-bolt caps to use on production 2-bolt blocks. No one I know of in the aftermarket makes a 2-bolt block.

If just ONE post could be made by you or majoroweage that wasn't just full of errors...
Yes that is what i ment to say.

And you sir are exactly the prime example of the reason Im not even sure i want to get into building muscle cars. Maybe its your way of trying to "help", but flipping around and making everyone feel "underqualified" to even pick up a wrench is not help my friend.
 
#88 ·
majorownage said:
please point out one of my posts that was in error. *most* of my information has been sourced from others.
Every post where you keep churning the **** by telling this guy to "go for it" "it can be done w/enough money", etc. Easy for YOU to say, being as how you have ZERO invested in this, except to incite things.

Again, so what does this guy recommend?
 
#90 ·
bipolar_camaro said:
Yes that is what i ment to say.

And you sir are exactly the prime example of the reason Im not even sure i want to get into building muscle cars. Maybe its your way of trying to "help", but flipping around and making everyone feel "underqualified" to even pick up a wrench is not help my friend.
YOU, my friend, are the one who jumped up on a soap box proclaiming to one and all that you were gonna do this, gonna do that, and telling me and anyone else who dared to question you, that basically we were all wrong- all "haters" (w/no help, you being egged on by this majoroweage piece of... work), and that you could do anything you damned well pleased, physics and common sense be damned.

If, instead, you'd have come on here and asked questions instead of making grandiose statements, your reception (from ME, at least) would have been MUCH different.
 
#91 ·
even if the engine was built and everything went good. if you are talking 1000hp at the rear wheels of an f body it would literally snap in half. there is to much twist in this setup, tieing things in would help but not sure it would hold together. do you have an unlimited budget and this is just something to play with? because you know its going to cost a rediculas amount of money to have anything strength match the 1000hp at the tires. and i dont think the f-body is a good choice.
 
#92 ·
cobalt327 said:
YOU, my friend, are the one who jumped up on a soap box proclaiming to one and all that you were gonna do this, gonna do that, and telling me and anyone else who dared to question you, that basically we were all wrong- all "haters" (w/no help, you being egged on by this majoroweage piece of... work), and that you could do anything you damned well pleased, physics and common sense be damned.

If, instead, you'd have come on here and asked questions instead of making grandiose statements, your reception (from ME, at least) would have been MUCH different.

alright, well if i have been in error anywhere in the post, please notify me. All my information has been correct to my knowledge, and most of it sourced.
 
#93 ·
majorownage said:
Arp hardware and 2 bolt studs. He says the caps have more area to contact the block, and are therefore more stable and less likely to walk. With two more extra holes in the caps, there is just not enough contact area between the block and the cap.
With a splayed 4-bolt cap, the register for the cap is lengthened to provide more surface area than what a 2-bolt cap has. The register is lengthened the same amount that the 4-bolt splayed cap is longer, in other words.

While using ANY OEM block for high HP builds is risky, I don't see a stud and 2-bolt cap comparing favorably to a splayed 4-bolt studded cap.

Now, if you were talking about a 400 SBC...
 
#94 ·
cobalt327 said:
With a splayed 4-bolt cap, the register for the cap is lengthened to provide more surface area than what a 2-bolt cap has. The register is lengthened the same amount that the 4-bolt splayed cap is longer, in other words.

While using ANY OEM block for high HP builds is risky, I don't see a stud and 2-bolt cap comparing favorably to a splayed 4-bolt studded cap.

Now, if you were talking about a 400 SBC...
Hey im just relaying info I learned from Nelson...he's a pretty cool dude. Check out his youtube channel. Very informative
 
#95 · (Edited)
Originally Posted by bipolar_camaro
Yes that is what i ment to say.

And you sir are exactly the prime example of the reason Im not even sure i want to get into building muscle cars. Maybe its your way of trying to "help", but flipping around and making everyone feel "underqualified" to even pick up a wrench is not help my friend.
Originally Posted by cobalt327
YOU, my friend, are the one who jumped up on a soap box proclaiming to one and all that you were gonna do this, gonna do that, and telling me and anyone else who dared to question you, that basically we were all wrong- all "haters" (w/no help, you being egged on by this majoroweage piece of... work), and that you could do anything you damned well pleased, physics and common sense be damned.

If, instead, you'd have come on here and asked questions instead of making grandiose statements, your reception (from ME, at least) would have been MUCH different.
majorownage said:
alright, well if i have been in error anywhere in the post, please notify me. All my information has been correct to my knowledge, and most of it sourced.
You nitwit- you're quoting a response I made to the OTHER GUY!!! Post #90.

YOU have zero credibility, Mr. "How Does a Cylinder Wall Get Oil On It". lol
 
#96 ·
majorownage said:
alright, well if i have been in error anywhere in the post, please notify me. All my information has been correct to my knowledge, and most of it sourced.
If you want to avoid having your *** handed to you so much, type NOTHING unless you actually know what you're talking about. Google experts don't have any credibility here, either.
 
#97 ·
This is just such a train wreck I just can't get enough.

With that being said, you may not like what Cobalt is saying. But he knows what he's talking about. The worst thing about building a motor is when it pops and you weren't even listening to the advice given. Or don't ask if you don't want to hear the answer.

Good luck though...
 
#99 ·
majorownage said:
Hey im just relaying info I learned from Nelson...he's a pretty cool dude. Check out his youtube channel. Very informative
There is a large chasm between having "learned" something, and having "parroted" something you saw or read somewhere.

The acid test is having done something or having enough independent confirmation of a "fact" to provide you w/enough info to make an educated guess. One guy saying something does not constitute much of anything. IMO. If that were the case, anyone saying anything would suddenly be a 'fact", and we all know that ain't the way it works.

If you'd like, start a separate thread on the pluses and minuses of splayed 4-bolt caps on a 2-bolt block vs. a studded two bolt block. I, for one, would be interested in seeing the outcome.
 
#100 ·
cobalt327 said:
It's not that it's not possible- it's that it's beyond my experience.
cobalt327 said:
YOU, my friend, are the one who jumped up on a soap box proclaiming to one and all that you were gonna do this, gonna do that, and telling me and anyone else who dared to question you, that basically we were all wrong- all "haters" (w/no help, you being egged on by this majoroweage piece of... work), and that you could do anything you damned well pleased, physics and common sense be damned.

If, instead, you'd have come on here and asked questions instead of making grandiose statements, your reception (from ME, at least) would have been MUCH different.
Beyond your experience, and yet still telling me I cant do this, basically Im an idiot. I admit I do not know much about small blocks, big blocks, what have you. I know Im going in the wrong direction with this build. When deciding on how I wanted to build this motor I was reading all kinds of articles of TT 383 being done on 4 bolt mains. To my knowledge of building import motors that wasnt of much concern as long as you kept boost levels low, and compression low. So here I am to apologize for wasting yours and other peoples time with this thread. Im just looking for help on building my first "muscle car", and I know I have a great base for the motor build itself. 1000hp is a little dreamy but maybe after a few more years I can concentrate on that build. As for now, I need help/advice on how to piece together a decent motor...
 
#101 ·
bipolar_camaro said:
1000hp is a little dreamy but maybe after a few more years I can concentrate on that build. As for now, I need help/advice on how to piece together a decent motor...
There ya go. Now we can get somewhere with this thread. I would shoot for around 600-650 with your 4 bolt block. Some people would push it to 700-750hp. Maybe you want to as you said this is a see if it works kinda thing. Vortec heads will do this with boost. Get a custom ground cam and a better efi intake. This thing will scream
 
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