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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-13-2012 10:04 AM
J-gregs First time posting here, but great write up. Im constantly buying spray paint for bikes, motorcycles, engine bays, car parts, BBQs, you name it. I recently got the cahones to buy a decent compressor and el cheapo gun from harbor and decided to paint an old Schwin with the nason silver and victory red. Even with the gun I probably could have bought a new bike from Wally World for the amount of money I spent on paint, but I think the finished product looks better and now I have 1 more skill to add to my belt. I have a 67 firebird I've been slowly restoring and thanks to the advice on here I'm not completely scared of one day trying to paint it myself. Thanks guys!
07-16-2010 09:06 PM
deadbodyman Some pics would be nice...
07-16-2010 07:28 AM
freethinker52
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
and some colors are really bad at covering ,(did you use a sealer???) but all in all their base usually covers in three coats,so it really is cheaper than chroma base especially by the gallon ,wait till you paint something red, even nason will seem expensive..
their clear is so so, SPI is way better and runs about the same price..
Nason 2k primer is pretty good also...but their epoxy gets a low grade I dont care much for it at all...again SPI is the one I found is the best deal..
it was gm victory red color. it took me four coats of base and 2 coats of clear. 3 to cover and one more. doing the job i did with a color change and the car in pieces doing jambs and all it took 2 full gallons of base and 2 gallons of clear. materials were close to $800 bucks.
i am happy with the results considering that even though i did a lot of rebuilders when i was younger i havent painted a car in 20 years. i will post some pictures when i figure out how to do it.
07-16-2010 04:42 AM
deadbodyman and some colors are really bad at covering ,(did you use a sealer???) but all in all their base usually covers in three coats,so it really is cheaper than chroma base especially by the gallon ,wait till you paint something red, even nason will seem expensive..
their clear is so so, SPI is way better and runs about the same price..
Nason 2k primer is pretty good also...but their epoxy gets a low grade I dont care much for it at all...again SPI is the one I found is the best deal..
07-15-2010 09:11 AM
freethinker52 ok. the car is done. i made no other changes than to do the second clearcoat within 10 min and it came out perfect. i was able to wet sand the areas that lifted and reshoot clear. they also came out perfect.

a few comments on nason paint. i dont have much experience with bccc since i have always used ss in the past but imho nason fullbase is an excellent product to use. i dont think its really cheaper to use though because it takes a lot to get coverage.

thanks to all who gave me advice.
07-14-2010 06:17 AM
deadbodyman Its ready to sand...I think you'll be ok this time...heres a way to see if you have any water first drain your tank.then let it build up to max pressure crank your regulators up to wide open,stick an air nipple in the hose and let her rip if theres any water you'll see it or hold the nipple against some glass about a 1/4" that'll show you too.

BTW,I never leave the booth when I'm clearing it only takes two coats ,in this heat theres only a 5 minute wait between coats..
07-14-2010 05:59 AM
freethinker52
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
clear drys differntly under different conditions so the way I know when to apply the next coat is to touch the paper where the clear hit it should be slightly tacky but not dry and not wet to where it will slide or make strings wnen you lift your finger off ...bubbles are a whole differnt problem then lifting,without any pics I would try to lightly sand them out with 600 and then lightly scuff the entire panel with 600....This wont work if the base is lifting but if its just the clear it should work. since it sounds like a water problem ,do you have any filters from your compressor to the gun??? even a small 5.00 gun filter might solve the problem...
it was dry enough to run a tack rag over it. it isnt bad enough to show in the pictures. when do you suggest i can sand it. its been about 10 hours now.
yes i have a cooler and then a filter. havent noticed any water.

ps. your pm box is full.
07-14-2010 05:52 AM
deadbodyman clear drys differntly under different conditions so the way I know when to apply the next coat is to touch the paper where the clear hit it should be slightly tacky but not dry and not wet to where it will slide or make strings wnen you lift your finger off ...bubbles are a whole differnt problem then lifting,without any pics I would try to lightly sand them out with 600 and then lightly scuff the entire panel with 600....This wont work if the base is lifting but if its just the clear it should work. since it sounds like a water problem ,do you have any filters from your compressor to the gun??? even a small 5.00 gun filter might solve the problem...
07-14-2010 05:52 AM
freethinker52
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK
If all works out in your favor, you can smooth the spots out with 600-1000 grit wet and not break though the clear and then all you need to do is re-clear.
The problem should stop in first top half of the first coat of clear.
thanks. how long should i wait to sand it? should i let it dry days or hours?
07-14-2010 05:44 AM
BarryK If all works out in your favor, you can smooth the spots out with 600-1000 grit wet and not break though the clear and then all you need to do is re-clear.
The problem should stop in first top half of the first coat of clear.
07-14-2010 05:42 AM
freethinker52
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
"LIFTING" dosn't look like sand its the paint wrinkling under the clear...can you get a pic of it???? is it Nason clear over Nason base??? Same clear on both coats or did you use another brand???
yes it was nason primer and nason paint. everything nason. maybe sand was a bad description. maybe more like tiny bubbles.
07-14-2010 05:38 AM
freethinker52 ok i think it is true that i waited too long. it was probably close to an hour on some of it. i have the car in pieces.
i got up this am and shot the hood waiting only 5 min between coats. it came out perfect.
now the question is how do i handle the bad parts. i will have to wet sand the clear and reshoot them. hopefully the base color will be ok. how long do i wait to sand and reshoot? thanks for the help.
07-14-2010 05:26 AM
deadbodyman "LIFTING" dosn't look like sand its the paint wrinkling under the clear...can you get a pic of it???? is it Nason clear over Nason base??? Same clear on both coats or did you use another brand???
07-14-2010 03:52 AM
BarryK You waited to long between coats and the clear started to sensitize, perhaps if it was a true 30 minutes, this may be unusual but air temp and humidity will affect the 30 minutes and little things like water on the floor if humidity is already high can also accelerate the clear.
07-13-2010 10:21 PM
freethinker52
nason clear problem

hi i have a problem that i need advice on. i am painting a car with nason fullbase. i got the base on perfectly. looked nice and smooth with 4 coats. i waited 2 hours and put one coat of clear on with slow acivator since it was 81 degrees here today. the first coat looked beautiful. after about 30 min i put the second coat on and after about 15 min it started lifting in spots. it looks like sand in the paint. what do you think is going on? is it possible i didnt wait long enough or too long between coats. the tech sheet says 7 to 10 min. i thought that was minimum time up to 24 hours.
i have only done the fenders and doors. going to wait until tomorrow to finish hoping that when its dryer it will work. here is another site i found that indicates i might have waited too long between clear coats. any ideas? thanks.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show....php?p=2904023

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