|07-25-2010 08:13 PM|
|chevykid90||i made sure i did everything with the break in procedures and primed the oil. when i first put in the dis i had to have it pointed 90 degrees to the driver side so when it reached the bottom it was pointed to the #1 point. just in the begining when i turned it i didnt advance it enough and when i tried to get the timing right i kept retarding it, i though i was too advanced but it turns out i was way to retarded. (not me the dis. lol) but i could be a little bit too. haha|
|07-25-2010 04:29 PM|
[QUOTE=66GMC] (I call it "Betty Crocker meets Stewart Warner"! LOL)
Now there's a guy who's not afraid to tell his age!
|07-25-2010 12:19 PM|
|gofastz||heck yeah, everybody needs one of those lol....|
|07-25-2010 11:54 AM|
I actually built myself a little temporary guage panel (complete with ignition switch) that sits right out on the rad support so *I* can keep an eye on the vitals. (I call it "Betty Crocker meets Stewart Warner"! LOL)
|07-25-2010 11:22 AM|
You missed 1 step!
get a friend that hasn't had any beer or alcohol yet (early in the morning usually works) to turn key and monitor gauges. Ask me how I figured that one out!
|07-25-2010 10:50 AM|
There's a bit of an issue with the "#1 @ TDC, point the rotor to #1" method.
You have to account for (anticipate) the helical cut on the cam / distributor drive gear. Plunking the dizzy in when it's aligned at the top of the helix will result in having to twist it a fair bit to be aligned when it's completely seated and clamped.
This is how I do static timing.
If this is "engine break-in", please ensure that you have adequately pre-lubed the engine by spinning up the oil pump to the point of having oil coming out of the top ends of every pushrod. If you've got an electric fuel pump, check fuel delivery (volume and pressure) and float levels. If you've got a mechanical fuel pump, hopefully you've checked the float levels via the "dry float" method, and have a squirt bottle handy to provide fuel for start-up.
1.) Make sure that you're on #1 compression stroke (both valves closed) and check that by using your thumb over the hole. (coil disconnected)
2.) Check the position of the rotor in the "dist fully seated, clamped loosely, balancer at 0° TDC" mode.
3.) Align the balancer to about 8° BTDC
4.) Reconnect the coil's 12V power supply
5.) With the #1 plug still out, and laying someplace where it has a good gound ... rotate the cap until it sparks. Repeat a couple of times, rotating the cap as slowly as possible, so that you get a real feel for the best position.
6.) Tighten the dist clamp to the point that it takes a bit of effort to move the cap.
7.) Reinstall and tighten the spark plug.
8.) IF this is engine break-in, proceed directly to "Fire it up" and keep it running in the 1500 to 2500 RPM range. Adjust the timing "by ear" in order to keep it running smoothly without laboring. Those first few minutes can be the deciding factor as to whether or not your flat-tappet cam will live or die.
After cam break in: Start over at step #1 and omit step #8.
9.) Disconnect the vac advance hose and plug it.
10.) Hook up the timing light.
11.) fire it up
12.) Check your base timing, and adjust if nessecary. (It should be pretty close if you haven't fiddled with the dist much.)
13.) At this point you could do a variety of checks. Total centrifugal advance would be a good one.
14.) Reconnect the vacuum advance, fine-tune carb idle mixture and speed for best vacuum ... etc.
15.) Disconnect the timing light and vacuum guage and stow them away while the engine warms up.
16.) Assuming that all the vitals look good ... Slam the hood and go for a test drive!
|07-25-2010 10:37 AM|
I once had a Nitrous car explode on my Dyno...We did a pull and all was fine, but didnt realize the Nitrous solenoid was stuck opened causing nitrous and fuel to puddle up in the manifold. (it was a Zex kit, junk never use them please!!) and when we restarted the car...BOOM!!! It imbedded parts of the manifold in my Ceiling, took out my monitor, dented the hood of the car and did about $8000 worth of damage to the car..It was a fuel injected Import by the way..
Thank GOD my buddy was not under the hood at the time, he would have been seriously injured..
The stuff we do is far more dangerous than we realize..
|07-25-2010 10:34 AM|
|sqzbox||When you say turned back 1/4 in. was that clock wise? counter clock wise advances the timing. Oops! glad you got her going.|
|07-25-2010 09:42 AM|
what i did was put just the #1 wire and plug on and and just kinda flicked the dis. until the plug sparked. then once it sparked i turned it back a quarter inch, not a quarter turn. but it also could be that i am using a HEI dis and have never set timing with one. it had to be turned way advanced, and it is a vacuum advance.
and yes Cobalt at one point i did think i was going to lose my eyebrows. lol
|07-25-2010 12:49 AM|
|Torque454||Theres alot of room to turn one on a big block... I think i have problems hitting the vacuum fitting on the back of the intake tho, but then again thats the vac advance hitting it.|
|07-24-2010 11:12 PM|
|sqzbox||It seems to me he didn't get #1 cable on the right tower after dropping the dist. in at TDC. Being he turned it 1/4 turn (90*) should prove that. Must not be vacuum advance dist. or the can would hit something like the back of the intake or carb. unless there's more room on a BB than a SB. I can't turn mine 90* on my SB in my truck. What do you think?|
|07-24-2010 11:11 PM|
Watch this video and keep it handy for next time.
|07-24-2010 10:15 PM|
|Torque454||When i first start up an engine after re-timing it using the correct procedure (#1 @ TDC, rotor pointing to #1 tower on cap) i always have to point the freggin thing almost all the way over to get it to start and run correctly. Theoretically that would be way out of time, but it doesn't show it with a light. Doesn't make any sense to me. lol.|
|07-24-2010 09:47 PM|
|07-24-2010 09:37 PM|
|gofastz||hmmm, yeah the valve lash is out bad, the way i do mine is to have someone bump it over for you, and watch the rockers, one is down or bottomed out the one beside it is closed, so adjust it til you cant wiggle the rocker by hand, and do the rest the same, and be sure that you can twist the pushrod, that will get you close, then after the 20 min run let the engine cool so you can take the rocker cover off and then set the lash with the engine running, set to a 1/4 turn after the rocker stops tapping.........|
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