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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> The Ospho Solution..(rust removal)
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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 11:28 AM
67Elcamino DeadBodyman, My concern now if how I can get rid of the minor black freckles left on the paint. I was hoping that these spots, which were there before the ospho treatment, were already there. Theyre a PITA to take off and was hoping I didnt have to grind them off the entire car?

Any opinion on this? Im I over thinking this?
Yesterday 02:58 PM
deadbodyman yes, sometimes I do ,sometimes just 80. I tend to work through the grits when prepping bare metal. once it starts shining and getting super clean I have a hard time stopping But I use epoxy for everything, over my filler work and as a sealer when I need one.its a self etching primer too, so it sticks great to unsanded metal as well .theres really no need for any other primers ,SPI epoxy is all I use 95% of the time
Yesterday 11:03 AM
Chevymon
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I prefer sanding it off ,starting with 80 then 180 and finally 320 all dry sanded with a DA..
I've had great success with it for many years with no problems at all.....
Mike, are you spraying epoxy over 320 grit scratches on bare metal?
04-23-2015 05:23 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Can someone briefly summarize this thread for me?
So should I use Ospho or not?

Im leaning to using it based on this.. Also using SPI Epoxy

https://youtu.be/-yA8q4K-_Bo
I'll try...converting rust is never a good idea no matter what the product claims....
Theres many ways to "remove" rust,Ospho is one of them without the mess of media blasting.
Ospho has some advantages over other methods like removing rust on a running and driving car because you don't have to worry about the glass and sand getting into the motor and other moving parts ,causing problems down the road.
If you use Ospho be sure to remove the protective coating that keeps the metal from rusting....
theres two ways to remove the coating when your ready to prime. 1) thuroly sand it off or 2) rewet with more ospho and rince off while its wet. I prefer sanding it off ,starting with 80 then 180 and finally 320 all dry sanded with a DA.. and a wire wheel on the pitted rust ,slowly with a coarse wheel as not to polish the surface.
So far SPI epoxy primer works best so its a great combo...
when done properly there are no adheasion problems BUT it does have to be done properly if not you WILL have problems so "yes" use it but use it properly. I've had great success with it for many years with no problems at all.....
04-22-2015 02:32 PM
shine i think you need to watch the beginning of the video again .
04-22-2015 02:19 PM
67Elcamino Can someone briefly summarize this thread for me?
So should I use Ospho or not?

Im leaning to using it based on this.. Also using SPI Epoxy

https://youtu.be/-yA8q4K-_Bo
11-17-2014 06:48 PM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I thought I got kicked off the site again...

You didn't get the boot yet.
They're back now.
11-17-2014 11:12 AM
deadbodyman I thought I got kicked off the site again...
11-17-2014 08:13 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
If there is black anywhere, there is rust.
I used a product that claimed to turn the rust into iron something or other. It claimed you could paint over it. The paint on my truck is now fubarred.

What I do now is I use the acid as a rust "finder". Hit the black spots with a wire wheel and then apply some more. The black spots will be smaller each time. When it can be applied and there are no more black spots, the rust is gone.

Scape a bit of the black layer away and see if there is rust directly below the surface.


Here's what happens when you leave the black:













This is how it needs to be so there are no future problems:
I had to use a mini sandblaster to git it all out of the pits.




Looks like my pics went AWOL.
11-17-2014 06:39 AM
DanielC I use one of these small wire wheels in a reversable drill.


There are larger wire wheels, but I think they do not get into the bottom of rust pits as well. After using the wire wheel, for a while, the bristles lean over, away from the directionn of rotation, and reversing the direction of rotation, the bristles dig in a little better. Slow speeds seem to work work better for me, also.
11-17-2014 05:50 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
I began using Deadbodyman's technique for Ospho rust treatment on a surfaced rusted car that I will be working on in about 2-3 months. Just wanted to slow down the rust as much as possible. As I sprayed Ospho and cleaned up the surface rust I noticed some dark black spots on the metal. Do these need to come off before I Epoxy over the ,metal? Or does the fact that they are black mean that the rust has neutrealized? FYI; these blackish spots where there before I used the Ospho process
Thats normal to see (age spots) (freckles) they should sand or spot blast right out...coarse wire cup...You see it a lot under the lacquer paints...
11-17-2014 03:57 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Lizer, I should of clarified a bit more. I noticed the spots there before but they were not black like they appeared after the Ospho treatment. They were somewhat of a darker rust color before
If there is black anywhere, there is rust.
I used a product that claimed to turn the rust into iron something or other. It claimed you could paint over it. The paint on my truck is now fubarred.

What I do now is I use the acid as a rust "finder". Hit the black spots with a wire wheel and then apply some more. The black spots will be smaller each time. When it can be applied and there are no more black spots, the rust is gone.

Scape a bit of the black layer away and see if there is rust directly below the surface.


Here's what happens when you leave the black:













This is how it needs to be so there are no future problems:
I had to use a mini sandblaster to git it all out of the pits.



11-16-2014 10:56 PM
67Elcamino
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
if the spots were there before you even used Ospho, then how would logic dictate that they were neutralized?
Lizer, I should of clarified a bit more. I noticed the spots there before but they were not black like they appeared after the Ospho treatment. They were somewhat of a darker rust color before
11-16-2014 08:44 PM
Lizer if the spots were there before you even used Ospho, then how would logic dictate that they were neutralized?
11-16-2014 08:04 PM
67Elcamino I began using Deadbodyman's technique for Ospho rust treatment on a surfaced rusted car that I will be working on in about 2-3 months. Just wanted to slow down the rust as much as possible. As I sprayed Ospho and cleaned up the surface rust I noticed some dark black spots on the metal. Do these need to come off before I Epoxy over the ,metal? Or does the fact that they are black mean that the rust has neutrealized? FYI; these blackish spots where there before I used the Ospho process
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