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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-13-2014 01:35 PM
deadbodyman How do you rince it Shine? with just a damp rag or lots of water? I always sand the coating off but this sounds like it may be a good way too...
I have another question .....I stripped my camaro fenders to the metal and since there wasnt any rust at all and I was rushing, I was going skip matal prep with ospho but its been very hot and I kept getting sweat dripping on the metal and my sweaty tee shirt always rubbing on it when I'm not paying attention, leaving rust spots after a few hours do you think I could sand the rust spots out and prime it or will the rust come back if I dont do something after sanding...You must have the same trouble keeping sweat off the bare metal I always wear gloves but my sweaty forearm hits it or my soaking wet shirt...what do you do ? other than getting A/C in the shop...I know your against using acid and I thought of you when I was doing this without the acid and thought I'd ask....
07-13-2014 01:15 PM
shine you left acid residue on the panel to dry . this is exactly what the paint mfg tell you not to do. clean and etch with it but rinse it off while wet if your about to paint. if your storing for long term metal work leave it. but reapply and rinse before paint .
07-13-2014 01:06 PM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?
This is a perfect example of bad adheasion and I would love to help you out and get it working right, its the whole reason I started this thread.If you dont mind I'd like to use you as an example and get you straightend out if your up for it....
07-13-2014 05:42 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
One more thought. Maybe the thing that is misleading folks is Mike saying to treat the panel and it will not rust back. That is because of the residue that protects the panel. Never has anyone said it is advisable to just pick the panel up and paint it without properly preparing it.

OK, I am back out of this.

John
As a matter of fact ,John I've warned against doing this over and over and its still the #1 mistake people make...I also warned over and over to check adheasion of the epoxy BEFORE going any further...
any idiot can remove rust and get clean metal with the stuff or use it to keep the metal from rusting, its AFTER that where the problems start...and its also THE reason for this thread...To use ospho sucessfully...as I do and many ,many others do....
Well ok, Its really All the fame and fortune,helping others has nothing to do with it...
07-13-2014 05:23 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?
somehow I missed this...This is exactly why I started this thread...you missed an important step...explain what you did after the ospho dried 24hrs before you primed ....I know what happened but I want to hear it so I can explain the importance of prepping the ospho for primer....You cant just prime it after it dries...theres a protective film there...
07-13-2014 05:11 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
Then you have no credibility. That statement right there tells everyone you don't know what you are talking about.
Blasting and epoxy prime is the best way to go.

Rust rare in Texas???? Shows you don't know about that too.
You didnt answear my question how do YOU fix rust on running driving cars?
07-12-2014 05:49 AM
shine from the first page

All I've ever used has been Ospho.I've never rinsed it off or touched it with water I just let it dry.the heavier spots where you see the streaks stay tacky longer than the rest and if you were to prime over them while tacky, I'm sure there would be problems.
When I'm ready to prime, I just sand with a da or scuff pad and wipe off with wax & grease remover.I'm pretty sure I'll be priming tomorrow so you'll see the whole process.
07-11-2014 08:52 PM
blazintowers I for one am also grateful this thread IS STILL ACTIVE! JEEZ, why close and archive away such a plethora of knowledge??? I went to google searching for rust solutions on my 65 chev, and found this site. Its been great and very informative reading this entire thread over the last week in between the hours I spend out back working in the shade on my project. I feel a lot more comfortable now using a little ospho in those inconspicuous and hard to reach areas, mostly inside of the quarters and interior roof panel, oh and also the under side of the trunk deck and package tray. Car was rot free until the previous owner had a leak in his garage and it dripped on the rear window for years without repair...
07-11-2014 06:22 PM
John long One more thought. Maybe the thing that is misleading folks is Mike saying to treat the panel and it will not rust back. That is because of the residue that protects the panel. Never has anyone said it is advisable to just pick the panel up and paint it without properly preparing it.

OK, I am back out of this.

John
07-11-2014 06:18 PM
John long I have never used Ospho and do not have any basis to judge it. But.....DeadBodyMan (Mike) has always advised to wipe of all excess after treating BEFORE it dries. Then retreating and washing panel before painting to remove the acid. He also advises sanding the area with a DA with 80 grit for a good tooth. As Shine says, Once the panel is retreated to eliminate any acid residue and then washed with water the acid is no longer an issue.

It concerns me when I hear people say somebody's idea does not work when they have not done it his way.

Bottom line is, any acid residue left on a panel will have a negative effect on adhesion.

John
07-11-2014 05:44 PM
Chevymon
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Hello Roger, I actually have found Deadbodyman's posts quite informative. I think anyone reading these types of post would understand that these are just one mans opinions and should test everything that is advised to them themselves..
Im doing a test sample on my panels and do agree that if the treated area does not adhere the Epoxy primer as well as the untreated I will definitely be going without it.
It wouldn't be a test of DBM's system if he follows paint Manufacturers recommendations.
07-11-2014 02:14 PM
shine i would suggest you follow your paint mfg recommendations .
07-11-2014 01:35 PM
Chevymon
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?
Did you put a scratch on the metal? I use 80 grit DA after the metal dries. I think DBM stresses that you have to follow HIS instruction, if you are using HIS system.
07-11-2014 01:02 PM
shine rinse the acid well and it is not a factor .
07-11-2014 12:21 PM
67Elcamino
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northstar T View Post
Nasty looking.
how long did the ospho dry before being sprayed?
did you also spray an untreated panel to test under the same conditions?
When I sanded with 80 grit I didnt see the smooth sanding edge that I expected when I sand primer thats been over metal for years. Not as bad looking as the picture with the scratch but enough to make me reconsider using the Ospho product.
Just yesterday I sprayed the same Epoxy primer over an untreated bare metal piece. I will wait a week and then do the same scratch test. I will post some pics later in the week.
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