Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> The Ospho Solution..(rust removal)
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: The Ospho Solution..(rust removal) Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 02:14 PM
shine i would suggest you follow your paint mfg recommendations .
Today 01:35 PM
Chevymon
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?
Did you put a scratch on the metal? I use 80 grit DA after the metal dries. I think DBM stresses that you have to follow HIS instruction, if you are using HIS system.
Today 01:02 PM
shine rinse the acid well and it is not a factor .
Today 12:21 PM
67Elcamino
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northstar T View Post
Nasty looking.
how long did the ospho dry before being sprayed?
did you also spray an untreated panel to test under the same conditions?
When I sanded with 80 grit I didnt see the smooth sanding edge that I expected when I sand primer thats been over metal for years. Not as bad looking as the picture with the scratch but enough to make me reconsider using the Ospho product.
Just yesterday I sprayed the same Epoxy primer over an untreated bare metal piece. I will wait a week and then do the same scratch test. I will post some pics later in the week.
Today 11:57 AM
Northstar T
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?
Nasty looking.
how long did the ospho dry before being sprayed?
did you also spray an untreated panel to test under the same conditions?
Today 10:35 AM
67Elcamino Metal prepped with Ospho, wiped clean as instructed on bottle. SPI Epoxy let dry for over a week and scrapped it with a small screwedriver. Doesnt look promising does it?
Today 09:26 AM
67Elcamino Hello Roger, I actually have found Deadbodyman's posts quite informative. I think anyone reading these types of post would understand that these are just one mans opinions and should test everything that is advised to them themselves.. That is the beauty of these type of forums forthe most part unbiased opinions.
I am located in hot, dry, sunny Southern California and only do minor bodywork and paint as a hobby and most of the work from home. I dont quite hear as many people at local car shows etc.. talking about using Ospho or any type of rust neutrealizing chemicals on recently sanded or blasted metals. I think people that are inquiring about it are those who need to leave the bare metal exposed for long periods of time.
Im doing a test sample on my panels and do agree that if the treated area does not adhere the Epoxy primer as well as the untreated I will definitely be going without it.
Today 07:17 AM
roger1 Here's a quote of what I said about this thread back in August of 2010:

"You have found something that works for you. That's great. And, you've shared that here. Fine again. But it's another thing to keep pushing your position over and over again here to strongly influence others to use a practice that is not a recommended or generally accepted one. Especially since this site gets a lot of novice people that just stop by occasionally for advice and may leave thinking that your way is the accepted way. I think that is wrong."

Here's is Jon's reply to that:

"I think that roger1's last paragraph above is a fair, reasonable, and accurate statement. The red carpet has been rolled out for you to document a controversial practice whose use runs against the recommendations of the bulk of the professionals on this forum (among whose ranks I will happily include you as well).

There are multiple threads on this topic, with multiple consecutive posts by you. There is a wiki article I made for you, that shows up on the first page in Google when searching for "Ospho". There are photos. There are videos. Your perspective on the use of Ospho will be received by many people, for years to come. I think it's a great example of how we give equal voice to opposing viewpoints.

Nevertheless, while I think it's important to give a voice to controversial viewpoints, I don't think it's acceptable to give that voice a loudspeaker and a podium. Your position is being pushed too aggressively, and in a manner that does not adequately share the stage with the opposing viewpoint. Please reconsider your communication strategy."


This thread should have been closed long ago.
Today 07:01 AM
roger1
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Blast and prime is NOT an acceptable method for me...
so I dont read the threads concerning them...
Then you have no credibility. That statement right there tells everyone you don't know what you are talking about.
Blasting and epoxy prime is the best way to go.

Rust rare in Texas???? Shows you don't know about that too.
Today 05:57 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
I was concerned about the same issue of spraying Ospho on areas where you cant reach in with a scuff pad or get the Acetone in there to remove and/or neutralize the excess Ospho. Ive heard that leaving excess ospho is actually bad for the metal.
Ive used Ospho on a few test panels, followed the instructions on the can (Eastwood Ospho product) but cannot seem to get rid of the slight white haze remaining on the metal. I went ahead and sprayed some epoxy over it and will check for adhesion a week later by scraping with a sharp object and see if the Epoxy flakes off or not.
I dont know anything about Eastwoods, Ospho??? does it say Ospho? if it says to use acitone its not the same. but if theres a whitsh powder that should come right off when you prep the metal with wax and grease remover (not acitone)
once the Ospho dries its just a coating it does NOT continue coroding metal .It sounds like Muratic acid is what your confusing it with....
Today 05:43 AM
deadbodyman Good point ... The reason is, some still seem to think that blasting is some kind of cure for rust..... It isnt...its just ONE way to remove paint and surface rust...it offers nothing against future rust coming back in exactly the same spots..simply encapsulating with epoxy after blasting wont slow it down either. Using Ospho imediately after blasting will get the rust at a microscopic level and really keep it at bay well after your simply blasted and epoxied project has started rusting out again...
But your probably right about not needing it, all the Texas cars I've seen are pretty much rust free but bring your Texas car up north a few hunderd miles and watch that car disentegrate before your eyes...unless you keep it dry and out of the weather ,only driving it on clear days...or in the garage...The problem with not needing something is you only dont need it until realize you do need it ...kinda like that wonderful girl that got away...I remember when everyone said the same thing about epoxy primer its,its not needed ,2k direct to metal is all thats needed...
Heres a question for you...... Your answear may enlighten us...
Lets say you have a running ,driving car with a few rust issues ...you have 20 hrs to do the job so an off frame restoration is out of the question. I'm sure you also know that you cant blast a running driving car.So how would YOU fix the rust....lets say it has rust under the windshield what do YOU do ? I've been at this a long time and I'm always looking to do my job better...

BTW... rust is a redish brown substance that starts out as a spot and grows until there little holes that become big holes in steel....not so common in the great state of Texas but its on most cars on the east coast ,its worse where theres snow.....A white fluffy stuff that falls from the sky and very slippery...
You want to know why this thread is still active after all these years? Rust is the #1 issue with all DIYs and pros alike and doing an acceptable long lasting repair is the first thing those that care about their work want to learn about...
Heres something I've learnd.....I dont need or want to know about using rustolium for paint jobs ....just like
Blast and prime is NOT an acceptable method for me...
so I dont read the threads concerning them...
Yesterday 05:54 PM
roger1 I fail to see why anyone would need this stuff at all. I sure don't and never will. Makes no sense at all.

Blast, epoxy primer and done. End of story.

I really don't understand why moderators don't close this thread either. What else if left to say? Incredible.
Yesterday 05:38 PM
blazintowers I look forward to your reply to see how things go. I guess where there's a will there's a way? some protection has to be better than none at all?
Yesterday 10:04 AM
67Elcamino I was concerned about the same issue of spraying Ospho on areas where you cant reach in with a scuff pad or get the Acetone in there to remove and/or neutralize the excess Ospho. Ive heard that leaving excess ospho is actually bad for the metal.
Ive used Ospho on a few test panels, followed the instructions on the can (Eastwood Ospho product) but cannot seem to get rid of the slight white haze remaining on the metal. I went ahead and sprayed some epoxy over it and will check for adhesion a week later by scraping with a sharp object and see if the Epoxy flakes off or not.
Yesterday 09:14 AM
blazintowers
thanks for the info

Just wanted to say thanks to all the contributors here for taking the time to inform us part timers! actually been restoring cars since 16 but only my own personal stuff. Been looking for a solution for a long time for my rust issues on a 65 chevelle resto project. This may be just what i've been looking for. My main concerns are those hard to reach areas. I had to remove the outer wheel house in the rear 1/4 panel due to rust but once I got my head up in there I can see alot of surface rust on the backside of my quarter panel all the way up to the roof...An impossible area to do much more that just reach your arm up in there and spray some solution. Im hoping I can just spray it and leave it for good? What else can you do when you cant sand or get a wire wheel or sander in there? Are areas like this better to use converter? Thanks for any help!: think I will be around here for a long time....cheers
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.