|Today 05:06 PM|
I've used a rust convertor which is basically the same as Ospho. The instructions state that the black converted rust is ready for primer and paint but it's a bunch of bull.
I ended up using a small spot blaster to get into the pits.
A wire wheel in a grinder or drill may sometimes get it all out.
Apply more acid and if it turns black, you're not finished yet.
Eventually, the acid won't turn anything black anymore and you've got all the rust out.
|Today 11:28 AM|
DeadBodyman, My concern now if how I can get rid of the minor black freckles left on the paint. I was hoping that these spots, which were there before the ospho treatment, were already there. Theyre a PITA to take off and was hoping I didnt have to grind them off the entire car?
Any opinion on this? Im I over thinking this?
|Yesterday 02:58 PM|
|deadbodyman||yes, sometimes I do ,sometimes just 80. I tend to work through the grits when prepping bare metal. once it starts shining and getting super clean I have a hard time stopping But I use epoxy for everything, over my filler work and as a sealer when I need one.its a self etching primer too, so it sticks great to unsanded metal as well .theres really no need for any other primers ,SPI epoxy is all I use 95% of the time|
|Yesterday 11:03 AM|
|04-23-2015 05:23 AM|
Theres many ways to "remove" rust,Ospho is one of them without the mess of media blasting.
Ospho has some advantages over other methods like removing rust on a running and driving car because you don't have to worry about the glass and sand getting into the motor and other moving parts ,causing problems down the road.
If you use Ospho be sure to remove the protective coating that keeps the metal from rusting....
theres two ways to remove the coating when your ready to prime. 1) thuroly sand it off or 2) rewet with more ospho and rince off while its wet. I prefer sanding it off ,starting with 80 then 180 and finally 320 all dry sanded with a DA.. and a wire wheel on the pitted rust ,slowly with a coarse wheel as not to polish the surface.
So far SPI epoxy primer works best so its a great combo...
when done properly there are no adheasion problems BUT it does have to be done properly if not you WILL have problems so "yes" use it but use it properly. I've had great success with it for many years with no problems at all.....
|04-22-2015 02:32 PM|
|shine||i think you need to watch the beginning of the video again .|
|04-22-2015 02:19 PM|
Can someone briefly summarize this thread for me?
So should I use Ospho or not?
Im leaning to using it based on this.. Also using SPI Epoxy
|11-17-2014 06:48 PM|
You didn't get the boot yet.
They're back now.
|11-17-2014 11:12 AM|
|deadbodyman||I thought I got kicked off the site again...|
|11-17-2014 08:13 AM|
Looks like my pics went AWOL.
|11-17-2014 06:39 AM|
I use one of these small wire wheels in a reversable drill.
There are larger wire wheels, but I think they do not get into the bottom of rust pits as well. After using the wire wheel, for a while, the bristles lean over, away from the directionn of rotation, and reversing the direction of rotation, the bristles dig in a little better. Slow speeds seem to work work better for me, also.
|11-17-2014 05:50 AM|
|11-17-2014 03:57 AM|
I used a product that claimed to turn the rust into iron something or other. It claimed you could paint over it. The paint on my truck is now fubarred.
What I do now is I use the acid as a rust "finder". Hit the black spots with a wire wheel and then apply some more. The black spots will be smaller each time. When it can be applied and there are no more black spots, the rust is gone.
Scape a bit of the black layer away and see if there is rust directly below the surface.
Here's what happens when you leave the black:
This is how it needs to be so there are no future problems:
I had to use a mini sandblaster to git it all out of the pits.
|11-16-2014 10:56 PM|
|11-16-2014 08:44 PM|
|Lizer||if the spots were there before you even used Ospho, then how would logic dictate that they were neutralized?|
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