Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> Single stage vs Two Stage vs 50% base/clear
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: Single stage vs Two Stage vs 50% base/clear Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
09-19-2010 06:16 AM
deadbodyman LOL, I'm an expert ....at screwing up....I too like SS urethane with urethane clear....but only with solid colors ...but Like I said before I didnt even know that you could get a high quality SS metalic ...and candies and candy effects take long enough using bases ....Plus a lot of people want it but very few want to pay for all that extra work..
The hot rod culture around here is pretty lame...thats one of the things I miss most about Fla.,,,you cant drive 10-15 min.without seeing a nice car drive by and thats on the way to work...
09-18-2010 10:47 AM
jcclark Don't get me wrong, I'm not against basecoat.
It's all I use in my daily collision repairs.
I love basecoat, it's definetly the easiest one to use.
And it does look great.

I painted cars with lacquer in the 1970's,
then in the 1980's I switched to enamel.
I used clear with both of them at times, other times not.
I went to basecoat in 1990 and have been useing it since.
I have probably screwed up every combination you can think up.
I'm not an expert, but I learn (most times)
For customer cars, it's always basecoat.
I screw it up less often.
But for my own, I really like the way the urethane looked
and holds up.
09-18-2010 06:52 AM
deadbodyman The first pic is the point where it was sold.The hockey stripe wasnt even painted on yet...

second one is one of my favorites it looks like the hood has scoops but its the filters in the ceiling of the booth....it does give me ideas for the hood on the 68 I'm doing...

the others show how hard it is to get a good pics when you have an old POS camera and dont know what your doing .....They never give it justice,,,and you cant see depth...Plus look how ugly I look ,I'm really quite handsome....
and have the body of a GOD.......Budda....
09-18-2010 06:38 AM
deadbodyman Heres the last car I did using BC/CC its solid black (not metalic) with an inter mix (black base mixed with clear) making a transparent middle coat) then two coats of SPI clear .... after all it dried I sanded it all down and let it sit a week then applied two more coats of clear..Sorry no pics I sold the car before it was done and had to rush finishing it up I never even drove it... but pics cant show the depth ...keep in mind these pics only show what it looked like before I sanded it and recleared it...the paint job sold the car. before it was finished...
09-18-2010 06:17 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcclark
I sprayed my SS dryer like a basecoat, the metallic was hard to
control so I sprayed it like a basecoat knowing the clear
would give the gloss back. Made it much easier to control.
Kirker even has an additive just for that, but I didn't use it.

JC..lets see if I can explain this so everyone can understand.(its a real challenge with my 9th grade education and my 3yr old grand daughter playing with the buttons) but here goes...
I agree thats how it would be done if I ever used a SS "METALLIC"
A base coat is much easier and faster do that with "metallics"and takes much less material (mills,thickness)

Basecoat is opaque, it covers in just a few coats.
You don't see through it.
The SS I used took about 12 coats to cover, why?,
Because it's very transparent (it's clear with a color added basically).

Agreed I stated the same thing earier.

It gives a candy look because of the transparent color coats,
that's why candy has more depth, that's why my single stage has
more depth.

agreed


Basecoat can't do that. Not even close.

This is where I dissagree and where a base coat intermix comes in ...it's basicly a clear base coat that you can add the metallic base to to get the transarency.again it drys quick so the metallics stay suspended...its what "tri coats and real candies use and where you put the pearls and what not in..but you make it yourself usually two coats of this ,more if needed...This is where you get the depth with a base coat.
If you put ss metalic or pearls in clear it would be very difficult to control the suspention and eveness most of it will lay down and settle to the bottom of the clear coat loosing the "POP"


Barry did not recommend clearcoating single stage,
he only recommended the procedure on how to.

Theres nothing wrong with clear coating SS it works very well getting depth I also do it ...buy ONLY with Solid colors and top notch paints...doing it with cheaper paints like the Nason I like for regular cars is wasting labor...if I do that much work it has to look the best it possibly can ....

Many restoration shops in the US use single stage with a
clear coat. And their reason is the color and depth.
You'd be surprised at how many show cars are done that way
and you didn't even know it.

like I said I do it too but ONLY with solid color SS

Barry: According to the National Forrestry Agency of the US,
trees are growing more each year than the harvest rate.
At this rate we'll be over run with trees in just a few years (LOL)
So use more paper.
I'm doing my part ,I just took a big dump and use a half a roll off TP .....feels like I just lost 15 lbs

In over view sure you can do an inter mix with a SS paint but why would anyone want too if you can get better results in half the time???
09-17-2010 03:16 PM
jcclark My SS paint.
The picture doesn't do it justice.
09-17-2010 03:09 PM
jcclark
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
SS metallic dosn't even come close to the look of BC/CC because no matter what you do it wont dry quick enough and the metalics wont stand up they always lay down because the paints wet...BC on the other hand drys quick and you can stand them up so theres a BIG difference in the way they reflect light...
..
I sprayed my SS dryer like a basecoat, the metallic was hard to
control so I sprayed it like a basecoat knowing the clear
would give the gloss back. Made it much easier to control.
Kirker even has an additive just for that, but I didn't use it.

Basecoat is opaque, it covers in just a few coats.
You don't see through it.
The SS I used took about 12 coats to cover, why?,
Because it's very transparent (it's clear with a color added basically).
It gives a candy look because of the transparent color coats,
that's why candy has more depth, that's why my single stage has
more depth. Basecoat can't do that. Not even close.

Barry did not recommend clearcoating single stage,
he only recommended the procedure on how to.

Many restoration shops in the US use single stage with a
clear coat. And their reason is the color and depth.
You'd be surprised at how many show cars are done that way
and you didn't even know it.

Barry: According to the National Forrestry Agency of the US,
trees are growing more each year than the harvest rate.
At this rate we'll be over run with trees in just a few years (LOL)
So use more paper.
09-16-2010 02:14 PM
shine jc clark gave him the right answer before it became a zoo. go ahead and dump it .
09-16-2010 02:02 PM
crashtech Too bad the irrelevant stuff could not be edited out, I would edit mine out if I could. I apologize for my role in the fiasco.
09-16-2010 09:55 AM
OneMoreTime Well guys shall I dump or close this thread..?? let me know..

Sam
09-16-2010 08:32 AM
BarryK Mike,
Both point sides are right on certain things, one way does not fit all and the poor guy that posted the question, was spammed right off, so I'm sure he is just scratching his head at this point, in pure confusion.

Thread is just not worth anything now as too much bull posted.
09-16-2010 07:22 AM
deadbodyman Barry,
Your a great guy and have many personal friends...anyone thats ever met you or talked to you on the phone (me included) Thats a lot of people..If I'm wrong about this SS metallic just say so, I can handle it...from you..and might even give it some consideration...I didnt even know anyone made a good quality SS metallic paint...heck I've been wrong once or twice before so have you ...but I still gotta see it to believe it ....it seems to defiy the laws of gravity...and makes no sence to me.
I dont know if you've noticed but I'm a tree hugger too.you going to the big meeting this weekend???
09-16-2010 06:47 AM
deadbodyman OK ,so if you can get good results with it you must know something I dont.You stated you have to know how to suspend the metallics (automotive painting 101) so with all my experiance 35yrs of painting and I cant do it ,Your going to recomend it to someone just starting out??? I agree with you on one thing Shine ,this thread is turning into BS...and is starting to sound like a pissing contest...but the fact is I've never seen a SS metalilic look "great" and I simply wont believe it unless I see it up close and personal...none of the painters I've ever met in 35 yrs will agree either...As far as I know the only shops that use SS metallics are the Econo types where a full paint job costs 275.00...wanna explain to these guys how you do it or just let them see for themselves ???
It would be wise to try ALL these styles on a test panel like an old hood or something so you guys can see what works best for you....
09-16-2010 06:30 AM
BarryK I think you misunderstood something ..or he misunderstood you...no one with any experience would say to do that unless they were trying to get you of the phone its about the biggest waste of time there is
Copy and paste from Deadbodyman.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well Jim, is a personal friend, so I really doubt, I would give him bad advice to get rid of him.

Keep me out of this post please, I'm a tree hugger and hate the wasteful use of paper as it kills trees.
09-16-2010 06:16 AM
shine
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
10 times better yes (shinier) but still ,nothing like a metallic BC/CC it's impossible ...gravity always wins, it pulls the metalics down ...
you obviously have not done much custom work or you would know how to suspend the metallics . base coat is primarily for collision work. where speed is required. you'll get better adhesion with ss and a much better base for your clear. base coat is the weak link in the job and will be the source for any problems you have. this is the reason it is activated by most painters.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.