|09-20-2010 04:03 PM|
|hotwheels1||Alright, it took me allot of work, but i think i got the front end back together and sitting better then before. (i haven't swapped my spindles yet.) As you can see, the frame used to sit about 1/2" off of the ground, now it's up about 3".|
|09-19-2010 09:27 AM|
|hotwheels1||That is awesome. Hopefully i will be in the garage today and i will swap everything over and see how much room i will actually have.|
|09-19-2010 09:21 AM|
|Frisco||Here are some additional pics. Two show the stock steering arm with a dropped axle and almost '0' clearance. The next two show the same axle with the Chassis Engineering steering arms. Lots of clearance.|
|09-19-2010 09:11 AM|
That is awesome frisco, i will pull the front end apart and make the swap. Thanks a bunch for sharing those pictures, that makes it much easier for me to understand.
|09-19-2010 09:05 AM|
|09-19-2010 08:35 AM|
Thanks frisco. I will have to sit and relook at the front end. If i swap the spindles back to the opposite sides, the steering rod hit's the frame. I have already cut the frame to spring shackle to bring the frame up off the ground a couple of inches. thanks for the heads up and i will do some reading on the ackerman angle.
|09-19-2010 08:32 AM|
Since I just adjusted my differential/wheelbase dimension these are fresh photos from last week.
|09-19-2010 08:24 AM|
|Frisco||Looking at your pictures, you need to swap the spindles from side to side. Having them reversed as you do will cause the "Ackerman" angle to be off and you will have the steering geometry way off. To best understand this do a search for "Ackerman Angle". Basically what this is can be shown if you draw a line from the center of the tie rod hole in the steering arm, thru the center of the kingpin on both sides towards the rear, the intersecting point should be about the center of the rear end. Handling will be very difficult at any speed the way you have it set up. If you want to keep the spindles as you have them, you must heat and bend the steering arms outward towards the wheel rim to correct the angle. This can seldom be properly corrected this way as the steering arms will tend to hit the rim before achieving the correct angle needed. Best to put the spindles on the correct sides and lower the steering arms to clear your frame.|
|09-19-2010 07:18 AM|
irelands child made me remember the 4 link setup.. i have wish on the front and 4 bar on rear.. IF u have not gotten then wishbones yet then i highly recommend looking hard at 4 links... the wish are a pain to do front end alinments, because u need to unbolt both heims to make an adj.. where as the 4 link u just turn the rods... little more to make brackets but u can do an alinment in minutes vs an hour.. i love them 4 links.
|09-18-2010 04:09 PM|
|Irelands child||On a solid front end, 6* and anywhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch of toe in seems to work for most. The camber is (hopefully) set by the axle and spindle manufacturer at 1-2 degrees negative (top tipped out a tad.|
|09-18-2010 03:41 PM|
|09-18-2010 03:37 PM|
|09-18-2010 01:34 PM|
So which way is actually a positive camber, the bottom of the kingpin facing forward and the top tipped back a bit?
If that is the case, can i use an angle finder and put like 6* degrees with the hairpins?
I attached a couple images.
|09-18-2010 09:07 AM|
|adantessr||Remember to set in positive caster . Where the centerline of the king pins intersects the road ahead of the centerline of the tires . This is what keeps the car from wandering .|
|09-18-2010 09:00 AM|
|hotwheels1||Thanks guys.......I will check out the video too, really appreciate the links.|
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