|09-21-2010 09:09 AM|
As bad as the economy is I would imagine that you could get a rear clip and doors from them.
|09-21-2010 01:50 AM|
|chicocan||Well, I did make note of all your suggestions, I will try to apply some of them and I will post my progress, you will have to wait about six months because Iam going to mexico for that length of time, I wish I could put the body on top of the motorhome, I know that they can do it, and very cheap, to all of you for all your good intencions "Muchas gracias Amigos"http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=1314357#|
|09-17-2010 12:09 AM|
|thaugen||Door: try Craigslist Houston shelby cobra replica hood and doors|
|09-16-2010 11:46 PM|
Time or Money? Which have you got?
Money: Google ""COBRA" KIT CAR REAR END BODY" and you'll find a Craigslist San Diego for what you need for $300. Then pay about that to have it shipped to you.
Time: Reverse the shape of the right side to make a part to repair the left side.
Buy a gallon of polyester resin and several yards of 6 oz. fiberglass cloth. In the states you can get this at Wally World, Home Depot/Lowes or the local auto supply store. Also boating stores. Heavily wax your right quarter panel. Then lay up about three or four layers of cloth over the right quarter panel. Be sure to include the edge of the doorjamb so later you can index from that point back. Let it sit in the sun for a couple of days to harden up, then peel the new part off the body. It will be quite flexible. Clean the inside with wax remover.
Now here's the trick to reversing the shape: slice the new part into 1 inch wide strips vertically (like a vertical blind) and then reverse each strip as you fit it to the other side of the car. In other words, starting just behind the door jam, cut a 1 inch strip from the new part and fit it into the hole in the left side of the body next to the door jam. Then cut another strip from the new part and fit it up to the first strip you just attached. Keep cutting and attaching strips in this manner until you get to the back of the quarter panel and have filled the hole. Sure, the edge of each strip will be slightly out of whack with the next strip, but you don’t care because you are only using these strips as a base so you can then build up the outer surface with more layers of glass cloth. I would use a saber saw with a very fine toothed blade to cut the strips.
Naturally, before you start repairing that quarter you’re going to want to cut out all the damaged areas leaving straight edges that are easy to match up with new glass. Sand off the paint and the gelcoat too. Streetbeasts advertises that their bodies are extremely thick, so if yours is more than 3/16 inch thick, you can thin down the edges to less than that by grinding off the gelcoat and also grinding the inside, “feathering” the edges back a couple of inches.
Get some 5 minute epoxy glue. Now you can glue up the 1 inch strips to the inside of the body, one at a time so you can place each one a saw kerf apart from the next. The strips will be low (depressed) all over so that you can then build up the outer surface of the body with 6 or more layers of cloth, and some of those layers are going to carry over onto the feathered areas of the old body surfaces both inside and out, thus locking the repair into the existing body. Several layers of cloth can be added at one time until the repair is strong enough.
Now the real fun begins: the repaired area must be built up to the proper level and must be faired so all the body contours are correct with no waviness, and not only that but the new surface must be made of a material that expands and contracts the same as the original gelcoat on the rest of the body or the repair will “map” through your finished paint. You can’t just use Bondo.
If you were a glutton for punishment you could keep adding layers of fiberglass mat (not cloth) to get the surface high, and then after it hardened up you could grind it down and then eventually cover it with gelcoat. You may already know that grinding on fiberglass is about as nasty as it gets. Alternatively, you could use Duraglas (get it at the auto paint store) which is an extremely hard waterproof putty and is approximately as hard as gelcoat. It’s hard to grind and feather so you would need serious power tools to work it on a surface that large, BUT it’s still better than trying to work fiberglass. Also look up Vette Panel Adhesive made by Evercoat, the makers of Rage Gold, for use as a top coat instead of Rage/Bondo. You can order it in gallons.
After you get done you may wish you had bought a new body for about $2500US. They show up on Egay frequently.
|09-16-2010 01:26 AM|
#1) Find a local 3D Laser Scanning Company
#2) Have it scanned
#3) It will be in a 3D Cad program and they can easily reverse it.
#4) Take the Cad design to a milling company and have it milled in Styrofoam. You'll be given options of the types of foams. The harder it is , the better your finish will be. The 3D Scanning company will know of somewhere in your area to have this done if you can't find them.
#5) Perfectly finish the foam
#6) Make a mold...for the best molding products use "Smooth-On " rubbers... Silicone mold rubbers are the best but you can use RTV that can be used many times and when finished you melt them down and start over... Quite simply to make the mold you seal the item,,,use a mold release... brush/spray/pour rubber over it,,, put a cast around it for supporting the rubber,,,called a mother mold... then cast your fiberglass resin/mesh into the mold.. put in each layer and roll it out to release air.. get your thickness you want (predetermine the amount of layers ) let completely cure and you are done... Again,, Silicone rubbers are the best for resins as the resin will not stick to the silicone and a release agent won't be needed. You can confirm this at Smooth-On
Note,,, do not finish the foam by adding layers of fiberglass mesh as the resulting part will be thicker then the original.. you only want to remove all voids in the foam to make it completely and perfectly smooth.. this is also why you want the foam to be very hard so that your sanding won't easily change the shape of the foam.
Anyone wanting to manufacture small parts,,, search 3D Laser Scanning and Rapid Prototyping,, you'll be amazed how they can make parts with a laser etc,, like laser printing of prototype parts.
If you like to tinker around and make things.. you can make your own scanner and have it import the data into a Cad program... Just search the web and you'll find info on how to do it... Of course you could buy a scanner but they aren't cheap... but would be perfect for someone making replica parts and well worth it.
If it turns out to be to expensive,,,think Alibaba dot com
|09-13-2010 04:00 PM|
|crashtech||It might be worthwhile to see if a different supplier's quarter can be trimmed and modified to work with that body. That's the route I would take, anyway.|
|09-13-2010 11:45 AM|
since you have the main structure, i'd glue up foam and shape it on the body. using contour gauges or cardboard templates to get the shape right and glass over it. one off parts do not require a mold. the problem with this method is that your rough side is the side you want to paint. lots of bodywork to get it paint ready, but it's doable. check out fiberglassforums.com this is where i learned to glass my interior parts and tonneou cover.
there are a lot of guys on that site doing the same thing. you will spend a lot more time but a lot less $$$ than buying one.
|09-13-2010 08:09 AM|
I know some one who made the exact repair you are on a Cobra doing the exact same thing. Since the body is off the car and you will be evidently painting the whole thing which helps.
With the body on a stand, fully aligned, the next thing I would do is sand the right side of the car and spray some grey non fill primer; not a heavy coat, but a light even coat. This allows you to make marks, or a grid to copy from.
A laser is great for making a grid on a car which can be marked out. With a grid you break it into section by section. I have a skid load of poster board for this.
Since you are only making one it would not be necessary to copy this into a computer but drawing programs such as Corel draw make it real easy to copy in form dimensions so they can be smoothed, printed out and duplicated. That is awesome if things are not a 100% right the first time.
I had mentioned balsa wood before but blue insulation foam is great for shaping. This (and the thickness of each section divider) would also determine the distance the sections are divided up into. You should just have enough room to insert the foam, carve it down and then sand it.
Sand foam with coarse sand paper to get basic shape. Fine sand paper does not shape well.
If I were doing it, that is the direction I would go.
|09-13-2010 07:57 AM|
Some one keeps hitting us with spam.
|09-12-2010 11:18 PM|
Watch Jack Goes Boating Online Free
|09-12-2010 11:14 PM|
|chicocan||Thanks again to all, here are some pictures of the the body.|
|09-03-2010 07:41 PM|
|09-03-2010 06:16 PM|
It can be done in an even easier fashion. We have in the past used blocks of florist's foam hot glued to the inner structure. This foam can be shaped with a cheese grater (surform file) to just below the proper contour, then finished with filler and primer to create a plug. This will get mold release applied before glassing to create a mold for the part you wish to create.
Of course the "devil is in the details," but with a little care you can come up with something that will work.
|09-03-2010 10:31 AM|
I don't build Street beast "Cobras" (or any other Street Beast cars) "for a living" or even as a hobby. But I do know that the company as a whole is NOT your typical "reproduction" auto parts or cars company. It's ONE goal was to make money. And being EVERY SINGLE PART OF EVERY SINGLE STREETBEAST I have ever seen is TOTALLY differerent and "odd" to say the least (have you seen their frames? ) I would have to say that the "Cobra" body may be "similar" but it is by no means an exact copy of ANY car ever made.
Here is a Street Beasts "Cobra".
And here is another one, even these too look like they have different flares on the back.
Here is another, don't know the manufacturer.
Here is another...
Notice they are all different? Now, I "doubt" I would be so stupid to change the design being there are plenty out there to pull a mould. It would be much "simpler" to do it that way, but Street Beast has proven they don't do anything "simple" (Have you seen their frames? ).
Nope, if I am going to assume that just like EVERYTHING else they make (have you tried to put a tilt front end from their "Willys" on a real Willys?) the body would be different in some way. And I don't mean simply a different flare, I mean a TOTALLY different shape. And unless you used a profile guage and spent a bunch of time you would never know! Not until you are trying to mate up the parts you just cut up of course. Then you could find that the fender has a half inch higher crown in it or something.
Nope, unless it was a streetbeasts part I wouldn't guess that another manufacturer would be the same.
|09-03-2010 09:42 AM|
|shine||the reason the 34 is different is that streetbeast is an old kit car mfg. one piece bodies . no one else makes them so they had to tool up for it. but the cobra is just too common to do the tooling. i'm sure it is made with cheap resins and lacks some of the inner strength but i doubt they are a unique body.|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|