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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> 700r4 removal advice.
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-30-2003 11:23 PM
chevcamz28newbie ok well that was the detent cable i took it off from the throttle body and ran it behind the motor and left it on the tranny got it ready to go i cant get in touch with my friend him and his old lady seperated, i guess im gonna have to bring it to someone, what kinda labor charges should i be looking for to change the 3/4 clutch pack? and also what about a different servo other than the one that is on there stock, whats a good one that isent real expensive and what kind of differences will it make?
07-30-2003 11:13 PM
troy-curt The wire should unplug, the dip stick just pulls out.

07-30-2003 08:14 PM
chevcamz28newbie OK finally, after much patience , got the tranny down, the wire coming down on the passenger side, whats the way to disconnect that , from the tranny or where? and how, also the oil dipstick tube, it just screw off the tranny? thanks for all the help guys, would have been horrible without you...
07-30-2003 06:22 PM
chevcamz28newbie ok got 4 bolts out , two left, was taking off the dist. cap and got a problem, the two screws holding it down , one was good and someone stripped the head on the other one and the screwdriver wont catch, tried pliers, cant get them in close little screw can f**k up a day....gues i better try and use a little patience, lol...gotta go get another 10" extenstion, i had a universal 3/8 here and 10-12 inches worth of extension maybe my dad has an ext bar
07-30-2003 06:42 AM
troy-curt yes
07-29-2003 11:47 PM
chevcamz28newbie What about the distributor cap deal with that off will that give more allowance for the engine to tilt and make it easier to get to the bolts ?
07-29-2003 11:32 PM
troy-curt Snap-on is the best you can buy. But any brand will do the job.
You need a 24 inch x3/8 extension,a3/8 drive universal 9/16 socket and preferably a air impact, but you can get by with a 3/8 drive ratchet.hth


We all pushed Jon for a spell checker,he came through for us,
so everybody please use it.
07-29-2003 11:08 PM
chevcamz28newbie I dident get much chance to work on it today with so much crap to do around here, i got the driveshaft out , the crossmember behing the oil pan and the cooler lines shift linkage etc and got the first two bolts off the botom on each side of the bellhousing, got it on the jackstands and tranny and engine supported each with a jack and 2x8 , also if i take the distrubotor cap off, it will allow the engine to tilt more and make it easier to get to the middle two and top two bolts? ive got to pick up a couple of things tomorrow, whats the best extensions to use to get to the middle and top bolts? im not going to do any of the work to the transmission insides myself someone else is gonna do it a tranny shop or if my mechanic friend will come (cant get in touch with him) he'll do it ...i mjust gonna watch and help and learn about the insides what i can.
07-29-2003 09:43 PM
Rubberman2003 Thanks i just re-read what i wrote, i did just mean the cap, thats what i did, Sorry bout that.
07-29-2003 09:00 PM
troy-curt You shouldn`t have to pull the ex. system as it helps hold up the rear of the engine. just remove the dist. cap not the whole dist
if you get it out of time thats another headache for you.

07-29-2003 07:47 PM
I have taken out several trannies

First things first, don't get discouraged, you're right you have to learn. so get under there and start learning. The best thing to do is to get four good jack stands (3 ton) and jack the car up as high as you can so that working underneath it is easy. First remove your exhaust completely because it really gets in the way. Then remove the drive shaft by removing the Ujoint clip from the rearend, usually 4 bolts. Just slide the shaft out from the tranny, some fluid may come with it. Next disconnect your 4 prong wire, which controls your lockup converter. then disconnect your throttle valve cable on the passenger side, 10mm bolt if i remember, something like that. then remove your converter cover. Now you should about ready... put a jack with a 2X6 underneath the tranny pan and put a little pressure on it. not much just make contact. Then there should be 6 bolts that go to the block around the bell housing. Undo all those (this might be hard, alot of extension and access to a air gun is nice) and then slowly let down the tranny while backing it away from the motor. The converter seal might stick so just give it a shove. The tranny is now free from the motor. But one guy was right, have it rebuilt because that takes a lot of experience, especially with a 700r4. Make sure you get a new converter and new front and rear seals and then just do the opposite to re install. Let me know if you have any questions i got pretty good at taking those things out.

07-29-2003 05:57 PM
Rubberman2003 I just did this not to long ago, except i put a Th350 in my car, then i pulled it out and got another one (one that wouldnt blow after a mile) and put it in. Get the car up on 4 jack stands, make sure you have plenty of room, i cannot stress this enough. Then just undo all you shift linkage,kickdown,oil cooler lines,you can even unbolt it from the torque are now to. After that is done you need to support the motor and the tranny with a padded jack. Then go ahead and unolt your 3 torque convertor bolts. Then, make sure you motor is at TDC and pull the distributor....this is so you can tilt the motor back without breaking it. After that is out unbolt your crossmember, and begin taking the bellhousing bolts loose, the top 2 can be a real biatch, you might have to get them with a wrench fromt he top, but most likely you will need about 20" worth of extentions and a wobble socket and come in from under the car. Once you manage to get all the bellhousing bolts, make sure the jack has some pressure on the tranny, and with a good shack is should come loose. Lower the jack and slide her out. Done, good luck.
07-29-2003 12:32 AM
jimfulco Memory's a bit foggy, but I think I saw one of those 4-sided plugs that only had 3 wires & the 4th spot was blank.
07-28-2003 10:29 PM
chevcamz28newbie thanks, i got it out i just dident realize it came out with just a little pressure wich i figured out but i dident wanna be pullin on something and screw it up but its out and i have to put it up for the night gotta get up early in the morn. but do you think its a good idea to replace the other clutch packs too since ive gotta replace the 3/4 clutch pack? and whats a good brand that will give some improvement over the stock?
07-28-2003 10:10 PM
mr.chevelle Yey you will have to loosen the drive shaft from the rearend.Once you get it loose it will slide back toward the rear of the car about 3 inches and come out of the trans.Ive never worked on the camaros but i asume that it is the same ive never seen any no diffrent.Also this is the prefect chance to replace your U joints.They are cheap so you mide as well do it know.
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