|10-29-2010 03:46 PM|
That succa hasn't leaked a drop in days since I repositioned top.
I noticed new top gasket has no ribs but old one did.
I will continue to watch it.
|10-29-2010 03:41 PM|
|rwruther||I bought one of those cheapo double flare tools and did ALL my brake lines on my 39. I had to learn the hard way, it's not easy to get a good flare, it's HARD to get a good flare. Any little bitty mark or any off angle at all, a bur, anything! And the joint leaks! I HATE my cheapo flare tools, but it's all I have. Everybody I know just buys the store bought lines and bends them to fit. ...just my 2 cents|
|10-26-2010 10:00 PM|
|10-26-2010 09:53 PM|
|10-26-2010 07:44 PM|
|68NovaSS||Keep in mind brake line flares need to be double flares, I don't believe most run of the mill flaring tools will make double flares.|
|10-25-2010 08:33 PM|
The line looks clean past inverted flare seat as far as I can see.
Some rust took hold where inverted flare faces interface.
If it doesn't clean up I will replace line.
|10-25-2010 07:58 PM|
|LATECH||Yeah... DONT. you will remove metal and weaken it. Just cut it off and reflare it. Flares are easy to do. If you have to replace the whole line so be it. You should have enough slack to cut a little off and reflare it.Dont cheap out on your brake system.If there is rust inside the flare it may have a crack in it. Take a good look at it just to see.|
|10-25-2010 02:27 PM|
Leaking 45* inverted flare brake line
My OEM inverted flare leaks very slowly.
I noticed some rust on the OEM steel inverted flare face.
I am considering bead blasting the rusty inverted flare face.
Would prefer 45* conical sanding/polishing cone; I don't own one.
Any advice for sanding or polishing the conical 45* steel inverted flare?