|01-22-2015 01:07 PM|
Thank you Dan, I noticed that even though Schmetz lists 134 as the needle - the containers that they come in show them as 134 and 135 so perhaps it is just a case of better needles than in 1900... and more options.
I have had this machine for almost 30 years- when I got it - it was black and fluffy inside. I took it totally apart and cleaned it - it took far longer to put it back together! I took it to Los Angeles to a fellow who only worked on Industrial machines and he said it was in amazing condition. He tuned it - that was many years ago!
Recently using thick thread to make some canvas covers the timing went askew -
I have gone to every forum and blog looking for information to time the machine and this forum is the first to give exact measurements. They were easy to follow and it runs perfectly.
Thanks for all the help.
|01-22-2015 07:08 AM|
|DanTwoLakes||You can use the 134 needles, that's what my needle reference chart says for your machine anyway.|
|01-21-2015 10:02 PM|
Pfaf 142 timing
I did exactly what you said and it worked! beautiful stitches! I thank you all immensely as I have been messing with this for two weeks!
Ok here is a question.
I have a 142-720/02 601-BS and the manual states that it requires a 134 FLG needle? I have looked all over and from what I understand there was something about that needle that allowed this machine to do very fast flat seams.. ?
I use the 134 -35 and have not noticed a problem. Would it make a difference if I went with only 134 needles?
I had some wonky screws and got replacements from Pfaff I checked the serial number with them and my machine is one from 1900 and was sold to the military for uniforms etc... Now that you all helped me time it - it is back making beautiful stitches and so quiet!
|05-13-2014 01:21 PM|
Replacing needle bar
You will need to slide the needle bar down, so you will need to remove the feed dog and the plate that prevents the needle bar from moving from side to side. You simply loosen the screw that holds the needle bar in place and slide it out. Immediately put the new needle bar in making sure that the bushing that holds the needle bar has not flipped over. Making sure that the timing is set properly, adjust the needle bar so that when the hook point is directly behind the needle, the hook point is 1.6 mm above needle eye.
|05-13-2014 07:37 AM|
Yes, it's extremely rare a needle bar will break. I had to replace the needle bar on my Consew 226 because I broke the screw off that holds the needle in place.
Before you do anything, mark where the present needle bar is located at each attaching point on your machine. This will give you a good starting point when you install the new one.
|05-12-2014 10:31 PM|
|Pfaff545h3||Does anyone here know how to replace the needle bar on a pfaff 545. I was told that it is rare that the bar fails. There is nobody in my area that services sewing machines. I just need to be pointed in the right direction. I have all the manuals with the parts brake down.|
|10-22-2013 06:47 PM|
Timing a Pfaff 545, Consew 226, Singer 111W and Juki LU-563
Adjust stitch length to zero (no feeding).
Turn handwheel to place needle in lowest position.
When needle is raised 2.5mm above lowest position (in sewing direction), hook point should be directly behind needle.
After setting hook timing, check that there is .1mm clearance between hook and needle.
After setting hook timing, adjust needle bar so that when hook point is directly behind needle, the hook point is 1.6mm above needle eye.
|09-02-2011 08:02 PM|
Pfaff sewing machines are the best in the business, outside of Adler. Why do I say that? Adler machines have 1/2" main shafts, and all other machines have 3/8" main shafts (both German machines,..... imagine my shock) But,....... any true industrial sewing machine in the hands of a professional upholsterer, and not used at full speed 24 hours a day in an industrial setting, will last forever. These machines were made to sew 3000 stitches a minute 24 hours a
day. The Consew 226- R that I use for almost all my sewing is over 40 years old. The next 5 generations of my family will still be using this machine, and it will perform flawlessly, with only reasonable basic maintenance. There is nothing the average part time, or full time for that matter, upholsterer can do to screw up any industrial sewing machine.
The point is that if you're only sewing one or two interiors, or less than that, you can invest in any good industrial machine and sell it for almost what you paid for it, or make a profit. Maybe not in this economy, but definitely in the long run.
|09-02-2011 09:38 AM|
|got it covered||
545 pfaff timming
i have a 545 pfaff too if i timeing it bring the neddle down all the way down on the upstroke the hook has to be 1/16 on top of the needle hole to ajust this their are two screws on the underside of the of the machine on the hook bar you have to loosen so the hook moves freely jerry got it covered
|11-09-2010 10:33 AM|
|11-09-2010 07:29 AM|
I ran across the part numbers for the timing tool.
The gauges are 61-111-600-01
The clamp is 61-111-600-35
Here is a link for a parts manual for the 545. It will give you all of the Pfaff part numbers.
|11-03-2010 04:51 PM|
There is a timing tool that amounts to a needle bar clamp and a series of feeler gauges. It's been awhile since I have used one, but I believe it is 6.0 mm. We would often use our fingernail and move the needle bar up about the thickness of a Nickel, from the bottom of the stroke.
|11-03-2010 04:45 PM|
Watch the fore and aft position of the needle as you shorten the stitch length. The needle bar moves towards the back of the machine. My guess is that you need to time the machine in Neutral or the shortest stitch length.
|11-03-2010 04:37 PM|
|JJ269J||The machine is an H4, so your correct that is uses the 190R needles. The 1245 manual worked fine for me, although I don't remember it saying to adjust the stitch length to 0 first. I will have to double check that, but it sews great now. Thanks for the help.|
|11-03-2010 09:41 AM|
Pfaff 545 timing
Keep in mind that there are two needle systems for the 145, 545 and 1245. If the machine is an H3, it will take a 134/35 needle. If it is an H4 machine it will take a 190R needle. The H3 machines have a dual spring bar across the top of the machine. The H4 machines do not.
That could be why the hook was in the middle of the eye. The 190R needle is longer than the 134/35.
The timing is the same, just remember to adjust your stitch length to 0 before timing and adjust it back to sew. This is as critical as the measurements.
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