drop coats cause more trouble than they solve. the dry met will move with the first coat of clear. metallics have to be shot wet and even or they will move around.
reducing can be pushed to 5 maybe 10% but thats all. the whole point is to get rid of solvents.
Coming from a newbie painter and someone who frequents (lurks) several auto/paint forums, Shine is a bit rough on the replies, but is always so right it hurts.
Coming from a newbie painter and someone who frequents (lurks) several auto/paint forums, Shine is a bit rough on the replies, but is always so right it hurts.
Yup . He has the experience . I was only in the paint and body business for 3 years ('82 to '85) , mainly because I moved 1300 miles , but I learned alot in that time . Mainly what not to do by watching the other guys. The first car I did was my '75 Nova SS and everyone wanted to know who painted it . It was all the adverising I needed . Ran one ad for two weeks ( a weekly paper so the ad only showed 2 X ) and never needed to adverise again . I was booked 3 mo. in advance. OOOOPS ...Sorry . did not mean to brag . Just meant to say there are a lot more experinced painters than I on here . I can just speak from my experience.
Coming from a newbie painter and someone who frequents (lurks) several auto/paint forums, Shine is a bit rough on the replies, but is always so right it hurts.
Yeah, he's a little rough around the edge's but after pullin the trigger for over 40 years you'd be a little rough also.
I know I get sick and tired of tryin to help so called painters out also, and I've only been pullin the trigger for 45+ years
And yeah Shine, still got probably 8 or 10 JGA's
Best gun ever made.
Wow , You deserve to be proud of those results ! ! BTW . Did you use any reducer and if so , what ratio ? I didn't reduce mine at all. First time I sprayed anything without reducer .
Now THAT looks great whatever you used...I agree you can be very proud of that kind of work....Your a natural .....in thrity or fourty years you can be a crusty old bass turd Too ... ...Dont be a painter be someone that can paint well....Screwem,:thumbup:
Now THAT looks great whatever you used...I agree you can be very proud of that kind of work....Your a natural .....in thrity or fourty years you can be a crusty old bass turd Too ... ...Dont be a painter be someone that can paint well....Screwem,:thumbup:
Thanks! I'm just a guy trying to save a little $$$ by spraying at home. I'm pretty happy with the results, so far.
I DO appreciate the advice guys.
I recorded my spraying sessions, well I forgot to record the first one. This time around I mixed the paint 4:1:1, just to see how it would do. It came out pretty good, other than my newb painter errors and limitations of painting in a garage.
Second coat of clear. My creeper tried to sabotage the paint on my deck lid. I laid the second coat of clear on wet so I will have some material to sand.
It looks GREAT in the video . We always tend to be overly critical of our own paint jobs . Take my word for it from experience that there are flaws in there that no one will ever see if you don't point them out . I could NOT see any in the video . Great job , and I like the wrist action where you try to keep the gun perpendicular to the surface at all times and I think I could hear you leave off of the trigger at the end of each pass . You must have been reading some good tech articles or been taking to an experienced painter .
It looks GREAT in the video . We always tend to be overly critical of our own paint jobs . Take my word for it from experience that there are flaws in there that no one will ever see if you don't point them out . I could NOT see any in the video . Great job , and I like the wrist action where you try to keep the gun perpendicular to the surface at all times and I think I could hear you leave off of the trigger at the end of each pass . You must have been reading some good tech articles or been taking to an experienced painter .
Thanks. That's true. I'm sure I might have a couple hick ups in the final paint job but I wont be pointing those out. Until then, I'm going to correct as much as possible.
I've read quite a few tech articles, and books. A couple of the things I've learned is wrist technique (ie keeping the gun parallel to the surface you're spraying) and I think they call it feathering, where you release the trigger just enough so no paint is coming out at the end of your panel but you still have your air flow. I wish I was better at it, but the more I paint the more I'm getting the hang of it.
Here are the final results. I wet sanded with 400, then 600. I mixed the paint 4:1:1.5 (paint, activator, reducer) and sprayed it on wet. They look just as good as a cut and buffed paint job, almost just as good. I'm very happy with the results.
Video of me painting the flow coat (video still may be processing, but I can see it. Check back a little later if you can't).
Well guys, here the final pictures of Summit's Paint cut and buffed. I have no previous experience with painting, but I liked how the Summit Paint worked for a guy in his garage like me.
Sunday, my buddy Dave came over and went to town on the bug, color sanding and buffing. While he was sanding and buffing.
Here is the car before he worked on it. Looks good / decent. I call it a 5 foot paint job. Shiny and smooth, but it had a couple runs, some dry spray and dust through out the paint job.
Here you can see the dry spray that was in a few areas.
Here's Dave, hard at work. He arrived at the house at about 10 am and worked all day, until about 10 pm perfecting the paint / detail job. Fantastic!
And the drum roll.................................................
I'll let the pictures do the talking.
Dave did such a fantastic job!!! My paint went from a 5 foot to I wanna still my face in it. If any of you in the Houston area would like Dave to detail you car I can give you his contact information.
Thanks again, Dave! I can't wait to get some pictures out in the sun.
HOLY (EXPLETIVE DELETED!)! It looked dang good before, now, AWESOME! Do you have any threads on the driveline in the site? Did you build the engine? What're the particulars on it?
HOLY (EXPLETIVE DELETED!)! It looked dang good before, now, AWESOME! Do you have any threads on the driveline in the site? Did you build the engine? What're the particulars on it?
An other wise stock motor. I had tech run a dyno sims and he got 438 hp @5500, 410 ft/lbs @2000 and 469 ft/lbs @4000.
Tranny is a built th350. 5 clutchs, upgraded hardened sprag race (i think that's what it's called), B&M shift kit. Has B&M 2,500 stall.
The car still needs some upgrading. It has 3.08 gears and the stock 7.625" rear, which isn't too bad in such a light car.
Plans for now are just to cruise to shows and have a little fun with some of the american muscle cars and ricers. When I'm ready to get better E/Ts at the track I'll upgrade the rear and stall.
Don't know how fast you want to run but my 1800 lb T-bucket with a basic 300 hp 350 and turbo 350 trans w/1800 rpm stall and 3.08 rear runs 8.52 in the 1/8 mi @ 81.49 . That's as fast as I want to get in such a light car. You should be quite a bit quicker with your setup .
Don't know how fast you want to run but my 1800 lb T-bucket with a basic 300 hp 350 and turbo 350 trans w/1800 rpm stall and 3.08 rear runs 8.52 in the 1/8 mi @ 81.49 . That's as fast as I want to get in such a light car. You should be quite a bit quicker with your setup .
Thanks. I didn't even think about that, but you're right. I'm quite surprised though at the quality of the paint for the money. Not a bad way to go if you happen to like one of the 40 colors they carry and you're on a budget.
I'm sure I'll be happy with the way it's setup. If it ran a mid 12 in the quarter mile, I would be happy. It's scary enough as it is.
According to Cliff Ruggles my 1/8 mile time computes out to 13.3764 in the 1/4 mile . He has raced for over 30 years and is the premier builder of Q-jet carbs and said the formula is 1.57 times the 1/8 mi. time for 1/4 mi. time. So I think you'll be where you want to be with your setup . As for me, there is no way that I am intersted in going over 100 mph in my little T-bucket .
That would be interesting because Summit racing paint ratio is 4 parts paint to 1 part activator and Kirker is 3 parts paint to 1 part activator. Just my observation.
Well Fed-Ex delivered my Summit Racing epoxy primer yesterday. I can't wait to lay some down and see how it does. Hopefully it will warm up some over the next week so I can try it out.
Well Fed-Ex delivered my Summit Racing epoxy primer yesterday. I can't wait to lay some down and see how it does. Hopefully it will warm up some over the next week so I can try it out.
Seems to be really good stuff as a sealer over bare metal or body work.
Just stir it real good. Might even want to take it to Lowes or Home Depot and have them use their machines. :thumbup:
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