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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-11-2010 08:14 PM
bigjohnstud4200
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjohnstud4200
I would not use bondo on plastic. I have repaired and painted motorcycle plastics using "Maxim Plastic Repair Semi-Rigid Epoxy Adhesive". It's the equivalent of bondo but is designed for plastics.

Good luck!
I just noticed, this is regarding fiberglass not plastic.. I guess my 32hr work day caught up to me!
12-11-2010 12:01 PM
bigjohnstud4200 I would not use bondo on plastic. I have repaired and painted motorcycle plastics using "Maxim Plastic Repair Semi-Rigid Epoxy Adhesive". It's the equivalent of bondo but is designed for plastics.

Good luck!
12-11-2010 09:32 AM
Mr.Bolt-on I would use bondo on the fiberglass instead of spot putty. Of course if you want you can use fiberglass, because it mixes the same as bondo.

When I painted my mustang I used Martin Senior Base coat/Clear coat. For the primer I used 2k Urethane (Finish 1 product from NAPA). It sands great, and fills scratches. I'd sand it with 400 grit, and final sand with 600 grit on the primer to make it as smooth as possible. Of course use heavier grits on the bondo like 80 grit, or 120 to 180... then go lighter. With all of this though, remember to use a good sanding block/board.

If you do it right, you'll get all sorts of compliments. Plus your mustang will look good... Especially if you sand the clear coat with 1500 to 2000 grit sandpaper then buff it. If you did all the bodywork correctly, and taped it up just right... it will absolutely look just as good as any $3500 to $5000 paint job.... Especially if it's cut and buffed for a mirror finish.
12-11-2010 07:57 AM
cyberdork bumppppppp
11-29-2010 09:27 PM
roddzz33
paint

Ok.
1. when you use epoxy primer, it is harder to sand and drying temps can effect it. If your using NAPA which is Martin brand paint ask for a data sheet. This gives you what you need to use with the paint your using. Fiberglass can use the same paint, but you need to seal it with the primer.
chips in fiberglass, you can use spot filler. BUT make sure you clean that hole are chip well, remember spot filler is just that to fill small spots or thin fills.
11-28-2010 02:44 PM
cyberdork
Repainting 89 mustang, some questions.

I doubt people remember my motorcycle painting thread, but I painted my first motorcycle with very good success for it being my first time. I used acyrillic urethane paint from NAPA, 2k High build primer from NAPA, and clear coat from NAPA. Now I'm debating taking on a bigger project and trying to salvage some value out of my poor little 89 mustang. This has raised a lot of questions...

1) Primer: I got a high build primer last time because I thought it was a good idea to use because of the scratches I was going to put into the plastic peices of my motorcycle. Now that I have a large metal surface should I use an epoxy primer? What's the difference? I also have a fiberglass hood, will this matter at all?

2) Prep: The current paint has basically no clear coat (rub a wet paper towel across it and it turns blue lol). Would my best bet be to strip what I can down to metal and get rid of this crap paint that's already chipping or just scuff everything up and use a high build primer?

3) Fiberglass repair: My fiber glass has some surface chips. Does spotting putty have any problem on fiberglass? I really don't know how to fiberglass and think I can much more successfully repair the spots with putty than fiberglass.

4) Paint: I used an acryllic urethane like I said with the motorcycle even though I was told to use an acryllic enamel for my first try. Why is this? What's the difference between the enamel and the urethane?

5) Brands: I plan on using Summits 2 stage paint. I'm not a huge perfectionist and am trying to get primer/paint/clear combos all under 350 together. Can anyone suggest any better brands for the same price?

Thanks for all the answers, I'm not too excited to do all of this labor on my junky looking mustang, but it won't be junky looking after I'm done haha

I already have a large compressor, gun, mask.

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