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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-09-2010 08:00 AM
cyclopsblown34 One other person on here I've learned a bunch from is Deadbodyman, he's told me several ways to make my plebian tools work as more specialized tools among other autobody tips.
12-08-2010 09:06 PM
cyclopsblown34 If you call or email them SouthernPoiyurethanes.com, they'll send you to a local distributor or sell direct to you if there is no distributor local to you. The service is top notch as is the product.
12-08-2010 08:32 PM
frodin1 I Googled it and everyone swears by it, but where can I find it? I don't think my local place carries it? I'll have to check.
12-08-2010 08:26 PM
frodin1 What's it run? Only problem is, I have limited access to paint supply places here. Kind of frustrating! I usually have to order stuff I can't get local.
12-08-2010 08:04 PM
Hotbo
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
I beg to differ on this one. I bought some of Barry K's Universal clear, I don't sand and buff any more and wow does the clear shine. If I'm doing anything that requires clear, I use the Southern Polyurethane universal clear, it's the bomb. I'm getting pretty close with my Sata 3000RP Digital with single stage to not having to cut and rub wither. In my case, the gun made a big difference along with what I've learned from here, Brian Martin, Milo and SPI's websites.

X2 SPI UV clear is the BOMB
12-08-2010 12:30 PM
cyclopsblown34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bolt-on
I use an Iwata LPH 400... it works great, and alot better than the cheapo depo guns that I have. Besides, Clear coat rarely lays down as slick as say... a custom Sand and Buff job.

The only time I can get clear to lay down extremely slick, and Mirror shine like a Sand and buff is if I let the first coat of clear cure, then sand it with 800-1500 then shoot another coat of clear. It looks simply amazing, just make sure you don't get any trash on it or you'll have to buff anyways. Of course you need to be careful if you do this, because some clears are extremely sensitive if you don't follow the instructions.

Anyways I'd opt to play it safe, not worry about orange peel... and just sand and buff it. Indeed I hope you know what sanding and buffing is already.
I beg to differ on this one. I bought some of Barry K's Universal clear, I don't sand and buff any more and wow does the clear shine. If I'm doing anything that requires clear, I use the Southern Polyurethane universal clear, it's the bomb. I'm getting pretty close with my Sata 3000RP Digital with single stage to not having to cut and rub wither. In my case, the gun made a big difference along with what I've learned from here, Brian Martin, Milo and SPI's websites.
12-06-2010 06:55 PM
frodin1 Practice makes perfect I guess. I'll keep playing with and try all these tips, then see what happens. I'm going to probably shoot the rest here in the next day or so, "WEATHER PERMITTING"! Oh, I've got a 60 Gallon Speedaire, with a Eaton Head unit rated for continuous operation. It keeps up just fine with the DA or Die grinder. I've got Iwata air brushes and absolutely love them. So I am a believer in quality tools, but when the budget allows it. Thanks for all the input, and I'll let you guys know how the tricks worked out.
12-06-2010 06:05 PM
jeremyb
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
When spraying with an HVLP gun air VOLUME (the V in HVLP) needs to be HIGH (the H in HVLP) to make up for the Low Pressure (the L and P in HVLP).

That gun requires 13.5 CFM at 30 psi at the inlet to acheave the 10 lbs at the cap for proper atomization.

Sooooooo, do you have an air source capible of 13.5 CFM?

Brian
What a lot of folks forget when using certain HVLP's. Like a SATA NR2000, it is an air hog! Requires 15 cfm...whereas the iwata lph400 requires 9.5 cfm. both hvlps. which is why the iwata is preffered by most hobbyists (and pros) doing it a home with a smaller compressor. Requires about the same cfm as the big sata rps with less air pressure.

So if you are at home with a smaller compressor...that is only capable of 14cfm and you are using a gun that is right at that or requires more.....then yes it IS the gun. OR the compressor...however you want to look at it.

Like shine said...it is much more than hooking up the gun and going to town...but that doesn't make it extremely complicated....
12-06-2010 05:57 PM
frodin1 Yea, I managed to get my hood looking pretty good. I let it sit for a few days, and started with 600, jumped to 1200, then to 2000."Its all I had" Then hit it with some Evercoat heavy "on a foam pad" I worry about wool burning through. Then glazed it and it's looking really nice. There's some small sanding scratches in it still , but I think if I would've spent a little more time on the sanding, with the fine stuff, or maybe even gotten 1000 grit in the mix, it would've been better. Way better then the orange peel look.
12-06-2010 05:35 PM
Mr.Bolt-on I use an Iwata LPH 400... it works great, and alot better than the cheapo depo guns that I have. Besides, Clear coat rarely lays down as slick as say... a custom Sand and Buff job.

The only time I can get clear to lay down extremely slick, and Mirror shine like a Sand and buff is if I let the first coat of clear cure, then sand it with 800-1500 then shoot another coat of clear. It looks simply amazing, just make sure you don't get any trash on it or you'll have to buff anyways. Of course you need to be careful if you do this, because some clears are extremely sensitive if you don't follow the instructions.

Anyways I'd opt to play it safe, not worry about orange peel... and just sand and buff it. Indeed I hope you know what sanding and buffing is already.
12-06-2010 03:39 PM
MARTINSR When spraying with an HVLP gun air VOLUME (the V in HVLP) needs to be HIGH (the H in HVLP) to make up for the Low Pressure (the L and P in HVLP).

That gun requires 13.5 CFM at 30 psi at the inlet to acheave the 10 lbs at the cap for proper atomization.

Sooooooo, do you have an air source capible of 13.5 CFM?

Brian
12-06-2010 01:26 PM
frodin1 Here's the link:
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Files/JM4JJM4K/$File/310585E.pdf?OpenElement
12-06-2010 12:49 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by frodin1
All this talk about guns cracks me up! This is why I said I didn't want to purchase a $7-800-900 dollar "what ever" Sata. I know the SATA is the Sh$!, But If I was to spend that, it would only be because I'm using it on a money making daily work environment. Not when I'm just a guy spraying his rods in shop, so please keep that in mind. The Sharp Compliant HVLP, retailed for around $300. Though not expensive in the grand scheme of things with spray guns, it's not exactly a Harbor Freight special either. The tips for this gun are in excess of $80, and the one I have actually came with a 1.3 and 1.4 tip kit. I worked in a body shop for a number of years, but the owner and the son, were the only people spraying, so I never got the opportunity to learn the proper techniques. I was just the guy doing all the work! Tear down, body work, prep for spraying, and reassembly. They showed up, sprayed, and left. Nice situation for them huh? My situation currently, is purely a lack of experience, that's it.
Fastang: I'm going to try your recommendations, I'm going by the directions with my air pressure, which is "WAY" lower than what your saying. It's saying 10 PSI at the tip which is only about 20 at the gauge. This may be one major problem with my system! So, I'll give it a shot! Plus, I'm using an activator system, not a hardner/reducer system. Now I've also read that some guys actually like to run reducers in the mix even though it's not necessary? Personal opinion?
Forget about the 10lbs at the cap, you can't even measure that without a special cap. What does the GUN say for "Maximum inlet pressure"?

Brian
12-06-2010 12:26 PM
shine long way from a pos hf gun to a sharpe . all i can tell you is the lower quality of a gun makes it more difficult to shoot with. the more waste you'll have and most likely the more work to get it right. when doing your own you are saving a lot. i dont think 200-300 is too much to spend on a gun even if you just do your own. paint guns are tools just like anything else. now i actually buy viper guns at northern tools to shoot epoxy with. 2.3 tip and at 44 bucks i can throw it away and get a new one with each job. my good guns have saved me enough in clear alone to pay for themselves.
12-06-2010 11:55 AM
frodin1 All this talk about guns cracks me up! This is why I said I didn't want to purchase a $7-800-900 dollar "what ever" Sata. I know the SATA is the Sh$!, But If I was to spend that, it would only be because I'm using it on a money making daily work environment. Not when I'm just a guy spraying his rods in shop, so please keep that in mind. The Sharp Compliant HVLP, retailed for around $300. Though not expensive in the grand scheme of things with spray guns, it's not exactly a Harbor Freight special either. The tips for this gun are in excess of $80, and the one I have actually came with a 1.3 and 1.4 tip kit. I worked in a body shop for a number of years, but the owner and the son, were the only people spraying, so I never got the opportunity to learn the proper techniques. I was just the guy doing all the work! Tear down, body work, prep for spraying, and reassembly. They showed up, sprayed, and left. Nice situation for them huh? My situation currently, is purely a lack of experience, that's it.
Fastang: I'm going to try your recommendations, I'm going by the directions with my air pressure, which is "WAY" lower than what your saying. It's saying 10 PSI at the tip which is only about 20 at the gauge. This may be one major problem with my system! So, I'll give it a shot! Plus, I'm using an activator system, not a hardner/reducer system. Now I've also read that some guys actually like to run reducers in the mix even though it's not necessary? Personal opinion?
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