|09-08-2012 01:57 PM|
I spent too much time signing off designs and always say what if ? Your idea would probably work. I would get a pry bar and see how much movement you get out of your motor mounts. If you have the rubber bushings on the rear lower arm it probably will absorb any movement. and again how strong is the casting on the trans . I would start with some safety straps under the trailing arms to test drive it.
|09-08-2012 08:06 AM|
There might be a problem with suspension movement trying to move the engine and trans front to back over bumps, It would depend on the type of Motor mounts you use. and how you attach to the Lower Jag arm. Stock jags use a lot of rubber in various mounts, In the old days the racers eliminated the rubber because the rear suspension movement was trying to steer the car. I used the CCR plans putting a Jag rear in my son's 22 Dodge Lakester. With the CCR plans you use the Stock Jag rear rubber in the Hair pin bracket.
|09-08-2012 07:51 AM|
Jag rear axel - trailing arm location
Setting up my rear axle on my '31 Ford Coupe. It's a '73 SJ7 . I have the center mount and ride height set. I have the diagonal control arms roughed in and am working on the trailing arms. To run them paralel to the ground I will have to fab 9" brackets that wold drop down from the center crossmember and connect up to the forward ends of the trailing arms. I'm OK with the but I noticed that on the bottom of the S10 T5 there is a large case mounting lug which hangs down to the exact level I need for the arms. Instead of mounting to the frame would there be any reason I could not run the forward ends of the trailing arms to the mounting lug on the transmission?
Attached is a photo of this mounting lug. It is over an inch thick any nearly five inches long.
|02-26-2012 06:31 AM|
|JMBO||If as I have been told, Jaguar uses a standard Chevy yoke and U Joint for their rear drive axles, then why couldn't you use 1966 to 1969 Corvair (tubular) half shafts in the Jag rear? The rear track...|
|01-16-2011 08:21 AM|
Clarkandrew45 is a spammer from Manila , and has been banned.
This is a new breed of spammer that will post a quote with spammer link in the quote. They try to appear as regular members to get their spam links over looked.
Often post to old threads for some reason
|01-16-2011 08:16 AM|
Some of the Jags alo have vented brake rotors I don't know for sure but I think the 12 cyl models. the later F 40 about 87 and later was a complete redesign of both the front and rear. the rear moved the brakes moved out to the wheels. They just don't look right. Deck officer's is the way I like to see them. The early sedan front suspension have canted A Arms and funny looking springs and shocks.They just don't look right on an open wheel car. K & K Custom Crossmembers down under builds a new front crosmember that uses coil overs. and he puts them in full fendered early Rods. A lot of guys in the UK, NZ, and Australia use jag stuff. The later F 40 sedans upper front A arms have the pivot shaft more parallel the the chassis center line. they have a 2 piece upper arm that is shimmed out at the ball joint end. not much adjustment. I plan on building a new crossmember similar to the K & K for my projects using the new design parts and either using the offset drilled shaft adjustment or a bolt on inner a arm mount.
|01-15-2011 06:27 PM|
On a ride as light as mine at 1790 lbs, I wouldn't use anything but an IRS. Hook and books like crazy, but ride comfort is so good for this weight, have no problems knocking off 500+ mile days. This is an older picture (Montana plates, old M/T bias).
|01-15-2011 04:25 PM|
Hi adtkart, I went through and researched before putting a Jag IRS in my 38 dodge pickup, here's what i found:
Body style XKE-1960 to 63........53.25" wheel flange to flange......Series I
-1964 to 67........53.25" .....Series II
-1968 to 70........53.25" .....Series III
XKE V12 -1970 to 74........56"
3.8S -1960 to 69........56"
XJ6 -1969 to 73.........61.75" ....Series I
-1973 to 79.........61.75" ......Series II
-1979 to 88.........61.75" ...........Series III
XJS -1976 to 87.........61.75"
I was told to stay away from anything newer than 86. I can't remember why.
|12-16-2010 01:21 AM|
|327NUT||If I get your question...IRS = independent rear suspension, you have a basic 3rd member in the middle and two separate axles that work "independently" of each other. Makes for a nice ride.... one thing for the OP to remember, and this is from my hazy memory from the late 70's early 80's, the jag rear has 4 coil over shocks, some guys removed the front shock from each side (???) or you will probably have to change spring rates or it will beat you to death in a lite car. Also the stock disc brakes had extremely hard pads, some cars were a bear to stop until they changed them out.|
|12-15-2010 11:44 PM|
|01-26-2008 10:42 AM|
CCR sells a set of plans to install a jag into their t bucket chassis for $5 the tolal chassis plan is $20 I put an xjs into a roadster.. if you are running fenders you should look for an xke. they are narrower and have wire wheels the sedans use chevy bolt pattern wheels the sedan rears can be narrowed there have been articles on line how to do it CWI in oregon do a lot of jag stuff and also build a complete irs some guys are using the newer bird =forsd irs that have an 8.8 some cobra kit car companies also use the new ford parts
|10-11-2002 07:51 AM|
Model A's are narrow. Model T's even more so. Most rodders use a rear end that is in the range of 55 to 56 inches wide at the wheel mounting flange on Model A's. A friend had a Jag from a XKE under his 29 roadster.
I suggest calling TCI, the frame people in California, and asking them about Jag rear ends and which ones they use. I would not start out with " I building my own frame and .........."
Jerry Kugel of Kugel Komponments is very knowledgeable about Jags.
|10-11-2002 04:48 AM|
Jag IRS in Model A
A few years ago I read an article about using a Jag IRS. It told of the best years to use. I am building 2 projects, a 1931 Model A 2 door and a 1927 Model T touring. I want to use a Jag IRS in each. Any suggestions on the best years/ models to use, and which ones to avoid?