|01-06-2011 04:50 PM|
|01-06-2011 06:24 AM|
Ant, PPG is good stuff and for what you want it'll work fine.if your not palnning on painting for a while,all the more reason to use epoxy...it'll hold up longest of all...I have some on cars outside for 8yrs there still well protected ,a little faded but thats it...
we have a new paint supply store that just opend up ,they sell PPG and I'm visiting them today to check them out...get some prices..
|01-05-2011 06:51 PM|
Lots of good discussion here, love it! Just to clarify, my entire truck is "painted" with the PPG DPLF. I have to replace the rear fender because my son's GF accidently CRUSHED IT by backing into it. ARGGGGGGGGG! LOL. **** happens, oh well. So I need to match it to the rest of the truck. I'm not partial to PPG, it was simply readily available from my local jobber. SPI is not, so......
I know, primer doesn't make for a good finish coat. But this accident is EXACTLY why I won't topcoat it with nice shiny paint. **** happens to me.....a lot! LOL.
|01-05-2011 06:31 AM|
i feel pretty much the same way
i use a ton of aftermarket parts in my collision shop.
not once have i had any problem with the coating that comes on them.
i sand them,seal them,base,clear and kick out the door.
we live in a small town so most all of my work is repeat customers.
only a few small times i have seen die back,and i blame it manily on me rushing the job.
when you are in production work you don't always have the freakin time to sand all your aftermarket parts down bare and Epoxy
maybe i should but i guarantee all my work forever and until i start to see problems with **** coming off in sheets ill continue to keep on keepin on.
|01-05-2011 05:22 AM|
I thought everybody knew that epoxy primer was the best way to go.over bare metal..
I started using it over 25yrs ago ,until then I used etch primer...
and before that lacquer....Epoxy is much better than etching primer as much as etch was better than lacquer.
I started out using PPGs DP-40 ,It worked great and I used it a few years but it was very expensive. I used almost every kind of primer and epoxy since then and found that SPI is simply the best ,not only does it preform as well as the others it has a few advantages ,mainly its sandable and buildable it can also be used as a sealer. So ,if you have time to let it cure there is no need for any other primer...That is unless your not very experianced with filler work and need a building primer to make everything straight...
What puts SPI over the top is the customer service ,a quick call to their hotline will answer any questions or solve any problems you may have....That is why everyone loves SPI. I have never experiancd any problems at all with their products but that hotline is something else...If you like PPG great but you wont once you try SPI ....I've been in this business for 35 yrs and I've never seen a company like this....do yourself a favor and try it ,then try their clear and you'll be hooked just like us dedicated and loyal customers..When so many Pros recomend the same product ,a smart man will try it....There is no advertising allowed here but lots of guys want to know what we use,like "Who makes the best replacement panels" or "what do you think of."......
|01-04-2011 06:14 PM|
You are right, I have not used SPI. I have used PPG DPLF, the product asked about in the first post of this thread.
"why would you NOT want an epoxy primer on your metal that is impervious to harsh solvents like laquer thinner and brake fluid?"
Simply because when I am painting, I keep lacquer thinner, brake fluid, silicone sprays away from what I am painting. Could it be that this "softness" or "soaking up of solvents" be actually designed in the primer to enhance the adhesion with the next layer of paint that goes on top of it? Once again, it is the topcoat that is designed with chemical resistance in it. If primers had the chemical resistance built in to them, the topcoat would not have as good adhesion.
I would suggest if you are having problems with "topcoats sucking down" you might be applying incompatible products for your topcoats, or you are doing something else wrong. It might be a good idea to read the "compatible topcoats" section of the data sheet of whatever primer you are using.
|01-04-2011 05:22 PM|
why would you NOT want an epoxy primer on your metal that is impervious to harsh solvents like laquer thinner and brake fluid? That is your foundation to your work. If it will wipe of with laquer thinner, it is weak and will soak up solvents.......down the road this is what we call die back. topcoats sucking down into the undercoats. happens all the time, and more times than not gets blamed on the clear or base. If it is possible for thinner to break it down, it is possible for any paint or primer going over top of it to break it down and soak down into it.
AND to the O.P - I would get it off. I just dont trust anything like that, even if they say it is true edp, on exterior body panels. On my projects i usually do all sheetmetal repair and replacing...then send everything back to the blaster and have all the coating removed, no matter what. Then start with one product on the entire car, epoxy.
|01-04-2011 01:31 PM|
|rwa1015||i agree , just do whatever you like, directions are for after it doesn't work correctly anyway, right.|
|01-04-2011 01:20 PM|
|swvalcon||the auto manufacturer stuff is fine but I sure wouldn't trust the china junk they can't even make parts that fit.|
|01-04-2011 12:53 PM|
I don't understand the lack of trust in properly applied ecoat.
Since that's the auto manufacturers use it when they build the cars, seems like it ought to be pretty good?
|01-04-2011 07:48 AM|
|swvalcon||Lacquer thinner will remove almost any paint if you work at it long enough. I just remove any aftermarket e-coat I don't care who's it is and put down epoxy primer. I use spi but that's my chose any good epoxy will work just as well.|
|01-04-2011 06:31 AM|
You should ALWAYS take the coating of any panel that isnt a factory replacement...The chinesse cant even paint a kids toy right...
Dan ,dosen't the paint contain solvents?wouldn't that effect the cheap 1k primers? If the primer is not catyized the slovents in the 1k primer have to evaporate ,Right ? what would happen if it was painted and the paint kept the solvents trapped???? Epoxt primer is simply the bast but all primrs will work its just a matter of how long and how well...
|01-04-2011 12:45 AM|
Antnyl originally asked about PPG primer, even so far as to a specific color of it. He did not ask what brand of primer to use, He did not ask about SPI.
The point that bugs me is the stupid statement that you can remove PPG DPLF with lacquer thinner. That is not a normal use for this product, and to use it as a proof of its quality, or lack thereof, compared to some product that may have been designed for solvent resistance is and I will say it again STUPID!
I do not live in north Texas, but I doubt it rains lacquer thinner there. A primer's resistance to a strong solvent means nothing.
|01-03-2011 11:25 PM|
|01-03-2011 11:16 PM|
You are right, DPLF is a primer. I stand corrected on that.
My point still stands. A primer is not designed to protect against degradation by strong solvents. That is what the top coat does. Even then, I would suggest rubbing almost any paint with a strong solvent like lacquer thinner will cause some degradation, unless the paint was designed to pass this "snake oil barker at a county fair trick"
The reality is that in many cities you cannot even use lacquer thinner anymore because of excessive VOC problems.
Saying a primer will not resist degradation by a strong solvent is like saying it will not hold up to sandblasting. In both cases you are doing something to the coating it was not designed to resist.
Does SPI advertise on this board? Are they a supporter of this forum? Sometimes I wonder if somebody somewhere is getting a benefit by constantly pushing this product line.
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