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How to remove hand painted graphics

4K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  OneMoreTime 
#1 ·
I have a 70s aluminum dragster body hand painted by Jim the painter. (Phila)
Over time the graphics and lettering have become brittle, for lack of better word, some of the paint can be removed with just a brush of my hand and other parts are still well adhered.What would be the best method to strip the body for re paint? I hate to do it but I think it's pretty far gone.
 

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#2 ·
If want to save it you could probably get a few years out of it by applying a few coats of urethane clear over it. If I stripped it I would take LOTS of photos before you do incase it is something you want to redo some day. Have you done a lot of good research on the car's history? You never know you may have a treasure if you leave it alone!

Brian
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have lots of pictures and also have the full history on the the car.

I had a FED chassis I bought in Fla.($500.00), It turned out to be a Don Long, one of eight built 67-68 with hand brake and a foot brake and the only one unaccounted for,one of two built for the Snake,it turned into a bidding war between Hanna, Long, Garlits and others it is now at Don Longs shop. I know what you mean about history! Thanks
 
#6 ·
Well, like I say, does it have any real racing history, is it a famous car in some way, is it worth saving? Not too many of those cars left, I would maybe give the Don Garlits museum a call, never know what you may have.
Brian
 
#10 ·
How about if the enamel had no hardener added? I know I shot plenty of Acrylic Enamel back in the seventies without hardener! Hell, that was another 10 or 12 bucks as I remember. :) I remember when I painted my truck in 77 the paint was about 28 bucks for the gallon (PPG Acr Ena). I did add hardener to that but damn that was my pride and joy so blowing a wad of cash ($40 :D) was worth it.

Brian
 
#13 ·
it will take it off pretty quick even on a rag. like i said try a spot low on the body color. put it on a rag and rub on it. it the color comes off you may have a problem. just be sure the color is clean and not oxidized . but i doubt it will touch the body color.
 
#18 ·
Paint and body work is all greek to me.
I planned to strip the lettering etc. and send it out for a plain Jane white paint job. I have friend of mine who was/is a 1st class sign painter and just about have him talked out of retirement to do the new graphics, he's 74 now and a dying breed.
 
#19 ·
If the under lying paint is adhered to the aluminum and isn't flaky, I would scuff it, shoot a coat of sealer and paint the top coat.

If the one shot letter paint is flaking off or is raised, a orbital sander and some 80 grit, followed with steps of grit to 400, should smooth the way to a coat of sealer/paint.
 
#20 ·
On a job like that and you are going to repaint anyway then a good paint stripper is in order..just make sure it is all neautralized..best is to lay on the stripper and then cover it with those cheapy plastic thro away drop clothes. all the paint should just wash off with soap and water..

just my idea..

Sam
 
#22 ·
Mar hyde makes one. Sem has stripper in its line and I have used Jasco brand as well. main thing is lots of hot water and dawn dish soap and xcrub that puppy real well like you are going to eat off of it to get any residue off before sending it to the painter..You may need to sand it to get an anchor pattern before painting..

Sam
 
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