|01-14-2011 09:44 AM|
Many years ago- at the county fair of all places- I watched a guy run an old 318 Poly MOPAR after removing the oil plug and draining all the oil out, including removing the filter. He was there year after year, same old blue-painted engine and stand, etc..
The whole idea was to show how good his snake oil worked to protect your cars engine.
Those old engines had solid lifters, and likely nice loose bearing clearances plus the engine was never ran at high RPM or under any load. All he would do was give it a short rev now and then, then back to an idle.
|01-14-2011 07:43 AM|
|01-13-2011 07:27 PM|
|01-13-2011 07:17 PM|
|T-bucket23||I saw it done on a Duralube commercial once. They did it with a fire hose|
|01-13-2011 06:29 PM|
|adantessr||I have added a quart of diesel fuel to the crankcase of a gooped up engine after it is up to operating temp and let it IDLE for about 15 minutes with no ill effects and got a lot of gunk out of it. Then I suggest you drop the oil pan and check the main bearings . Probably need to roll in a set and may condsider a set of .001 undersize and plastigage them to make sure they are not too tight and then replace with stock type oil pump. Here's another trick I learned by accident . With a good mechanical gauge installed after the engine is up to temp , take the car for a drive and observe the engine oil pressure under acceleration and then under decelleration. If the pressure comes up under decelleration , you can bet you need a set of main bearings. The higher vacuum under decelleration pulls the crank up and decreases clearance to the upper main bearing halves .|
|01-13-2011 09:34 AM|
I'd keep water out of it. Avoid loads with thinned down oil.
Advance Auto Parts sells melling oil pumps if you want a good brand. (stock, high flow, high pressure, whatever you want. I'd go with stock for your application).
|01-11-2011 11:37 AM|
BG engine Flush
Pour in run engine for 10 Minutes at 2K rpms, drain. Then take a air hose and blow air through the center stem on the oil filter port. pushes out oil in oil pan and lifters... Usually get .5-2 quarts more oil out.
Refill engine with 6 quarts of oil. disconnect injectors crank for a few minutes to prime oil system.
Reconnect injectors drive for 1K miles and repeat.
Done this on a very poorly maintained nissan frontier mountain of gunk in the valve covers, it looks like a soso maintained nissan now. and it doesn't burn any oil.
I do have a pressurized oil injection system that I can pump oil into the lifters after I have purged the engine though.
|01-10-2011 06:51 PM|
|Torque454||diesel fuel, kerosene, paint thinner, all should work ok. They're pretty oily. Diesel fuel is probably the cheapest.|
|01-10-2011 06:49 PM|
|wtatman||I have had several mid 80s pickups that had sludged up engines when I got them. I always pulled the valve covers, intake, and pan and scooped out all that crap with one of my wifes tablespoons, I never told her! Then washed it all down with diesel fuel and a parts brush. Got to have a big pan under there to catch all that though. clean out or replace the pickup tube and replace the oil pump. Never had an engine fail after doing that.|
|01-10-2011 02:36 PM|
I'm really surprised no one else has mentioned the bearing thing. When you have good oil pressure on a cold engine that drops alot when hot, that is a sign that the bearings have excessive tolerance. The block and bearings expand as they heat up and that causes the tolerance to expand and thus the oil pressure to drop.
Had this happen to me before and to some degree, on everything ive ever owned. A new oil pump may help, and a high volume pump might even mask the problem for a while but its a bandaid fix.
I'm not saying that this IS your problem, i DO think that it is, but i AM saying that you shouldnt overlook it and that you should check atleast the main and rod bearings while you have the bottom end open. Scratches and visible copper are not good things to be seeing...
|01-10-2011 02:31 PM|
I'm not endorsing what you propose either but...
What you are talking about is similar to what boat guys ask after they have sunk their boats - they all want to know how much tear down they have to do to get the water out. There are several good threads about various techniques that guys have tried. I believe some of them involve using a lot of ATF but don't take my word for it. Try searching for "sunk motor" on www.socaljetboats.com or a similar site that has 70's style performance boaters on it.
Maybe it will give you some ideas.
|01-10-2011 02:16 PM|
|bigdog7373||I say pull the pan and valve covers and clean them up. Put in a new oil pump. Then fill the motor with oil and put some seafoam in the oil, half a bottle i think. The seafoam breaks down the sludge so it can be circulated through the engine and into the filter where it will be filtered out. After like 200 miles or so, change the oil again and it will be good.|
|01-10-2011 01:04 PM|
There is some good advice here. A few things come to mind, you may want to ask the previous owner. How often was the oil changed? What type of oil sender is he using? How many miles on the engine? What weight of oil was he using when the problem arose?
The oils we have today don't sludge like they used to. I would take DanielC's advice and run it. Once you can take a look at the pan you will know a lot more about the engine.
|01-10-2011 12:34 PM|
Part of your post is a good idea. Do this, and only this:
"Put it back together with a new oil pump, fresh oil and filter. Fire it up, let it run awhile at operating temp, change the oil a couple times and see what happens? I really dont want to dump any $ in this engine. Worth a try?"
While you have the oil pan off it, clean the pan out.
|01-10-2011 07:27 AM|
|345 desoto||Try a quart of Rislone...|
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