|05-26-2013 10:16 PM|
Which paint removal disc to use
Hi Guys, I restore cars , build rods etc, and I also import consumables for restorations. The new "poly strip disc" is an amazing disc, but don't get them too hot or they will clog up. Also there are different colours for different qualities. Always go for the purple ones, they will last longer..You will need three disc's for cleaning door jams etc. Use the poly strip disc first, then use a Zirconia (blue colour) for the tight edges and hard to get places.. A 60grit is good, but this will mark the steel if used too much. The last wheel is the wire brush, or knotted wire brush type. These are my last resort because they tend to spread the paint along and into the surface of the steel. So not as good.
I have the *************************
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|06-07-2011 03:29 PM|
Yea, that's exactly how it reads. A friend of mine has a nicer and larger one that fills up faster than mine with two people working off of it. I recently was told to use Aircraft Stripper to get it down to the metal. I was kind of weary of it at first, but I am completely sold on it after the results I received last night. I'll have the rest of my car stripped down in no time.
What exactly should I be looking for when shopping for a new compressor?
|06-05-2011 11:29 PM|
Since you mentioned '33 gallon' and '6 hp' in the same sentence, I'm going to go out on a limb and guess you have a laughably inflated HP rating and a single stage, 110VAC air compressor? If this assumption is right, that's nothing other than a misleading peak, startup HP rating as it is physically impossible for 110 voltage to make that kind of sustained power, even if your compressor motor was 100% efficient (all these companies got in big trouble some time ago for misleading horsepower ratings on their compressors). My 220V 2-stage compressor is only 3.7 hp.
Where I'm going with that is your compressor has low air storage capacity (only 33 gallons) and low capacity for producing more air to replace that which has been consumed (if my assumptions are correct).
I only say this because it'd be unfortunate for you to go out and buy an expensive DA that still doesn't end up working well for you because you just don't have a compressor with the cahones that a continuously running DA needs.
|06-05-2011 09:53 PM|
|05-30-2011 11:04 PM|
because a grinding disc on an angle grinder is meant to grind. When you are removing paint you are not grinding, you are sanding...you only want to remove paint, not the metal. A flap disc on an angle grinder removes metal and fast. I use an 80 grit flap disc on an angle grinder for grinding down welds only. Do not use this to remove paint.
I have a 60 gallon air compressor with a 3.7 hp motor and it still has to work to keep up with my DA. Prob a mix between a cheap DA and using the wrong DA for the job, but 80 grit on a DA gets me nowhere quickly. Now I'm giving this to you from an at-home DIY approach. Professional body shop guys have good air compressors and good DA's. My preferred tool for stripping paint is a wire wheel or cup on a 4.5" angle grinder. The benefits are it removes paint, primer, rust, and filler faster than any method I've seen. But it covers a much smaller area than a good DA so it may be a wash. It can also get tiring on the hands from the weight and constant vibration, not to mention it throws the wires at you from the cup and they get stuck in your close.
It's still the most used tool in my arsenal for paint and rust removal. I also have an electric orbit sander, pneumatic DA, 80 grit sandpaper sheets and blocks, and a panel spot blaster, and I employ use of all of these for paint and rust removal.
|05-30-2011 10:48 PM|
I'm just curious because I am still learning, but why is an angled grinder not a good idea? I only ask because I have used that with 3" scotch-brite conditioning pads, and it removes paint easily without harming the metal. Am I causing a problem down the road?
|02-15-2011 01:52 PM|
Yeah, when I started this thread I wasn't very informed, but I'm getting there
This is where im at right now......
I have bought various sizes of twisted wire brush for my grinder - for rust removal on the chassis
And a DA with 80 grit - for the paint on the body
There are a couple of patches on my chassis which have been welded up
They're good looking welds, but I wanted to get rid of the patched look
I thought this was impossible until Matt told be about Flap discs, I had thought I'd have to replace the effected areas, but I'm much happier now I know I can smooth them out
I've never seen or heard of flap discs until recently
I didnt think theyd be very 'tough' but then I watched a couple of videos on YouTube - damn they're nasty!
As far as the different flap discs, I was planning on getting the aluminium oxide, as they're cheaper, and the ones without their own thread to screw onto the grinder, again because they're cheaper - I'm guessing I should buy the cheapest ones as I'll go through them pretty quickly
Is that right, should I just see them as a consumable, or would I be better off spending some more money and getting some expensive discs?
|02-15-2011 12:49 PM|
|bonfire||almost sounds like you"re thinking about using an angle grinder with a grinding disc to strip paint off of sheet metal. no way would I do that except with a wire brush. use a d/a sander with 80 grit to strip paint|
|02-14-2011 08:32 AM|
Should I go for Aluminium Oxide flap discs, or Zirconium?
Does it make any difference?
|01-24-2011 07:40 PM|
|01-24-2011 03:58 PM|
|Jon||The "Tools" section of our Rust wiki article lists a few recommended discs from 3M.|
|01-24-2011 03:38 PM|
80 or coarser, all will work
depends on how smooth you want it
|01-24-2011 03:30 PM|
What grit flap disc should I use for dressing my welds?
I can get 40, 60, 80, and 120
|01-21-2011 09:23 AM|
At present I'm looking at removing surface rust and flaking paint from my chassis
It's a basic frame, with just a few brackets and outriggers on the two main frames
|01-21-2011 09:01 AM|
|KMatch||Save the flap disks for tougher areas - rust, welds, filler. They can warp or remove metal if not careful and will round corners and body lines. The oxides work pretty good for paint and even rust. Get plenty of them! You can use from 1 to several for just a hood, so plan ahead. I hardly ever use wire wheels, but that's just me - if I were fighting undercoating or tight areas and smaller parts, I'd likely use them more. You'll find out what works for your style.|
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