|02-22-2011 08:37 PM|
|02-22-2011 08:27 PM|
|crdnblu||NO reason to go with any larger gauge than existing, when you splice/extend your wiring to get to your console. Just make sure that your all connections are solid, & again, I recommend using split-loom, or equivalent, to protect the wiring. (nag, nag, nag.....)|
|02-22-2011 06:03 PM|
One last que: I have got a complete switch box for both seats, (Console) I am going to make my own wiring harness to make this thing work, my que: is I know 10 guage is good for power seats, but my wires coming out of my control panel are really small guage(Circuit board) It won't be a problem splicing to them, but will that be o.k. to do it that way? Thanks again, Dana
|02-19-2011 09:55 AM|
|02-19-2011 09:45 AM|
Bucket Seats Wiring Harness?
I made mine. Reason? That's pretty much what the factory did.....When I pulled my seats out of the donor Eldorado, the factory STOCK main wiring leads from the two bucket seats (12V, & Ground) were soldered together, then shrink-wrapped, leading into a factory connector, then to the circuit breaker/fuse box.
For our street rod application(s) 10 gauge 12V, & ground wiring is the size to use for the offered 30 amp load. Either use the proper sized butt-connectors, or solder the connections if you prefer, but make sure to SHRINK-WRAP the connections, regardless. For further protection, I would also split-loom the entire harness, as the seats are one of the biggest amp draws in any vehicle.
My seat wiring goes to one of these, or you could use something comparable (pic):
|02-15-2011 07:01 PM|
|39chevy||Both seats seem to fine, WHERE would I find a wiring Harness just to attach both buckets together? Thanks|
|02-11-2011 06:10 PM|
|39chevy||Thanks 4 all the help, I should be good to go, I did purchase the control swith, thanks again!|
|02-11-2011 09:52 AM|
Cadillac Heat & Lumbar Module
Here's a link to one for sale, if needed:
|02-11-2011 09:04 AM|
39 Chevy.......Some added info/corrections:
-The 12V power connection is indeed 30 Amp, not the lower rating that I had given B/4. All diagrams that I have show a 30 amp circuit breaker supporting BOTH seats, combined.
-Attached is a PDF file wiring diagram for a '97 Eldorado. I believe that you'll find (as I did), that very few changes have occurred through the years, following yours. If your seats have heat, & lumbar support built-in, you'll need the Cadillac console mounted control module, & wiring harness, too, as these controls were NOT mounted on the seats in the early to mid 90's. (Attachment [A red 12V is shown; same as your orange 12V wire.]
|02-10-2011 01:42 PM|
This is my battery. Notice the fuse between the two 6 volt batteries.
(This is also a test of getting a picture in here.)
The wire harness on the battery is for testing boat trailer lights.
I also recently used the battery to run the electric window regulator for my for Aerostar to a position that would make it easier to slip into the door.
|02-10-2011 12:54 PM|
|EOD Guy||If you need a small 12v sealed battery by all means purchase one, otherwise a charger will provide a good strong 12 source with low amps, why are low amps important? if you cross the wrong set of wires ie..... short them out, you won't fry the motor!|
|02-10-2011 12:24 PM|
|DanielC||I use a sealed Gel cell 12 volt battery for bench tests. It is a battery that came out of a UPS supply for computers. These batteries are also very common in emergency power out lighting in factories, schools, and many other public buildings.|
|02-10-2011 09:47 AM|
Cadillac Power Seats
OK, here's some info for you, based on my research into my 90's Cadillac Eldorado buckets:
"blk has 2 wires, blk and orange w/blk stripe": Blk is ground; orange w/blk stripe is 12V constant power, typically fused @ 20-25 amps.
"blue plug has 4 wires, pink w/blk stripe, green w/white stripe, blue w/white stripe, white w/blk stripe": This connector goes to the Cadillac seat control switch assembly (pic). From my experience, it will be VERY difficult to operate the seat without the Cadillac button assembly, as it contains a basic printed circuit board to cause multiple on/off actions when each button is moved. I found my switches on E-Bay.
I would also suggest buying a small sealed scooter, or motorcycle battery, for bench testing 12V electrical components; they give more consistent voltage than a battery charger. Attach some made-up 12 gauge test leads, with covered/protected alligator clips, & you can test any NEW circuit, anywhere on your ride.
|02-07-2011 06:54 PM|
See attached schematics of power seats.
|02-07-2011 05:34 PM|
|EOD Guy||12v battery chargers work great for a pwr supply when doing bench tests|
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