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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-01-2011 08:03 AM
DanTwoLakes Those belts are generally considered a stop gap until you can replace it with an actual one piece belt, but you are right, they are tougher than tough.
You will never have to replace a belt on a sewing machine once you get one the right length. You never will have a situation where you're sewing at a constant speed for any length of time. I use 3VX cog belts on all 3 of my sewing machines.
07-31-2011 09:05 PM
Old Fool speaking of V-belts, have any of you ever used the segmented type v-belt?

They run very smooth and have a long lifespan as compared to a standard v-belt.

I was a millwright in a very large industrial setting, 67 acres under the roof and we had a lot of machines running of v-belts. I changed out lord know how many v-belts over the 30 years of my employment there. (all as a millwright)

I never once replaced a broken segment belt. I do not recall replacing any of them as a scheduled maintenance it either. the darn things lasted a looooong time.

The belts we used were a steel rivet and leather (brammer)design.

the belts in the link I am posting are a segmented belt but not of the exact design I have experience with. I am posting the link to show the concept of the segmented belt.

when I acquire my sewing machine I will be adding a servo motor if it doesn't have one and will be putting on a segmented belt.

http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_per...wist_home.aspx

fyi, cheesy as they look, dont think that a segmented belt is not for hi hp/torque applications. many of the ones I installed and removed were powered by 100hp electric motors spinning 5000# flywheels. 6 belts were used in that application.
07-31-2011 12:46 PM
DanTwoLakes It is not top of the line, but would probably still be better than the clutch motor you have now. Check out the specs on this one: SEW QUIET 4000 As far as I'm concerned, this is the best one out there. Yes, it's $65 more, but the shipping is free and it is well worth it.
07-31-2011 12:16 PM
bentwings Dan,

I just ran across this servo motor. Is this any good or just cheap junk.???

http://www.southstarsupply.com/catal...oducts_id=2730

I'm going to call them Monday and see if the price still holds and more info.
07-25-2011 10:55 PM
PaulG Dan, you are intent on having the last word. And shall you will.
07-24-2011 06:45 PM
DanTwoLakes You're not offending me at all. You are perfectly free to power your sewing machine any way you want. I think it would do you well not to say things like .... "For $60 you can have a drive system that will kill any gear reduction servo motor on the market. If you don't need real fast speed, this will give you maximum control." .... Your power system, as ingenious as it is, will not out perform a clutch motor, much less a servo motor. My point in this whole discussion is to point out that learning to use the sewing machine as it was designed is a better alternative. Sure you can slow the machine down at first to get the hang of using it, but learning to slip the clutch or being able to control the machine with the foot pedal is the ultimate goal.
While nobody, myself included, needs to sew super fast, slowing the machine down so that it barely crawls is a waste of a good sewing machine. If you wanted to sew one stitch every 15 seconds, you could do that with the hand wheel and saved yourself the $60, and all the time and energy that went along with it.
07-24-2011 04:55 PM
PaulG Dan, there's no reason to get upset because I used an unorthodox way of powering my machine. It's not like I took a perfectly good servo motor off it and replaced it with a drill. But even if I had, so what? I bought the head and needed a way to power it. This way was cheaper and I'll bet if you used it, you would not think it was a "Go cart engine in a car". And I can put a larger pulley on it also to make it go faster just like the servo motor. But that really doesn't matter because it works for me just fine. If everyone else thinks it's the dumbest thing they ever saw, well, that's OK. You’re certainly not going to hurt me feelings.

It's just that sometimes, reading how someone did one thing, gives you ideas on how to do something else. Someone might say "that's a dumb way to power a sewing machine, but that would work great for my bead roller". Or whatever.

Anyway, if I offended you, I am sorry. Your "How to" articles and info on this forum are a HUGE source of great info for many people including myself.

Thank you

Paul
07-20-2011 08:07 AM
DanTwoLakes The way to slow the machine down and still have it work like it should is to put a smaller pulley on the sewing machine's motor, and/or use a servo motor. Then when you got better at operating the machine you could go back to a larger pulley. My servo motors come with two different pulleys, one is 100mm and the other is 90mm. Cutting the diameter down to 45mm cuts the speed in half. Adjusting the servo motor's controls and learning to operate the foot pedal would make the machine crawl if you wanted it to.

If you look back at the first few posts of this thread that's what you'll find. Both of those suggestions have been offered here dozens of times in a dozen different threads. They are the simplest ways to go about it.

I'll ask again: When you first learned to drive did you use the car just like it was made or did you put a go cart engine under the hood?
07-19-2011 07:58 PM
PaulG Once more comes my question: Why not just learn to use the machine like it was intended?

Well I guess you could. And that would be fine. And really makes allot more sense too. But, then, there would be no point in having a thread titled "How to slow down your sewing machine". Or I guess you could still have a thread titled "How to slow down your sewing machine while still learning to use the machine like it was intended". Now that would be cool!
07-19-2011 09:08 AM
DanTwoLakes A stitch every 15 seconds? Why not just turn the wheel by hand?

Once more comes my question: Why not just learn to use the machine like it was intended?
07-18-2011 09:30 PM
PaulG
1/2" Drill

Sorry, meant to in include one of the pedal. The pedal is a cheep on/off that I put the drill trigger into. Was very easy to do. The gear looking thing is a one way clutch from a starter motor. The teeth do nothing but could not be removed. It was needed so that you can turn the hand wheel freely.

A gear reduced servo motor would possibly work better, but I am not sure exactly how except that max speed is about as fast as a home machine. It will go through 8 layers of expanded vinyl with 207 thread at a stitch every 15 seconds and not complain at all. Anyway, for $55 total just another option.


07-18-2011 12:46 AM
Dana Barlow Looks like your right Dan on foot pedel,I guess I was thinking the trigger for drill was also a speed control trigger,so putting a nee arm on to it would be pretty good way to run it. You know no extra stuff that way. Still claver set up at lest.
07-17-2011 05:13 PM
DanTwoLakes That's not a knee switch, it's the knee lift for the foot, it's just been extended out in front of the cart the machine is on. It looks like there's a foot pedal on the other end of the wire coming from the drill that you can see in the first picture. It also looks like there is a pick-up on the gear next to the pulley that would provide the feed back to give the drill variable control. There's no other reason for there to be a gear there.
07-17-2011 10:51 AM
Dana Barlow I'm impressed by your inventiveness,nee switch and all,amzing work
Thanks for photos
07-16-2011 04:49 PM
PaulG
1/2" Drill







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