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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-19-2011 11:42 AM
gearhead1964
Metal Building Insulation

For anyone that finds this thread looking for insulation info... if you live in a humid climate like I do, steel buildings sweat/condensation and mold can be a problem when it gets in between fiberglass insulation. The best insulation for a metal buiding is closed cell spray on foam. It sprays on and seals water tight and forms a barier so condensation can't get through. It's expensive, I've been doing a lot of looking around for DIY spray on foam kits for my steel building... and for 2000 sq ft area it looks like it could cost me about $3000... But I've gone this far with my "dream shop" and after waiting till I retired for a nice shop, I'm going to do it right. Closed cell foam actually works better than the fiberglass batting.
NOTE: Open cell spray on foam won't work, it won't seal out the moisture and you will end up with a big mess and a big waste of money. Just my 2 cents... for what it's worth.
02-21-2011 09:48 AM
SteelBuildings
Metal Building Insulation

There are several ways to insulate a metal building, depending on the R value of the project. Insulation usually comes in 3", 4" or 6" thickness this will depend on what R value you are seeking, I would recommend http://insulation.org to find the exact R value suitable for your project. If you are looking for a more custom insulation to reach an R value of lets say R30, I would recommend contacting a custom metal buildings company *********************************
02-20-2011 07:19 PM
timothale
drywall covered

in the old days some of the foams had to be completely covered with 1/2 drywall. the nice thing about the foam is it seals out all the air leaks. , A cousin had the interior of his garage spray sealed , I think his buddy sprayed what was left at the end of the day, then later netted and blow in before drywall.
02-20-2011 06:14 PM
trees If the spray foam is approved for occupied buildings, then it must be fire rated.

Trees
02-20-2011 09:21 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
The family farm has a 40 x 60 : metal culvert type building with sprayed on foam I wondered about the fire safety since it is exposed. My wife's cousin used to build wood stoves in the winter, it never caught on fire with all the welding they were doing.
I was wondering the same thing about mine...but its a two part system I believe its flame retardant when dry,I wouldnt try getting a flame near it until then though...
02-20-2011 09:08 AM
timothale
spray foam.

The family farm has a 40 x 60 : metal culvert type building with sprayed on foam I wondered about the fire safety since it is exposed. My wife's cousin used to build wood stoves in the winter, it never caught on fire with all the welding they were doing. We used to heat it with a kerosene type torpedo heater to keep the produce from freezing until it was sold. Cost to heat VS sales potential VS donate what's left to the Food bank and take the tax deduction.
02-20-2011 08:39 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre
those roll over the framing batts are pretty worthless.
plan on spending a bunch to heat a metal building.
if it's one of those culvert type buildings, spray on is your only choice.
unless it's a big building, just frame up a garage.
Spray on is the only way to go they'll spray everything and that stuff sticks to everything wood ,steel ,concrete they used it in my shop and I love it its sealed up tight...it expands so it fills gaps and it drys hard as a rock...
02-10-2011 07:01 AM
hp246
Quote:
Originally Posted by trees
That is a specialty product. Note it is for radiant heat and the R value of 3.7-XX is predicated to how much radiant heat you are dealing with. Metal buildings mostly deal with convection heat and you will be wanting R values in the 17+ range in Maryland.

Trees
Yeah, that's was my understanding, but in reading the reviews, I noticed one of the reviewers used it in a steel building/pole barn and was extremely happy with it. It was just a thought based on that review. I like the price and ease of installation if the product is viable.
02-10-2011 06:50 AM
trees That is a specialty product. Note it is for radiant heat and the R value of 3.7-XX is predicated to how much radiant heat you are dealing with. Metal buildings mostly deal with convection heat and you will be wanting R values in the 17+ range in Maryland.

Trees
02-09-2011 10:15 PM
hp246 Great question Daveh. I've been considering insulating my pole barn, but just never saw a product that I thought was suitable, including price. Saw this stuff http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Ma...3#BVRRWidgetID

Anyone try it? It seems to be reviewed very well.
02-09-2011 11:59 AM
enginenine I agree with above post about the spray foam.
02-08-2011 07:05 PM
930dreamer Have you looked at spray foam, it costs more but to have every inch covered would be great.
02-08-2011 10:46 AM
trees The insulation I used on my 40X60 metal building was 6" thick by 8' wide and completely enclosed in white plastic. As stated earlier, it installs by hanging on sidewall or over the roof purloins before screwing the metal to the frame. Though there is some loss of insulation at these joints, the overall effect, cost and effort is well worth it. The building supplier , Texas Metal Building subbed out the insulation and it was shipped from a ware house in Charlotte, NC. Don't remember the name of the supplier, but may be able to find it in my records if you like. TMB provided very good instructions for all phases of the construction, including the insulation. On thing they did was provide a 4' wide roll for the first run on the roof This let you install the first run of tin, working off scaffolds, lifts and or ladders. After that run is installed, you can then work off the installed tin. This work is a three man minimum job for the side walls and 4 man minimum for the roof. The job goes faster with 2 additional helpers to act as cutters, gophers etc. My son, Bud and I did the 12' side walls and portions of the end walls, but because of the 6-12 pitch of the roof, I hired the pros to do it. They were a 4 man team, complimented by the three of us. Smart move on my part because there is some skill as well as cat like dexterity involved and we two old farts did not have enough of that to do it safely.

As mentioned earlier by another poster, I would do a cost comparison of the rolled vice spray on. Regardless which you do, remember that the insulation works 24/7. I am very pleased with the additional coolness of the shop in the summer as well as the additional warmth and reduced heating costs in the winter.

You may want to go back to some of my threads for pictures and comments on Building New Shop.

Trees
02-08-2011 08:49 AM
Steel
Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill
i used 2'x8'x 3" styrofoam sheets. did the spray foam in between to close up gaps... but i got a heck of a deal too.. a local company was re-doing the roof of a school and i got just over 300 sheets for $300 bucks.. i did mine, and brothers, and nephews garages.. but it went up very fast..bill
Wow!! You weren't kidding, that was one hell of a deal!!!
02-08-2011 08:25 AM
delawarebill
insulation

i used 2'x8'x 3" styrofoam sheets. did the spray foam in between to close up gaps... but i got a heck of a deal too.. a local company was re-doing the roof of a school and i got just over 300 sheets for $300 bucks.. i did mine, and brothers, and nephews garages.. but it went up very fast..bill
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