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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> 1970 nova changing 8.2 to 8.5 soon
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-27-2011 05:59 PM
gearjammer38
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
The girdle cover is a nice addition, but I wouldn't spend the extra to get it unless you intend to shove more than 550hp through the rear or hit it with a trans brake or high rpm clutch drops with a manual trans.

Certainly doesn't hurt anything if you want to have it however.
Alright it can wait, i wasnt really too sure about them and if it was a necessity but i can always save up and swap it in later
02-27-2011 04:05 PM
ericnova72 The girdle cover is a nice addition, but I wouldn't spend the extra to get it unless you intend to shove more than 550hp through the rear or hit it with a trans brake or high rpm clutch drops with a manual trans.

Certainly doesn't hurt anything if you want to have it however.
02-27-2011 04:02 PM
big gear head The pinion nut and cover gasket will be in the installation kit, but the yoke and kit will not have a pinion washer with them. You will probably have to get the washer from another rear end or get one new.
02-27-2011 07:26 AM
gearjammer38 i think i have my whole parts list for the posi, can anyone give me some more info if i missed something? the rear end housing is completely empty and nothing came with it besides the brake setup.

1. posi unit
2.ring & pinion gears
3. ring & pinion gear install kit
4. pinion yolk
5. pinion nut
6. axles
7. axle seals/axle bearings
8. wheel studs
9. differential cover
10.differential cover gasket
11. differential cover bolts

does anyone recomend an differential cover like this one from summit ?

or should i stick with a stock style one?
02-26-2011 04:47 PM
big gear head Yes, there are 2 more in the differential bearing bore inside the center casting.
02-26-2011 09:27 AM
gearjammer38
Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head

Here is one from the old fixture that I used. They are just round steel that fits the ID of the housing end or bearing bore and the OD of the shaft.

that picture helped alot, now i understand what you mean by pucks. i assume you made similar ones that bolt into the housing?
02-25-2011 05:55 PM
ericnova72
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearjammer38
thanks for the help everyone, but i don't plan on narrowing the rear at all or changing to ford 9" ends, this will all be done in my garage by myself so i want to keep it simple and not get over my head. im still a little confused on how to make the "pucks" can anyone post pictures?
This will require a machinist and a lathe to make them. Round stock turned to the proper OD to match the OD of the bearing race, then drilled and reamed or bored hole through the center match the diameter of your center bar. Mine are 1-1/4" thick.

Like a hockey puck with a hole through the middle, and the outside turned to the size of the bearing bore it is going into.
02-25-2011 05:13 PM
big gear head
Here is one from the old fixture that I used. They are just round steel that fits the ID of the housing end or bearing bore and the OD of the shaft.
02-25-2011 05:04 PM
gearjammer38 thanks for the help everyone, but i don't plan on narrowing the rear at all or changing to ford 9" ends, this will all be done in my garage by myself so i want to keep it simple and not get over my head. im still a little confused on how to make the "pucks" can anyone post pictures?
02-25-2011 04:52 PM
big gear head http://mittlerbros.com/rear-end-narrowing.php This is the housing fixture that I use now. I used a borrowed one that was made by a tool and die maker for years and then decided to buy my own. I use it to check the housing, but when welding the tubes to the center casting you don't get much movement in the tubes. I weld about 1 1/2 inch on one side and rotate it to the other side until I get all the way around. I was a DOD aircraft certified welder for about 10 years, so I got pretty good at welding.
02-25-2011 04:41 PM
ericnova72
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearjammer38
so ive got to cut the end of the axles off?
No, it isn't necessary. I didn't think about that fact as I am always using mine to either narrow the housing, or removing the stock axle bearing ends and replacing them with the common Big Bearing Ford 9" end.

The BBF housing end is the most popular for racing, gives you a big bearing pressed on the axle eliminating the need for C-clip eliminators on c-clip axle retention rear ends like 10 and 12-bolt GM and 8.8" Ford, and has the most options for disc brake conversions.

If you are just using it for checking a housing during and after welding you just need pucks for the carrier bearings and to fit in place in the stock axle bearing ends. Put the bar through the two installed carrier bearing pucks and then use the axle bearing pucks to confirm the alignment of the ends by sliding them over the bar to meet up with the factory housing bearing ends.

My alignment bar is about 6' long, so I can make nearly any width rear axle needed for hotrod cars and trucks.
02-25-2011 04:05 PM
gearjammer38
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
I can help you here. I've made one.

Bar is round stock, 1-1/8" to 1-1/4", I used T-GAP shafting(Turned, Ground, And Polished). You then need to machine steel or aluminum "pucks" to go in place of the carrier and axle bearings that have a hole the size of your shaft through the middle. Once the carrier bearing replacement pucks are placed in the housing and the rear caps installed the bar is placed through the housing. Then put the axle bearing pucks in the housing ends and slide them onto the main shaft. This way all the bearing bores are kept in alignment. Be sure to align the axle bearing ends before welding so the brake cylinder bleeders will end up at the highest point when the axle housing is in the car.
so ive got to cut the end of the axles off?
02-25-2011 01:57 PM
ericnova72 I can help you here. I've made one.

Bar is round stock, 1-1/8" to 1-1/4", I used T-GAP shafting(Turned, Ground, And Polished). You then need to machine steel or aluminum "pucks" to go in place of the carrier and axle bearings that have a hole the size of your shaft through the middle. Once the carrier bearing replacement pucks are placed in the housing and the rear caps installed the bar is placed through the housing. Then put the axle bearing pucks in the housing ends and slide them onto the main shaft. This way all the bearing bores are kept in alignment. Be sure to align the axle bearing ends before welding so the brake cylinder bleeders will end up at the highest point when the axle housing is in the car.
02-25-2011 12:21 PM
gearjammer38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cranky1
Any time you weld on a rear end, you're going to get some movement. As for a jig, I don't weld with mine in place but I do stick it in to see which way it moves then weld accordingly cause if you weld with the jig in place, you might end up having a hard time getting it back out. And if I'm welding on new bearing housings....they are welded last.
can you go into more detail about this? whats on the inside? is that just a thick bar? does it run the entire length of the housing?
02-25-2011 11:31 AM
cranky1 Any time you weld on a rear end, you're going to get some movement. As for a jig, I don't weld with mine in place but I do stick it in to see which way it moves then weld accordingly cause if you weld with the jig in place, you might end up having a hard time getting it back out. And if I'm welding on new bearing housings....they are welded last.
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