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Street Beast builds......Tips, problems and solutions.

292K views 804 replies 73 participants last post by  shortsteven618 
#1 ·
Street Beasts is out of business, so is their tech support.
A couple of us thought it might be a good idea to have a thread where
tips, questions and solutions regarding these car kits can be discussed and hopefully solved. We seem to have a number of newer members with these kits and a number of members that have built these cars and have solved many of the problems. This thread would give these members to get together with their common problems and solutions.

We did have some employees of the company on our board a while back. Their input would be welcome I am sure too.

BTW, this thread is about the build, not the company that produced these kits. The mods will be monitoring the thread and talk of the company and policies of the company will be edited out or deleted, whatever it takes to keep it just about the build......so, lets keep it that way.

Since this thread will discuss a number of different subjects, from body to framework to suspensions etc, I thought it might be best to have this thread in the lounge.
 
#102 · (Edited)
Hi guys. I just found this site (and thread) and thought I'd throw in my .02 worth of info.
I bought a '89 CMC '34 coupe a few years ago. I got just the body and frame. no hardware. I documented the whole build on cardomain.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2466850/1934-ford-coupe
I believe I have the only fenderless CMC on the planet sitting on a reproduction '34 frame.

I decided to go this route after talking with a builder of the SB's and was a builder for CMC. He told me the CMC designed frames were not strong enough and flexed so much that the doors would hit the jams when going over a curb. The newer frames have more framing under the dash to help with the flexing.

I do alot of fiberglass and was up for the challenge. This route may not be an option to most stuck with these bodies but it's how I solved my problems.
Here's a couple pictures from the link listed.
 

Attachments

#104 ·
street beast builds

ffas23 mentioned that you can use 14" wheels, Now I don't want to start this again but no matter what you use you can't get the fenders over the tires.
So IMO the car will sit to high in front, not give you the true street rod look. ffas23 likes the look he has, and that is fine with me, I just wanted to make the point that you can't get the car low. Both of us have old frames, so that might have changed. Like Dave said do a mock up.

Bob
 
#105 ·
HotRod 9152 said:
I can help a little, I still have all the manuals and video of the build, the car I have is a 34Classic Motor Carriages the same company, Street Beast. Just let me know if you need the Info. :) My car has a 302 with a B&M blower, and is a tight fit for the car making it hard to clean an work on. I have a friend that has the same car with a 350 chevy and he has a lot more room to work around. Just might help with choseing a motor.
i am new on this thread. a freind of mine is trying to sell me his 34 kit car he is gaving up on it. he wants 6500 for it all two eng, is it worth that for me to buy and put it together i have built alot of street rods but not a kit . not doing anything right now this winter. would you help if i get this car with your info thanks
 
#106 · (Edited)
street beast builds

pre 48 said:
i am new on this thread. a freind of mine is trying to sell me his 34 kit car he is gaving up on it. he wants 6500 for it all two eng, is it worth that for me to buy and put it together i have built alot of street rods but not a kit . not doing anything right now this winter. would you help if i get this car with your info thanks
I'm not hotrod 9152, But that's what this thread was setup for to help people. With that said, what have you built, steel or glass cars. I'm not trying to bash these kits, but they are not that easy to put together, the frames should be beefed up some, the welds should be looked at good or re-welded, which is what I did to mine. The body should be looked at, check to see if the back fenders are the same, Mine weren't, check and see if the drop going toward the engine are the same. If you are getting two engines, that helps, but what are you getting with the car, just saying you are getting the kit and two engines, that could be a good deal or bad. Post some pictures of what you are getting and we can go from there, there are people on here willing to help, that have built these cars.

Bob
 
#107 ·
pre 48 said:
i am new on this thread. a freind of mine is trying to sell me his 34 kit car he is gaving up on it. he wants 6500 for it all two eng, is it worth that for me to buy and put it together i have built alot of street rods but not a kit . not doing anything right now this winter. would you help if i get this car with your info thanks
If you built plenty of Street Rods as you claim this would be no different. Many would be happy to help with questions here on this forum but being you built quite a few Street Rods as you say I don't see you or anyone else who may of did the same needing much help. Makes no difference that it is called a kit. I basically only received the '34 Coupe Body and Frame from CMC back during the early 90's as many parts were backordered or never shipped to me being CMC sold from a empty shelf so to say back then. If the so called kit you are talking about has the body, frame and all parts concerning the frame and all loose fiberglass parts concerning the body that come with the kit you are good to go and $6500 is a steal just for that as far as I am concerned especially if you are getting a complete kit. Today or should I say recently before Street Beast closed down the complete kit went for just under $20k delivered if I remember correctly. When I purchased mine back in '92 my cost on a complete kit was at or around $10.5k before I made any arrangements for shipping that I handled on my own. I had the frame and any loose frame parts shipped first and paid someone I know who ran produce back and forth from Florida to N.J.to pick it up for me. Did the same when I was ready for the Glass Body and parts associated with the body. In this last shipment I was short many parts and then CMC eventually went out of business shortly after. I didn't pay for all of the items that I was short on so I paid much lower then the $10.5 deal I made with CMC in the end. If I remember correctly I paid right around what your friend is asking for this kit you talk about. Most of my car as I have mentioned before on this forum is built with aftermarket parts from the Grill back. Never liked the CMC,SB grill in the first place anyway so not getting it in the list of shorted parts along with the shorted factory bumpers didn't bother me a bit.
 
#108 · (Edited)
kit car

pre 48 said:
i am new on this thread. a freind of mine is trying to sell me his 34 kit car he is gaving up on it. he wants 6500 for it all two eng, is it worth that for me to buy and put it together i have built alot of street rods but not a kit . not doing anything right now this winter. would you help if i get this car with your info thanks
he has everything . rad, ford rear end. must,2 front end gages, shifter,wiring streering col, wheels and tires exh. black int, gas tank windows, and everthing that came with kit. two motors one 327 and a 283 bored out to 302 and tran. by this board i don;t think it would be a good buy. i have built all steel car in the pass. i am retired now and just looking for something that i can build to keep me busy and mybe sell when done . but what i see on this board you cannot sell one of these car after it done . is this right or wrong. i have seen some of this car at carshow but never look ed at one
 
#109 ·
pre 48 said:
he has everything . rad, ford rear end. must,2 front end gages, shifter,wiring streering col, wheels and tires exh. black int, gas tank windows, and everthing that came with kit. two motors one 327 and a 283 bored out to 302 and tran. by this board i don;t think it would be a good buy. i have built all steel car in the pass. just sold a 37 chev ground up everthing new for 31000 and i am retired now and just like to have something to do but don.t want to waste money on something that well not sell when its done, thanks
These SB cars take a lot of time to make "right" plus a fair amount of dollars. Then the worst part, the possible financial hit when you sell. But, with that said and with what is being offered, a very nice car could be built.
 
#111 ·
Street beast builds

pre 48 said:
he has everything . rad, ford rear end. must,2 front end gages, shifter,wiring streering col, wheels and tires exh. black int, gas tank windows, and everthing that came with kit. two motors one 327 and a 283 bored out to 302 and tran. by this board i don;t think it would be a good buy. i have built all steel car in the pass. i am retired now and just looking for something that i can build to keep me busy and mybe sell when done . but what i see on this board you cannot sell one of these car after it done . is this right or wrong. i have seen some of this car at carshow but never look ed at one
To me it's a good buy if , you are willing to spend some money to get things that will make it easier to sell, if that is what you are doing. What the car kit sold for in the end, and what they sold for in the late 80s, you are getting a great deal. you didn't get an engine with the kit, let alone two, you didn't get a rearend, if you are getting all the front end that's something you didn't get, shifter, steering column, or tranny. So you are money ahead there.

There are things IMO, that have to change to get the car to sit right, ffas23 and myself don't agree on this but I think the car sits to high in front, I have been around hot rods a long time and built a lot of them and unless you are trying to get a gasser look, the fenders always come down over the tire some.

These are not easy car to build, But you can end up with a nice looking car if you take your time, and depending on what you want. Don't think you will get rich on it, The car market is very soft right now. Change a few things, re-do some things like the frame, IMO the frame is a little weak and the welds are not that great, to suit me. You can build it by the book or build it on your own, On mine I went on my own, changed a lot of things and built it how I wanted it to look. I started mine along time ago, pushed in the corner a lot, to work on other cars, but I will get it done this summer or fall.

It's your choice as to buy it or not, and if you want to do what it takes to build it. If it were any other car where you had to buy all the parts, it is a very good deal. So if you have built other cars this one should be not that much different, as long as you know you might have to change some things.

We will help you if you get it.

Bob
 
#112 ·
I think 6500 for every thing is a good price. hells bell the two motors and the tranny cost that . That said the 34 BEAST as most ever thing else will have its flaws and yes they do set a bit high as Bob said at lest for some's taste but as you have built more then one you provably know that a snip and weld back can fix a lot. Just remember if the book said to sand to fit they an't joking. Good luck if you decide to build it. :thumbup:

OLDROD
 
#113 ·
street beast builds

39 OLDROD said:
I think 6500 for every thing is a good price. hells bell the two motors and the tranny cost that . That said the 34 BEAST as most ever thing else will have its flaws and yes they do set a bit high as Bob said at lest for some's taste but as you have built more then one you provably know that a snip and weld back can fix a lot. Just remember if the book said to sand to fit they an't joking. Good luck if you decide to build it. :thumbup:

OLDROD
They have the short A arms now wich might get him down in front it is close,

Bob
 
#114 ·
35terraplane said:
They have the short A arms now wich might get him down in front it is close,

Bob
I was not aware of that Bob I wounder if that is what we got from SOUTHERN ROD as they did ask what we were building. As for the rear as I said before we used a 95 8.8 MUSTANG GT rear end that fit fine .We did get a set of CENTER LINE RIMS with a 1/2" more back spacing then SB called for and the tires fit under the finder just like you and my self like. The only rub we got was when my hard headed brother tried two tires one size to tall we traded them and fix that. :thumbup:

OLDROD
 
#115 ·
street beast builds

39 OLDROD said:
I was not aware of that Bob I wounder if that is what we got from SOUTHERN ROD as they did ask what we were building. As for the rear as I said before we used a 95 8.8 MUSTANG GT rear end that fit fine .We did get a set of CENTER LINE RIMS with a 1/2" more back spacing then SB called for and the tires fit under the finder just like you and my self like. The only rub we got was when my hard headed brother tried two tires one size to tall we traded them and fix that. :thumbup:

OLDROD
They are not that much shorter but enough to get the car looking right. I also have 2" dropped spindles, Mustang road racing springs that lower the car 1 3/4 " and I changed the body mount to lower it some. I like them low. The back I have a jag rearend, it is not as wide so I have plenty of room back there.

Bob
 
#116 ·
Street Beast builds

Greetings,
Well, I am new to this forum, but I am in the process of finishing up my 34 three window. It has been a long journey. First thing I did, was throw away the manual!! If you use all of the junk yard parts they tell you to get, you will end up with a junk yard car.

These kits are not for the un-itiated. They are hard to assemble, and make things fit properly. I have gone through 2 gallons of epoxy resin, and around 20 yards of cloth. There were two things that were the hardest to do. Hang the doors so the body lines matched up, and install the headliner. I cut the head liner in half, welded in more support backing, and screwed in into place. I think each door took me in excess of a week each. The windows in the doors were done like a regular car door. Glass run channel, belt line rubber and fuzzy strip. If you install the windows like they suggest, all you will hear while driving is wind howl, as nothing is sealed.

I would not use another one of these. But I have one, I am going to finish it, and I will never sell it off. The cost is pretty steep, but then what isn't these days. I got pretty lucky, and the body was pretty straight. They did lie to me about the rear end and tire sizes. Should have narrowed the rear end by 4 inches or so. I ended up getting custom made wheels, with a great deal of back space, So they fit the wheel wells properly.

I had to re-weld a lot of the frame. the pockets for the upper control arms on the rear end, were in the wrong place. the frame is built so as to make it hard to get the exhaust out. Has to hang under the frame.

When it is all said and done, this is a pretty hard car to build. I have looked at a lot of them. And the skill level of the builder was always apparent. some looked really nice, some did not. But they were all proud to have completed them. That is the main thing.
Wayne
 
#117 · (Edited)
Street Beast build

pipedoctor said:
Greetings,
Well, I am new to this forum, but I am in the process of finishing up my 34 three window. It has been a long journey. First thing I did, was throw away the manual!! If you use all of the junk yard parts they tell you to get, you will end up with a junk yard car.

These kits are not for the un-itiated. They are hard to assemble, and make things fit properly. I have gone through 2 gallons of epoxy resin, and around 20 yards of cloth. There were two things that were the hardest to do. Hang the doors so the body lines matched up, and install the headliner. I cut the head liner in half, welded in more support backing, and screwed in into place. I think each door took me in excess of a week each. The windows in the doors were done like a regular car door. Glass run channel, belt line rubber and fuzzy strip. If you install the windows like they suggest, all you will hear while driving is wind howl, as nothing is sealed.

I would not use another one of these. But I have one, I am going to finish it, and I will never sell it off. The cost is pretty steep, but then what isn't these days. I got pretty lucky, and the body was pretty straight. They did lie to me about the rear end and tire sizes. Should have narrowed the rear end by 4 inches or so. I ended up getting custom made wheels, with a great deal of back space, So they fit the wheel wells properly.

I had to re-weld a lot of the frame. the pockets for the upper control arms on the rear end, were in the wrong place. the frame is built so as to make it hard to get the exhaust out. Has to hang under the frame.

When it is all said and done, this is a pretty hard car to build. I have looked at a lot of them. And the skill level of the builder was always apparent. some looked really nice, some did not. But they were all proud to have completed them. That is the main thing.
Wayne
First welcome to the site and this thread. You only used 2 gallons of resin, you are lucky I had to use close to 15,
Got any pics of yours. we are here to help people that are building one and might need it, I'm sure you can help. It is not a thread to knock the car or put it down, there is another thread for that, and everything has just about been covered on that thread, as far as putting it down.
like I said this is to help people because it is not that easy.
These cars IMO can look good if you but the time in them. I'm just waiting to get into the body shop to get it painted on mine. I will post a couple pics for you.

Oh nothing has been adjusted on my doors or hood, in these pictures yet, I did have it all set up once, but took it apart.

Bob
 

Attachments

#118 ·
pipedoctor said:
Greetings,
Well, I am new to this forum, but I am in the process of finishing up my 34 three window. It has been a long journey. First thing I did, was throw away the manual!! If you use all of the junk yard parts they tell you to get, you will end up with a junk yard car.

These kits are not for the un-itiated. They are hard to assemble, and make things fit properly. I have gone through 2 gallons of epoxy resin, and around 20 yards of cloth. There were two things that were the hardest to do. Hang the doors so the body lines matched up, and install the headliner. I cut the head liner in half, welded in more support backing, and screwed in into place. I think each door took me in excess of a week each. The windows in the doors were done like a regular car door. Glass run channel, belt line rubber and fuzzy strip. If you install the windows like they suggest, all you will hear while driving is wind howl, as nothing is sealed.

I would not use another one of these. But I have one, I am going to finish it, and I will never sell it off. The cost is pretty steep, but then what isn't these days. I got pretty lucky, and the body was pretty straight. They did lie to me about the rear end and tire sizes. Should have narrowed the rear end by 4 inches or so. I ended up getting custom made wheels, with a great deal of back space, So they fit the wheel wells properly.

I had to re-weld a lot of the frame. the pockets for the upper control arms on the rear end, were in the wrong place. the frame is built so as to make it hard to get the exhaust out. Has to hang under the frame.

When it is all said and done, this is a pretty hard car to build. I have looked at a lot of them. And the skill level of the builder was always apparent. some looked really nice, some did not. But they were all proud to have completed them. That is the main thing.
Wayne
Good post Wayne. I am with you on just about everything you had to say but I went through my manual when building mine and I recommend others do the same. I don't recall all the junk you speak about although the manual was hard to follow along with at times. I found myself reading things over and over again to try to understand exactly what they meant in the manual on certain things they spoke about. You are right about using plenty of Resin and Fiberglass Cloth and you are right that the doors are the hardest thing to do. The headliner wasn't as bad to me to do I feel as it was to hang the back window. Doing it by the manual was useless I found. I ended up doing it differently then what the manual said to do. Wayne you are very right about how the exhaust system has to exit. I have mine going out the back and there isn't much room over the rear end to do it that way. I guess this is why CMC/SB show exhaust coming out from behind the doors before the rear tires in the manual. All in all this car was not a easy build as I have said numerious times on this forum. Again I will say the average Joe can not build this car on his own. Nonetheless I am happy with my Coupe the way mine came out. I have no plans on selling it although I have had many offers over the years. I put too much time and energy in this car to sell it off and I do enjoy driving mine although I have other collector cars to also drive. Have to say its a whole new experience driving one of these older type of Hot Rods. Many will know what I mean when they get theirs on the road.
 
#119 ·
Street Beast builds

Hi,

I really like your grill shell. You must have built it yourself?

Your body appears to be an older model? I can see some differences. Are you going to use the side cowls? A friend of mine is a fiberglass expert. He helped me out with a few things. Just small bits of advise, but it sure helped me, because I really hate working with fiberglass.

Tried to keep things as clean as I could, but it seemed that I was always cutting or grinding something.

I had always heard of guys talking about a "flat" dash. Never really knew what they were talking about, until I started to do the dash on this thing. It is not even close to being flat!! Should have cut it apart, and made it flat!! Not so much of a big deal if you are mounting individual gauges. But try it with a big flat insert.

when I figure out how, I will start an album. I tried to take pictures as I went along.
Thanks,
Wayne
 

Attachments

#120 ·
Street Beast builds

Hi ffas23,

When I did the rear window, I was really unsure about how to get it mounted, keep it flat, and then line up the headliner exactly in the opening. so, I made a form to build the flat surface around the opening, then cut the hole for the window in the body. I then fit the back half of the headliner, and marked the opening. This helped me get it set to right height, and keep it centered. then I used an oak board with sand paper, and made the flange around the window dead flat. Then sanded the headline to match that surface. Seemed to take forever.

I had a list from SB, itemizing all of the stuff needed from the junk yard. From suspension, brakes, rack, steering column, seats, rear end, emergency brake, wipers. the more I looked, the more I realized I did not want this stuff. so, I used after market stuff.

I was really steered in the wrong direction on the folks I got my engine from. They recommended T&L Engines. Well, I ordered the engine from them. Big mistake. I did eventually get my engine from them. Had some problems with the rocker arms they used. Did not line up with the valves. Dart said not to run them as they were. T&L said to pull the engine, and send it back to them. They would not replace them. So I did, and they look good now. But T&L is out of business now, had to sell off all of their equipment, and his house to pay back all the folks he screwed over. Now he has some pretty severe limitations on how he can do business. I haven't ran the engine yet, might be little bit scared to!!LOL

This is the first kit car I have done. Probably the last one. Just thought it would be fun to do while retired. Kind of have the itch to build a drag car!! Haven't had enough pain yet!!!


Wayne
 
#121 ·
Street beast builds

pipedoctor said:
Hi,

I really like your grill shell. You must have built it yourself?

Your body appears to be an older model? I can see some differences. Are you going to use the side cowls? A friend of mine is a fiberglass expert. He helped me out with a few things. Just small bits of advise, but it sure helped me, because I really hate working with fiberglass.

Tried to keep things as clean as I could, but it seemed that I was always cutting or grinding something.

I had always heard of guys talking about a "flat" dash. Never really knew what they were talking about, until I started to do the dash on this thing. It is not even close to being flat!! Should have cut it apart, and made it flat!! Not so much of a big deal if you are mounting individual gauges. But try it with a big flat insert.

when I figure out how, I will start an album. I tried to take pictures as I went along.
Thanks,
Wayne
Wayne, Very nice looking car. I have all the bling on my engine also, 5.0 HO. Mustang engine EFI, everything shiney, I will be using my side panels, I also have different inner fenders that look better. Mine is a diolder body, I don't have as big of tunnel or bell housing cover so I cut mine out and made one from SS that I had laying around, I have a AOD tranny which would not fit without cutting hump out. Then I'm running a jag rearend, all chrome, upper and lower control arms chrome also.
The grille is made by Valley, I also widen my front fenders 2" and some of the running boards, I mounted my body a little different as I lowered the whole body down in the front, plus I have 2" dropped spindles, Mustang road racing springs which lower it another 2", but have the same compression rate as a stock spring.

My inner headliner went right in but I fiber glassed mine in place. I put insulation in between, then I also built an overhead consul for my box for the Dakota Digital Box for my gauges, And I will put the control head for my sound system up there.

My body is made so I can take it off the frame if needed, Right now I am making some panels for the trunk and wiring it. The tail lights are flush with the back fenders and will be painted over so you will only see them when you hit the brakes or when the lights are on, third brake light the same.

Bob
 
#122 ·
Street Beast builds

Hi Bob,
Our cars sound very similar in build. They must have really changed some designs, as I did not have any problems with the floor board/tranny tunnel. I used Carera coil overs in front, so I adjusted the front end so it was down pretty far. for the rear end, it is fox body 8.8", 3:90 gears, 31 spline Moser axles. I found some solid upper control rod joints. they replaced the urethane ones. It is a captive heim joint, and allowed the car to squat down in the rear quite a bit. I was worried about getting the front too low, and turning into a plow. were the early bodies narrower than the later ones? I also put in an overhead console. But I mounted it towards the rear of the head liner, with the radio facing forward. I insulated with Fat Mat. You did a lot more work than I did, you must like fiberglass work? LOL

What did you do with your windows?

I kind of screwed up with the front fenders. the two pieces that go from the fender flange to the frame, won't work now. I hid a bunch of plumbing behind their mounting location. so, I get to make up some custom closures for it. Without it, dirt would ruin the engine compartment. Seems like everything I change, cost me a couple of months work. Put way too much stuff inside the doors. I am going to build some polished stainless frames for the hinge holes on the door jambs. They look like crap now.

I have an outfit lined up to do the interior. It's getting to the point where a bunch of money has to happen!! And then, the end!
 
#123 ·
street beast builds

pipedoctor said:
Hi Bob,
Our cars sound very similar in build. They must have really changed some designs, as I did not have any problems with the floor board/tranny tunnel. I used Carera coil overs in front, so I adjusted the front end so it was down pretty far. for the rear end, it is fox body 8.8", 3:90 gears, 31 spline Moser axles. I found some solid upper control rod joints. they replaced the urethane ones. It is a captive heim joint, and allowed the car to squat down in the rear quite a bit. I was worried about getting the front too low, and turning into a plow. were the early bodies narrower than the later ones? I also put in an overhead console. But I mounted it towards the rear of the head liner, with the radio facing forward. I insulated with Fat Mat. You did a lot more work than I did, you must like fiberglass work? LOL

What did you do with your windows?

I kind of screwed up with the front fenders. the two pieces that go from the fender flange to the frame, won't work now. I hid a bunch of plumbing behind their mounting location. so, I get to make up some custom closures for it. Without it, dirt would ruin the engine compartment. Seems like everything I change, cost me a couple of months work. Put way too much stuff inside the doors. I am going to build some polished stainless frames for the hinge holes on the door jambs. They look like crap now.

I have an outfit lined up to do the interior. It's getting to the point where a bunch of money has to happen!! And then, the end!
I don't know if the early ones are not as wide or not, I know the crossmember was too wide, that you couldn't get the fenders over the tire, that's why I made mine wider. I made them wider then notice the two fenders were not the same, nothing I didm it was the mold. I cut both front fenders off and but two that had already been widened, just cut them off were the fender and the running board were the same. That wasn't all of it, the back fender on the drivers side, flared out 1", so I had to make cuts in both the fender and running board to push them back and not have pressure.
In front of the passenger door it sunk in 3/4" so I had to build that up with glass.

As you said the way the window openings were the wind noise would be loud. What I did I took some steel channel that woud hold the window channel. I started at the bottom brought it up bent it around at the corners across the top around the corner and down, I made little pie cuts to go around the corners. Then I weld little strips of metal onto the channel where it went around the window opening, I put them on both sides, inside and out. Then I took and ground down into the glass the thickness of the strips of steel.
Now you must know, and if you don't you will have trouble down the line if you did it. But you can't but metal between fiberglass< the metal will work it's way loose. I use some stuff they use on vettes, It's a two part epoxy, it will spark when you grind it. Well that's what I put my channels for my windows in with, then cat whiskers along the bottom of the window. I also put a metal gas door in with the same stuff. You can see in picture.

I put the Jag in mine so I cut all they had in there out. I also had to add a crossmember to hang the Jag. I also re-welded the frame added some support and gussets, rounded all the welds and bondoed them to finish.

Bob
 

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#124 ·
I actually went to the junk yard and purchased a rear end and M/C w/booster that came right out of a 1989 Mustang LX. This was back in 1992 and the '89 Mustang LX was only 3 years old wrecked with 30k miles on the clock. Still like new to me. Other parts I purchased was a Tilt steering column from a 80's Camaro that I used in my build. I also purchased a front clip from a 70's Mustang II and rebuilt the upper and lower A-Frames after sandblasting them and repainting them using new bushings and new ball joints. I didn't even think of buying the brand new tubular A-Frame arms back then to build my car. Forgot to mention I also bought a set of seats out of a "89 Mustang LX. Not the same LX as mentioned above. The only other used pieces that I purchased was 2 used driveshafts from a Mustang and Camaro. I then brought it to a place who built a brand new drive shaft for me using the GM front section of the used drive shaft to fit my GM Trans and the Ford rear section of the used drive shaft to fit the Ford Mustang LX rear end. I also ended up using a rebuilt beefed up Chevy 350 Turbo Transmission that I bartered for to a Transmission Repair Shop that I sell to. I also picked up a gas pedal from a Mustang II that was like brand new and a parking brake for the floor also like new from a Mustang II. Got them for nothing. That was basically it everything else was purchased brand new from that point on. I purchased one of the ZZ4 Series Chevy Motors brand new sitting in a crate that someone was going to use in another car a '68 Nova who ran out of money at the time. Picked it up for $2100 as I said still in the crate. That I felt was a deal. We all know what they are going for today.

Don't know if you meant me or someone else when speaking about the grill shell. As far as my grill is concerned it is actually the Factory CMC Grill Shell but not the Factory CMC Grill. That was another part that was not shipped out to me from CMC when they shorted me many parts. Didn't matter to me being I never liked the CMC Grill anyway. I had the grill I am using specially made to the look I wanted for my car to fit my CMC grill shell.
 
#125 ·
Street Beast builds

Hi,
ffas22, I was referring to the grill shell you have, real nice looking. It would seem that when you guys got your kits, used parts were easy to come by. Not so anymore. I got tired of looking for stuff, and got mostly new stuff. the rear end is the only thing I got used. Just seemed better to spend my time putting it together than looking for parts.

35terraplane, you are going to have a real nice ride!! It sure sounds like your car was a mess when you got it. I was pretty lucky I guess, mine is straight and uniform. the thing you had to deal with , would kill the project for most people.

The wife and I went to the Portland Roadster Show this afternoon. superior glass works had a car there, and it looked great. It was kind of a mix between a vette, Cadillac, and station wagon. their glass work is real nice. Things fit so good, there was no work left to do. Seems like the 33 and 34 are making a comeback on the hot rod circuit. There were a lot of 41 Willey's cars and trucks there. Must be an unwritten law, they all have to run a hemi!! LOL

I have started a project journal. It isn't much. A few pics here and there.
Wayne
 
#126 ·
Street Beast builds

pipedoctor said:
Hi,
ffas22, I was referring to the grill shell you have, real nice looking. It would seem that when you guys got your kits, used parts were easy to come by. Not so anymore. I got tired of looking for stuff, and got mostly new stuff. the rear end is the only thing I got used. Just seemed better to spend my time putting it together than looking for parts.

35terraplane, you are going to have a real nice ride!! It sure sounds like your car was a mess when you got it. I was pretty lucky I guess, mine is straight and uniform. the thing you had to deal with , would kill the project for most people.

The wife and I went to the Portland Roadster Show this afternoon. superior glass works had a car there, and it looked great. It was kind of a mix between a vette, Cadillac, and station wagon. their glass work is real nice. Things fit so good, there was no work left to do. Seems like the 33 and 34 are making a comeback on the hot rod circuit. There were a lot of 41 Willey's cars and trucks there. Must be an unwritten law, they all have to run a hemi!! LOL

I have started a project journal. It isn't much. A few pics here and there.
Wayne
Wayne, I didn't use many parts from the yard, Rearend of course, but I had that chromed, I have a 87 turbo coupe T-bird column in it but I might change it to a IDiDiT one, That was about it.

Oh I think it was my grille you were looking at. I didn't like the SB at all, IMO one of the worse looking insert on the planet, missing one bar on each side.
I think the valley grille looks a lot better. :D :thumbup:

Bob
 
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