|04-07-2011 07:25 AM|
Hi,I was wondering if, one day, the euro could replace the dollar as a main currency. What do you think about this issue?
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|03-24-2011 05:33 PM|
im using std. 45°
i plumbed the whole car on total build.
decided to change the master for the cpp mcpv master and re-do front
just a dang fluk , i guess u would call it .
there has to be some simple thing im taking for granite.
all good advice and suggestions here, for sure.
what is the overlocked thing im missing? i'll get it this week end.
thanks , roger
|03-24-2011 01:25 PM|
If you have the original take a peek at it. Make sure the flare on the original is the same as what you are making. You didn't say what kind of vehicle but some use that bubble flare. There are also 2 different flaring angles, make sure you are using the proper tool. The flare on the line and the block need to match.
Standard is 45* AN is 37*
|03-24-2011 12:16 PM|
|heyjude076||Check that T. Some Ts have flared ends and a 1/8" NPT in the middle for a brake switch. If that is the case it will never seal.|
|03-24-2011 08:40 AM|
|willowbilly3||I'd bet you have a bad T. With all of that stuff coming from China now, quality control isn't what it used to be. The plant I work at gets bolts from Fastenall. At least half of the bigger bolts are so rough the nut won't spin on with your fingers.|
|03-24-2011 07:29 AM|
scholman, i checked this morning , the leak is from around the tube not the fitting threads. whats that tell me?
|03-24-2011 06:24 AM|
goin to the auto store today and get a new line with fittings on the line and a new tee, and start over AGAIN .
this makes the 3rd time.
i will follow all tips from you guys, thanks.
problem is the brake fluid goes all over the place, makes a mess.
dont get it on any painted areas. i try to be neat.
|03-23-2011 11:44 PM|
I suggest buying brake line with the ends already flared.
Use the factory flared end where you have been having a leak.
Flare the other end to length
Most likely the leak will disappear ... and if not ... the fitting is BAD ...
|03-23-2011 09:21 PM|
The cut on the tubing must be square, if it is off just a little the flare will be distorted and it will leak no matter how tight you get it. After you cut the tube chuck it up in your flare tool base where it just sticks up a little and see if it's square, if it's not dress it with a file until it is square.
|03-23-2011 08:46 PM|
i believe it comming from around the threads.
i will try that next time around.
that may just do it.at least i hope.
thanks again, roger
|03-23-2011 08:34 PM|
Only other thing to check is the Tee itself. Maybe the seat is dinged or damaged.
Is the leak coming from the thread area or from the tubing side of the nut?
You could try not flaring the second flare all the way down. So when you tighten the fitting, the flare will seat against the bottom of the "T" fitting and then be compressed to fit the seat inside the "T".
|03-23-2011 05:10 PM|
|THERACER||still got threads showing , thanks.|
|03-23-2011 05:03 PM|
make sure there is a few threads sticking out past the tee.
some flair nuts are longer than others and a short nut will bottom out on the nut flats
|03-23-2011 04:59 PM|
i have done all that several times, still have leaky.
didnt appear to have cracked the flare.
do you have any tips on any other things to look for that i may be missing here?
its the short line going from the tee to the left front . i guess i will make another one. all the other seal up ok , go figure.
|03-23-2011 04:39 PM|
Double flares are tough to do. Cut the tubing with a very sharp tubing cutter. Then measure the amount of tube sticking out of the holder with the adaptor. Then install the adaptor into the tubing and make the first "inward" flare. Remove the adaptor and finish the second flare. When you finish look at the end to see if the tubing cracked. You might think of replacing the section of tubing.
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