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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-28-2011 05:00 AM
willowbilly3 I have seen hundreds of those conversions over the years and without exception, they are junk. It is WAY easier to make a stock choke work than it is to keep one of those conversion kits working. Kinda preaching here but why would you not just fix the automatic choke that was on it?
One thing you might try (forgive me if this has already been mentioned) is to take the fast idle cam and grind the steps off it so it is a smooth ramp. With the steps on there you only have to pull the choke once without depressing the gas pedal and the cable will slip and the whole adjustment is gone.
03-27-2011 11:50 PM
worminator Thank you all so much for your help. I think i'm really starting to get the hang of starting this old boat. Just to recap; I should press the petal down at the same time I pull the choke, turn the ignition, and when I hear the engine fire, push the choke in little by little until it starts?
03-27-2011 12:22 AM
snkbyt
Quote:
Originally Posted by worminator
What is a tell-tale sign that my engine is flooded? Usually I assume that if i'm hearing popping sounds in the engine while its turning over it is flooded. If I floor the accelerator during this time, the popping will increase in frequency and volume, until the engine will finally start.

For everybody else, It's too late. When I installed the manual choke, I threw out the electric choke. And the car is so close to dying I really don't feel like salvaging another one.

The car should fire before it floods. If it fires a few times then quits fireing it could be flooded. Make sure you push the pedal down a little before pulling the choke cable or else it will hang on the old fast idle cam and bend the linkage holding the cable or the cable will slip out. Pull the cable and make sure its full closed. when it fires then start pushing it in til it starts to run smooth. Leave it out a little til warmed up. TOOO, bad you didn't get on here before you tossed the auto choke... they work great if you know how they work.
03-26-2011 10:53 PM
sqzbox
Quote:
Originally Posted by worminator
What is a tell-tale sign that my engine is flooded? Usually I assume that if i'm hearing popping sounds in the engine while its turning over it is flooded. If I floor the accelerator during this time, the popping will increase in frequency and volume, until the engine will finally start..
You came pretty close to answering your own question there.

Too much choke (choke plate fully closed) and it will fire one time and die.
At that point, it's flooded. After that, the plugs are wet with fuel and further attempts to start it without opening the choke all the way will be almost futile. With the increase in fuel with the choke partially closed, the engine needs more air to mix with the fuel. That's where the fast idle comes to play, it keeps the throttle blades partially open to allow more air to mix with the fuel.
Summertime is coming, so you will need to use the choke less and less as it warms up for the next 7-8 mo. It just takes practice on how to use it. I even have to get used to using it every winter when it turns colder because I forget how the engine responds to the choke. Air temp and the temp of the engine has a lot to do with it also. Everything is different at 2* than it is at 32* and less choke and fast idle is needed. During the summer when the air is 60 or 70* degree's at night, I don't even need to use it.

Another trick you can use is remove the air cleaner and pull your choke button all the way out. Loosen the set screw on the choke arm and move it to where you can just get a pencil between the choke plate and the air horn and tighten the set screw back down on the cable wire. This way, you can pull the choke button all the way out when you start the engine without closing the choke all the way causing it to flood the engine. The choke button won't go all the way back in but it will keep you from over doing it and when you do push the button in as far as it will go it will still open the choke plate all the way after warm up.
03-26-2011 09:40 PM
worminator
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard stewart 3rd
Try starting it this way.
Pull the choke out, give it one shot of the accelerator & engage the starter, at the same time start pushing the choke back in some, & resist the urge to pump the throttle, as I think you've been flooding it. By doing it this way you've richened the mixture & then your adding enough air to ignite it with.
Rich
What is a tell-tale sign that my engine is flooded? Usually I assume that if i'm hearing popping sounds in the engine while its turning over it is flooded. If I floor the accelerator during this time, the popping will increase in frequency and volume, until the engine will finally start.

For everybody else, It's too late. When I installed the manual choke, I threw out the electric choke. And the car is so close to dying I really don't feel like salvaging another one.
03-26-2011 05:18 PM
001mustang i love manual choke.
once started, i position choke control to maintain fast idle till warm.
i like to use fast idle function during stop and go; especially going up hill.
can release clutch w/o pressing accelerator.
i set fast idle screw to max practical position.
03-26-2011 04:35 PM
sqzbox
Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
Shame, with a little adjustment of the fast idle screw, you could have remedied that problem.
X3.......!

Here's what I do on my 350.
Pull choke cable out all the way and bump it back in about 1/4 to 1/2 in.
Give it a pump shot and crank it up. On an auto choke, the initial setting is the choke plate on the carb should be open slightly (about 1/4 in) and that is the same with an manual. Even a manual choke has a fast idle screw adj. also
so you need to set that (when engine is cold) the same as the automatic.
One thing that makes it easier is to always mount the choke cable to the carb. with the least amount of kinks and bends so it will operate smoothly with little Resistance. Having a sticky or hard to push choke knob is a pain so lubricating the linkage and cable every so often will keep it operating smoothly. If you can learn to operate the manual choke and set the fast idle speed, you can do the same with your automatic electric choke.
The only reason I have a manual choke is I bought the carb used (600 cfm Holley) and that's what it came with and didn't want to spend the money to get an auto elec. choke control. If I were you, I would put the auto back on.
Another advantage to an auto choke is the women in your life may have to drive it and then what? My wife can start my truck ok but the next time I get in it she always forgets to push it all the way in after it warms up sucking gas so I keep her in the GP and out of my truck!
03-26-2011 11:15 AM
richard stewart 3rd X2
Rich___
03-26-2011 11:04 AM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by worminator
Hey, I own an '82 Buick LeSabre. I was tired of having it idle so high, so I replaced the electric choke with a manual one. When I had the electric choke, I would only have to pump the gas once for the car to start. Is it normal for me to have to pump it upwards of 30 times with the manual choke engaged?
This was an adjustment problem, the electric choke has a fast idle cam as part of its assembly. It has an adjustable screw, when the weather is cold and choke closes the cam which is on the same shaft as what closes the choke also open the throttle plates to speed up the idle speed. The speed is controlled with a screw adjustment between the throttle shaft and the choke's fast idle cam.

I'd recommend putting the electric choke back and trashing the manual. Most people eventually forget the choke is on and leave it there running a lot of fuel through the engine which washes the upper cylinder lube away resulting in friction damage to the rings and upper cylinder wall, bring the next major rebuild closer.

Bogie
03-26-2011 10:47 AM
richard stewart 3rd Try starting it this way.
Pull the choke out, give it one shot of the accelerator & engage the starter, at the same time start pushing the choke back in some, & resist the urge to pump the throttle, as I think you've been flooding it. By doing it this way you've richened the mixture & then your adding enough air to ignite it with.
Rich
03-26-2011 02:25 AM
sqzbox
Quote:
Originally Posted by worminator
Hey, I own an '82 Buick LeSabre. I was tired of having it idle so high, so I replaced the electric choke with a manual one. When I had the electric choke, I would only have to pump the gas once for the car to start. Is it normal for me to have to pump it upwards of 30 times with the manual choke engaged?
Shame, with a little adjustment of the fast idle screw, you could have remedied that problem.
03-26-2011 02:10 AM
327NUT Like I said you may have to experiment with the choke until you find the sweet spot for it to start. Let the engine idle for a few minutes until it warms up and then push the choke cable in. IF...you installed it correctly it should work.
03-26-2011 12:56 AM
worminator Hm. I was always taught to pull the choke out all the way. The weather here has been sitting at around 0 Celsius, so you're saying i'll only need to pull the choke about half way?
03-26-2011 12:48 AM
327NUT Try pulling the choke knob "cable" out, that will shut the "flap" and choke the engine. You really don't want to close the "flap" all the way because the engine won't get enough air and it will flood the engine. You may have to experiment a little to get the right ccombination. The colder the weather the more choke...the warmer the less........
03-25-2011 10:49 PM
worminator The carb works perfectly. There is a clean squirt of fuel. Is it possible that I installed the choke incorrectly? With the choke pushed in, that flap underneath the air cleaner is wide open.
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