|03-30-2011 08:15 PM|
|crownver||Ah, too late. already welded in 1/8". I will gusset it though. Thanks for the help!|
|03-30-2011 07:12 PM|
|aosborn||Go with 3/16" thick plate...|
|03-29-2011 11:35 PM|
|ericnova72||I would think so, with the gussets close enough to limit having too much open area at the shock mounting bushing area. It's not like it has a coil over spring against it. 3/16" would definately do it if you are worried about it.|
|03-29-2011 11:10 PM|
|crownver||What plate thickness would you use for the upper mount? Would 1/8" with gussets be heavy enough?|
|03-29-2011 11:09 PM|
|crownver||Thanks Eric and Aosborn. So I'll definitely go with the stem mount upper I think. Monroe at least has a better size selection with that. I'll check out the Rancho shocks site. Not married to Monroe, just couldn't find the info elsewhere.|
|03-29-2011 10:37 PM|
Rancho Shocks has specs for every shock they carry, you can look them up by application or by travel, and they list what ends are on them and give a chart for the ends also.
Just go to their site and download the catalog, it is in PDF form. Once you find a shock that fits your needs for travel and mounting style you can look up what application it fits and then go to Monroe if that is your choice.
|03-29-2011 10:35 PM|
The basic rule of thumb for shock travel is 2/3 for bump, 1/3 for droop.
I don't see a problem with a plate between the upper trailing arm mount and the upper spring pocket. It will add some strength to the trailing arm mount as well. If the span is too wide, just throw in an additional gusset.
As to shock mounting, either will work fine, I just look for the proper length for what I need. Sometimes when you find a shock that is the right length and correct lower mount bushing size, you may just have to go with whichever top mount it has. You could always put tabs off the bottom of that upper plate to install an eye type mount.
|03-29-2011 10:30 PM|
Thanks Eric, that was what I was hoping for.
Not sure of what length shock to get though, for compression and extension. I've got about 10" from the frame to the axle housing, a little less with the box on. Up to the spring pocket would be about 18 1/2". So would about 3 1/2" up and 4 1/2" down travel be about right? This truck may get some weight on it.
Also want to get the right bottom mount. The stock Monroe shock for the donor car (I'm not tied to Monroe, they just have a good chart) shows a L1/CP3 lower mount style, which translates to a 5/8" loop mount/1/2" cantilever pin mount. Not sure what this means. Seems like 2 different things. Unless they give you a new mount that's 1/2" with a sleeve? Any thoughts on that? Do you know of any other brands that I can check the individual extended length and travel
Yeah, I know what you mean about bracing the link mount. I'll do that after I get the shock mount done. I also need to brace the link mounts on the differential better. I'll be doing all that once I get the frame stripped down and can flip it to do the bottom welds.
|03-29-2011 09:26 PM|
I don't see any problem with a good triangulated mount off the frame/corner of your spring pocket and using a shock with a bayonet stud type end on the upper end. Some of the ProStreet coil over shock kits come with a shock that is bayonet style on the upper end made to mount through a piece of flat plate.
On your second picture, I would bridge the two sides of your upper link mount at the frame with a small(say 1-3/4" x 3", whatever fits frame to eye and covers the span), to keep it from trying to fold over one way or the other.
|03-29-2011 08:38 PM|
back at the suspension again
Hi guys, I started this thread early last year. Lot of things going on since then, one of which is my semi-retirement, so now I have more time to work on the truck. I've been working mostly on the pick up bed, and have that pretty much ready for bodywork/filler.
Now I'm back at the suspension so I can put the bed back on and keep it there until the cab is done. (room is an issue) I'm still having trouble with the top shock mount. Done a lot of searching and seem to come up with varying opinions on how much up and down travel the shock should have, from 50/50 to 1/3 up and 2/3 down. Been looking at the Monroe shock dimension chart for sizes that might work. That said, I'm trying to decide if I should put a plate across from the upper bar mount to the coil mount, and use the stem style upper shock, or put another bar across the frame and weld in posts to mount eye style shocks.
All opinions are appreciated! Thanks.....John
|01-18-2010 04:43 PM|
|crownver||Thanks for the input Trees. The bottom mounts are in already as I used the 4 bar brackets that came with a donor car and they included the shock mounts.|
|01-18-2010 03:13 PM|
Crown, A couple of thoughts on shock location/mounting. Since you have a triangulated rear, you have some options that can make your truck handle well. First, get the shocks as far out board as possible. If there is room, consider mounting them on the outside of the frame. Second, if at all possible, mount them vertical ie perpendicular to the axle and no tilt to inside or outside. Your triangulated 4 bar motion for all practical purposes allows the axle to move straight up and down (you are talking 4 inches or less extreme travel). I use the Air Ride Technologies' 4 bar set up and the behind the axle adjustable bracket they offer lets you mount the shock directly to the bottom of the frame
|01-18-2010 12:09 PM|
|crownver||Great, that'll add a little less weight too. Thanks!|
|01-17-2010 08:40 PM|
That 2x4 will be strong enough for sure, but a length of 1 1/2" x .120 wall or thicker round tubing would work just fine and not take up so much room.
|01-17-2010 07:45 PM|
|crownver||Thanks Andy, I'll go that route then. I haven't actually got a X member in the correct location but I'll put in a piece of 2X4X1/8 I have. That should be strong enough.|
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