Hot Rod Forum banner

PRO PAINTERS-Question on Wax

3K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  jcclark 
#1 ·
With todays clears do we need to wax our cars? A few painters I have talked to say no. Wax will make it impossable to repair/paint if needed.
What about the new synthetic "waxes"
 
#2 ·
Wax will not protect it any more, but will help cover and buff marks or fine scratches for a better look.

The paint manufacturers say to wait 30 days before waxing so the solvents can finish escaping.

No problem painting over it. Just clean and sand like you should be doing every time anyway.

Armorall is a big NO NO!!! It will contaminate the surface like you can't even believe! ...and don't ever... under any circumstances... use it in your shop! If you do, you will find out why I am warning you so strongly! }:-(
 
#3 ·
TucsonJay said:
Wax will not protect it any more, but will help cover and buff marks or fine scratches for a better look.

The paint manufacturers say to wait 30 days before waxing so the solvents can finish escaping.

No problem painting over it. Just clean and sand like you should be doing every time anyway.

Armorall is a big NO NO!!! It will contaminate the surface like you can't even believe! ...and don't ever... under any circumstances... use it in your shop! If you do, you will find out why I am warning you so strongly! }:-(
HI TJ. are there other silicone products to stay away from? What can we use on the interior that won't hurt the paint?
 
#4 ·
Sorry, I haven't compared those kinds of products. I just know that I had some mintruck clientel in the '80s that used it on their interiors and tires, and I have a really hard time painting over the outer body.

WD40 is an even worse contaminant. One of my guys was using it on some rusty bolts while I was painting a '29 Ford delivery. It got through the booth filters, and I would estimate the "fisheyes" in the hundreds! You can't sand those out! You have to fill 'em! It went on to be the NSRA Western Division Street Rod of the Year.... but I had to work my butt off! :-(
 
#5 ·
quality polish will add to the uv protection and protect the surface from contaminates. bugs and dirt come off easier too. i polish with mothers canuba wax as soon as i am through buffing. ask those painters what wax and grease remover is for .
i'm not a fan of synthetics waxes .
 
#11 ·
I don't know what's in wd40, but I saw first hand how it killed a paint job in progress 15-20 years ago! A porter was spraying it near the air compressor one day when the painter came over to verify why his job went south. The paint booth was a hundred or so feet away from the compressor, the wd was sprayed within 10 ft of the compressor, the paint went to hell with craters. Whoops!
 
#14 ·
I kinda agree with "Shine'". I have done a few BC/CC paint jobs. Some of them have come home from our local car shows with awards :) . We live in a high temp/low humidity world out here in the desert. Let the solvents dry out and wax as much as you can. It works. It's also a good way to take care of single stage. I have one that I did about six years ago. It sits outside in the sun everyday and still looks good because the guy that owns it applies wax on a regular schedule. By the way, I have painted two airplanes. It comes out the same way. It's all good if you take care of the finish after you get to the finish. "Juss sayin"

Chris
 
#15 ·
Nothing wrong with waxing your paint.
(properly cured paint that is)
It sure seems to make my car easier to keep clean.
and it does seem to offer a little protection.
I have had paint jobs with no wax for over 3 yrs and still look great,
but waxing it sure wouldn't hurt anything.
And useing a good wax with polish in it will suprise you the
ground in dirt it will remove if it's been a while,
just like a clay bar will do too. :D
 
#16 ·
What is it exactly that is supposed to happen if you wax to soon? Craig Fraser (world reknown custom painter/airbrush artist) and Jon Kosmoski (House of Kolor) both have said that there is no high quality wax that keeps paint from cureing. They both have said they wax every job after it is sanded and polished. And there jobs don't sit for 6 months before they are delivered. Craig said he waxes everything and some of his jobs are delivered within DAYS of being cleared. This isn't something that was mandatory with the old technology and just hasn't been updated with newer technology is it? Just asking.
 
#17 ·
65ELCMO said:
HI TJ. are there other silicone products to stay away from? What can we use on the interior that won't hurt the paint?
Leather cleans up with a damp cloth, but don't soak it with water.

Ultraleather (100% polyurethane) and vinyl clean up with a mild solution of dish soap and warm water. For really dirty areas, use Fantastik or Formula 409.
 
#18 ·
Underground said:
What is it exactly that is supposed to happen if you wax to soon? .
The theory is that some waxes trap the solvents from escaping and
can lead to bubbles and other failures.
I have heard where this has happened, but realistically,
many painters wax their new paint and never had a problem.
It may be the type of wax they use, pure carnuba ithink is suppose
to let the paint still breathe.
But, if it's buffed and polished properly, a wax won't make it look
any better. Most use it to make up for an incomplete buff job.
there's no reason to wax new paint if done right, so why
not wait just to be safe. :pimp:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top