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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Garage - Tools> Dewalt Dry cut metal chop saw review (hint: you'll kick yourself)
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-10-2011 08:31 AM
angle cut.

My old 220 v belt driver abrasive chop saw came with a 45* drop in vise, , the regular vise is fixed at 90* for other angles I usually get out the milwaukee portaband,
04-10-2011 06:55 AM
deadbodyman I was having trouble in the wood shop with the blades flexing. they make a stabilizer for that problem that cured it ,all they are ,are giant washers that sandwich the blade,might work for your metal saw as well....
As for that crappy POS fence ,I got tired of setting up and double checking everything every time I changed an angle so I put permanent marks in the base that I lined the fence up with ,to speed things up. the problem with the abrasive blade is as it wears down you have to move the fence so you need many lines for the same angle.That shouldnt be a problem with the cold saw..I used my cut off wheel to cut the lines showing the angles some white paint in the groove makes it even easier for us half blind guys that never seem to have their glasses handy.
04-09-2011 01:42 PM
lowROLLERchevy also turns out that doing miter corners makes the backstop for the clamp slide, which allso allows your material to slide carther and farther to the right.

If i was to try to build a retangle out of square tubing, i would have to spend FOREVER back measuring to the blade to get the overall length i wanted

I was thinking i would be able to modify this saw to make it work right, but now im thinking thats a waste of effort.
04-09-2011 10:02 AM
matt167 It is, and Milwaukee did the same thing with there 618-20 ( abrasive ) and 6190-20 ( dry cut ). but the base there mounted to is cast iron.. If I could have found a 6180-20 locally I would own 1, but I couldn't when I was looking, so I settled with the Ridgid 4141 which has a cast iron base
04-09-2011 05:43 AM
deadbodyman I could be wrong but that sure looks like the same exact base ,backstop as my dewalt abrasive saw.,looks like they just mounted a different motor and blade on it...I would have keept looking if I wanted one...
04-06-2011 01:14 PM
lowROLLERchevy brand new saw, brand new blade, no pressure used.

like i said, shouldnt have to pay $180 to fix a brand new saw thats never been used, no matter what the reason.
04-06-2011 07:00 AM
trees It has been my experience if you have a cutting tool walking and you are not applying excessive pressure, you have one side of the cutting edge dulled more than the other side. You might inspect each tooth to see if that is the case (if it has teeth) or if the cutting material is worn more on one side or the other. My replacement cutting tool bills would have been much less over the years had I been a faster learner in letting the cutting surface do the work and not adding more pressure to speed up the job and taking the time to carefully inspect the cutting surfaces when a tool was not cutting normally. I was a slow learner in properly sharpening tools as well, but it sure pays off now. I am struggling with teaching my son how to properly use and treat tools, but he is coming around because he has to buy the replacement tools that he breaks or destroys.

04-05-2011 04:29 PM
Originally Posted by lowROLLERchevy
I doubt your standards are to low, Its probably more a matter of intended use of the cut material.

what thickness material are you cutting with it? Im doing 16-18 gauge exhaust tubing. I tried it out on steel, but the plan is to use stainless for the build we are doing.

I've only cut up to about 1/2" material with it-mostly I cut between 18 gauge and 3/16"-you shouldn't have any problems with Stainless-

It's not the Tool for the everyday fabricator. I realize it does cost more than an Abrasive Wheel, but I really hate the sparks that an Abrasive Wheel makes, and I appreciate the finish I get.

Again, the new Milwaukee comes with a cast iron base, so I think if I were doing it again I'd look really hard at it-
04-05-2011 01:03 PM
lowROLLERchevy I doubt your standards are to low, Its probably more a matter of intended use of the cut material.

what thickness material are you cutting with it? Im doing 16-18 gauge exhaust tubing. I tried it out on steel, but the plan is to use stainless for the build we are doing.

Now on the flip side of things, ALSO in the garage is a cheap miter saw for wood, 8" if i remember correctly, and its got a abrasive blade on it. The cuts THAT saw makes in 3/8 plate are quite nice. Would think the cheap saw w/ the abrasive blade would do lesser quality work....
04-05-2011 10:25 AM
35WINDOW lowroller,

Sorry to hear you don't like it-I have one, and my expectations must be set awfully low-once, through my own negligence, I have had the material I was cutting get loose (it can throw metal well!) , but other than that, I have been really happy-

My cuts only requre grinding a small "tab" that is left (w/a 3" roloc-50 grit), and, as far as I can tell the cuts have been straight-is the base stamped? Yes, it is-I would have liked it to be cast, but it's not a cold saw with a cold saw price.

I have found a guy who can sharpen my old Blades for $35, and they have worked fine. I get about 4-500 cuts per sharpening. I use the clamp if I can, and make sure the Blade is straight to the cut, same as I do with my Table Saw. Airgas sells a new 14" Blade for $109-

Would I buy it again? Probably-it does have it's down sides, but I like the clean cuts and no sparks. To each his own-

I bought mine when it was the only game in town-now Milwaukee has one, and if I were buying today I would look closely at it, as I am a Milwaukee guy-
04-05-2011 07:55 AM
why the $ for one

I looked at them and asked why do they cost so much more that the abrasive saw to have a motor that just runs slower with the required torque. I looked at the extra saws I have and thought for a minute I could do an arbor, pullies belts and slow down one of the wood saws. I have a 14 In turret wood saw and a 14 in radial arm I haven't used in 10 years, They were handy to use when framing houses using a lot of 4 X beams. cut in one pull.
04-05-2011 07:46 AM
Irelands child A-h-h-h-h another of the Stanley Black and Decker owned fine companies gone to h e l l. This is a list from late last year:

Delta Machinery (sold to Chang Type Industrial Co., Ltd in Jan 2011 )
DeVilbiss Air Power
Weiser Lock
Price Pfister
Emhart Teknologies
Oldham Blades
Black and Decker Firestorm

Isn't this a fantastic line up of formerly great companies taken down to junk level, close to Harbor Freight Chinese quality?

Dave W
04-05-2011 05:13 AM
Originally Posted by lowROLLERchevy
Paying $100+ to fix a brand new $500 saw is beyond stupid.

Sound's like you already have it figured out !!!!
I guess I shouldn't have open my big mouth
04-05-2011 03:58 AM
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
Willowbilly3.. I think he's talking about a metal cutting chop saw with a metal blade...Not a abrasive chop saw... The metal cutting chop saw has lower RPM's then the abrasive chop saw...
Oops! my bad. I've never used one of those.
04-05-2011 12:10 AM
lowROLLERchevy This is the saw for anyone thats wondering

Take a look at that base. Glorified cake pan i tell you.

Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
Well no one is saying you don't know how to cut tubing... Just letting you know the ones I have seen in action, work better then any abrasive chop saw I have ever used... Did you try a new blade.. And if so what kind ???

Did the saw just start doing this, Are did it always do it ???
Replacement blades (if we do assume thats the problem) are $100, for the Northern Industrial brand, 180+ for the Dewalt brand and $145 for the Milwaukee brand. Paying $100+ to fix a brand new $500 saw is beyond stupid.

This saw is BRAND NEW. My buddy picked it up at the winter tool fair and just today it got tested for the first time. And no stores around here stock this thing either, so we cant even drop it back in the box and take it to Sears and say "i lost the receipt"
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