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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-15-2011 06:55 AM
GMR Ha - I'll check out your thread Ogre, thanks, as well as the Hot Rod article Malc, thankyou.
04-14-2011 12:28 PM
malc What Mark Hamilton at MadElectrical doesīnt know about vehicle systems isīnt worth knowing, the guy is a walking textbook.
Checkout PitStop in Aprilīs HotRod magazine.
04-14-2011 12:04 PM
ogre i think i am currently being funny

i kill myself
04-14-2011 12:02 PM
ogre i haven't been able to open up the madelectric site for a while
obviously you guys can. i tried with chrome and iexplorer

but i did read his site a couple of yrs ago and decided to convert my amp gauge into a volt gauge
i did a small write up on it in the 55-59 chevy truck thread post #2361 (last page as of today)
take a look at it it might be something you can work into the vette dash

but... i think your amp gauge is currently being bypassed by the red wire that is hooked from the horn relay to the solenoid
maybe the previous owner had problems with the amp meter

the only way to protect you amp meter in it's current place is with a fusible link at your battery.
04-13-2011 08:54 PM
GMR Good article malc, thanks.
04-12-2011 03:09 PM
vicrod The article supports my position that the meter shunt in GM alternator equipped cars is the main accessory wire which is part the main harness and does NOT pass into the passenger compartment and through the ammeter.
Any vehicle that has the shunt as part of the ammeter can be hazardous as mentioned in the article.

04-12-2011 02:50 PM
malc If it is an ammeter, read this.
04-12-2011 02:42 PM
vicrod I suggested 4 amp fuses only because the GM schematics show them.

04-12-2011 08:13 AM
GMR Hope this is a more readable.

I plan to install inline fuses on the battery gauge wires, as suggested, after things are worked out - thanks.

The red and blk wires at the sol share a spade connector. The two reds and the blk/wht share a connector at the horn relay. The horn relay has 2 terminals but they are on the same bus bar.
04-10-2011 06:40 PM
daveismissing If its a typical meter movement then the flow would be milliamps? I would postulate 4A may protect the attaching wires but protecting the movement may require something very small, say under 1A?
If its configured differently I'd enjoyed being enlightened.
(not intended as a bad electrical pun)
04-10-2011 02:25 PM
vicrod The battery meter is an ammeter. It will have a 0 amps centered position and + amps and - amps positions.
An indication in the + side of the ammeter shows if current is flowing from the alternator to the battery.
An indication in the - shows excess current flowing from the battery to the accessories or the alternator is not working.

The ammeter measures voltage drop across a shunt. In this case the shunt is the heavy red wire connecting the battery to the alternator and accessories.
The smaller black and blk/wt wires go to the ammeter. If they are not fused they should be.
Inline fuses (4 amp) should be installed in each of these wires at a point as close as possible where it connects to the heavy red wire.

04-09-2011 10:08 PM
daveismissing Where you have 3 wires going into a "box" if they are attaching to separate distinct terminals on the "box" maybe you can show that.
04-09-2011 09:01 PM
GMR Not sure what you mean. The 2 wires to the battery gauge are a BLK from starter solenoid and Blk/Wht from horn relay. I'll try a more clear diagram.
04-09-2011 07:55 PM
daveismissing Unless I'm missing something ( a bit fuzzy) the way you've drawn it the gauge is shorted by a red wire?. Don't see how that works.
04-06-2011 05:23 PM
GMR Thanks fellas.

Here's a diagram. Could you please give me your recommendations on where to put fusible links/fuses/circuit breakers.

Hope you can read it.

The Red-2, Blk/Wht, and Red-3 share a ring terminal at the horn relay.
The Red-3 and Blk share a ring terminal at the starter solenoid.

I'm guessing I should separate and put fusible links on Red-2 at the starter solenoid and Red-3 at the horn relay. Probably, to be safe, I'll put the inline fuses on the Blk and BLk/Wht wires to the battery gauge as mentioned. Looks to me the cig lighter is unprotected or will a fusible link at Red-3 do the job?

Would you ever use a fuse and a fusible link on same circuit?
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