|04-13-2011 08:01 PM|
oops. Sorry for that.
Here's the vid and the patch panel part starts at 11 minutes.
Streetroddin, I do that too with the cuts. I guess as long as it's bigger it's not a big deal. There's some ways though to minimize the shaving part. In any case, you're right about the flanger. Always nice to have those. Where I work we can't use them often. Only where they are hidden, for rails, something that needs the strength, and odd shapes that would be a nightmare for an open butt weld. Here's a pretty good example of an odd shape one...
|04-13-2011 10:57 AM|
36 Ford Patch panel
Tech 69s' vid not woking for me woulda been nice for ya for sure! Maybe he can get it workin,,,,He is right on on the procedure tho (buttweld) & if ya can borrow & use a crimping tool @ the weld point that does make it a bit easier & a nicer joint fit..gives a nice little lip to slide under the original for the weld joint & ground smooth on both sides after welding...sadly most every patch I have ever delt with had to be trimmed to fit, measure 20 times & cut once..lol! just use what ya have to leave as much original as possible....Dinger has a great piece of advice on the reinforcement as this is a problem area for splitting. Good Luck & enjoy!
|04-13-2011 09:54 AM|
If you throw up a pic of what you want to fabricate I can help.
Here's a quick break down of a normal patch panel. At about the 11 minute mark there's a tutorial. Hope it helps. btw, I hope it's ok I post this video up. It's something I do for free and to help others. It's sort of a hobby I guess.
This would be for an open butt weld but there's other ways as well that can be easier. Just put up some pics and let's brainstorm!
|04-12-2011 06:57 PM|
|Jim H||Thanks for the input on the running boards. As far as the patch panels go.....I am going to try and do them myself. That's why I was hoping for some good advice.|
|04-11-2011 03:47 PM|
|dinger||I used Drakes running boards with no problems, I bought the smoothies though. Drake has pretty high standards for his parts, if he isn't happy, they go back to where they were made. The running boards with the rubber were quite expensive, IIRC. The patch panels, I am no help, we made our own patches. I would think your bodyman/welder would know how he wants to tackle this. Keep in mind, the fenders like to split in the wheel opening radius, I side sme round bar tacked into the underneath edge to reinforce.|
|04-11-2011 12:21 PM|
1936 Ford rear fender repair panel and running boards??
I had recently purchased a pair of fender patches (EMS). And was wondering if anyone out there had some experience with installing these? They seem to be a bit larger coming into the wheel opening than they need to be and have a crease in them that does seem to suit any purpose on the 1936 application. Someone had suggested to me before that using as little of the repair panel possible was the way to go. I wanted to get some addition input before cutting anything. So information would be much appreciated.
I also discovered while checking for fit to the running board, after peeling up the rubber. That the running boards are also finished. I looked on Drake site and Mac's, they were surprisingly inexpensive. I am going to go with the covered boards again, but will opt out of the boards with rubber install and save a few bucks. My question is who's boards has the best fit? Or are they all coming from the same manufacturer?