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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-22-2011 05:04 AM
DanTwoLakes Always check the simple things first. When you have a problem, it's almost always something very simple. The thread comes off the left side of the bobbin and goes under the flat tension spring on the bobbin case. If you did that, your bobbin is installed correctly.
04-22-2011 02:03 AM
bentwings Well I got the welt foot for the windlace. My initial test was ok. At least the seam was snug against the curve of the foam rubber.

The stitch per inch however is now about 8 instead of 5 I was getting. Not sure what was wrong. I took the test apart a number of times but the length of the stitch is still the same.

I switched back to the standard foot and made a seam. Well now the problems started. The top thread is far too loose and totally unresponsive to the tensioner. I took the tensioner apart thinking there might be a piece of thread caught in it. Nothing. It actually was very clean with no wear at all.
Then I went back to Dan's threading pictures and rethreaded the whole thing. It really was ok except for the top pin. I keep forgetting to bring the loc-tite home so I can properly position it. I did thread it but it is rotated almost 90 degrees.

Then I went after the bobbin. I installed a new one. I could see the spring down along side the bobbin case but I couldn't get the the thread under it. Finally I managed to get the thread to go around the bobbin case and it slipped under the spring.

What a difference. Now the stitches are back to 5 per inch and nice and tight. the tensioner now adjusts too.

I'll try the windlace welt foot tomorrow too. I think the thread pitch will be much better.

I hope this is the correct way the install the bobbin. It sure works nice now. The instruction book doesn't address this very well.
04-18-2011 09:15 AM
bentwings I'll give that a try tonight.

Thanks.
04-18-2011 06:52 AM
DanTwoLakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty82
True, Dan - I just find it a lot easier to flip the lever to lock the presser foot up and be done with it. I didn't mean to imply that locking it in the up position was the only way to do it.
I like to thread the machine with the foot down, then the tension disks hold the thread in place. It doesn't matter, as long as the thread is seated in the tensioner correctly when you're done.
04-17-2011 11:06 PM
bentwings I just did a test of this to imprint my mind on how this tensioner works.

With the presser down it is much harder to pull the thread between the discs. This why I was having trouble getting started.
With the presser up the thread just barely drags, but you can definitely feel it 'drop in'.

As for threading the needle I haven't had a bit of trouble with this. My eyes are much better than my ears. haha
04-17-2011 04:01 PM
Dusty82 True, Dan - I just find it a lot easier to flip the lever to lock the presser foot up and be done with it. I didn't mean to imply that locking it in the up position was the only way to do it.
04-17-2011 02:22 PM
DanTwoLakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty82
Do know that when you go to thread your machine you need to make sure the presser foot is locked in the UP position. That opens those tensioning disks to allow the thread to slip between them while you're threading it. I didn't know that when I first started out and it caused me no end to tensioning problems.

The foot doesn't have to be up to thread the machine, you just need to make sure the thread is seated all the way down in between the tension disks. You can do that without the foot being up with no problem unless your top tension is too tight. If you don't seat the thread all the way down it can screw up the first few stitches until the top thread tightens itself up just from running through the machine. If you hold onto the top thread when you pick up the bottom thread, the top thread should seat itself.
04-17-2011 01:52 PM
bentwings I discovered that after Dan's post above. There are actually 2 positions....up and all the way up. I just didn't lift hard enough. I cleaned and oiled the cam so it works smoother.

I need to get more proficient with the knee lifter. I'm going to work on it tonight during my "training session".

Thanks
04-17-2011 01:23 PM
Dusty82 Do know that when you go to thread your machine you need to make sure the presser foot is locked in the UP position. That opens those tensioning disks to allow the thread to slip between them while you're threading it. I didn't know that when I first started out and it caused me no end to tensioning problems.
04-17-2011 01:05 PM
bentwings Ok so I just operated the knee lifter as you said and sure enough the discs move. Not much but definitely an improvement. I think this 'rod' is worn so I think it would be best to replace it.

I did find part numbers so I thinkI'll get one tomorrow.
04-17-2011 10:49 AM
Dusty82
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
99% of the time when the machine doesn't sew properly, it is operator error, and the machine doesn't need to be adjusted.
I hope to shout! I'm the poster child for that statement!
04-17-2011 10:41 AM
DanTwoLakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings

It takes quite a tug to pull out both threads after a seam. The machine needs to be in just the right position but it still takes too much to pull it out. It is consistent but I think it is too much. What can I do to adjust this???

Thanks for all the help.

There isn't anything you need to adjust. You need to lift the foot as high as it will go with the knee lifter and hold it up which releases the tension disks on the top thread tension. Then the thread pulls out easy. Raise the foot with the knee lifter and watch the two tension disks as you do it. You can see the two disks come apart. If it doesn't do this, the rod that releases the disks is worn down and it needs to be replaced. This is an easy minor repair that you can do yourself.

99% of the time when the machine doesn't sew properly, it is operator error, and the machine doesn't need to be adjusted.

It doesn't matter if the paper disks are on the pre-wound bobbins or not. I have pre-wound bobbins that don't come with paper disks on them, and they work just fine.

The braking action you are talking about holds the machine when the foot pedal is pushed down at the heel. This is a mechanical braking and not an electric braking which is what is used in industrial applications. Companies like Warner Electric Brake and Clutch and Electroid were makers of these types of clutch brakes. Clutches disengage a load from its power source, and brakes stop a load. Servo motors on sewing machines do not have this feature and it makes absolutely no difference in operating the machine.
04-17-2011 10:06 AM
bentwings I think you are right. Thread from the first bobbin pulled out after a seam very easy. Even just pulling a little extra out was easy. Now there is noticeable drag.

The bobbin that was in the machine when I got it had the paper flange removed on the top side as installed. I replaced it with a new one after removing the paper. This may or may not have caused some or the start up problems. I now just put them in as made since the steel ones have both flanges it follows that the paper ones should too..

This brings up another point. After I installed the new cogged v-belt, I discovered that the clutch not only engages but is also a brake for the machine. I should have known as the same type of clutch/brake is often used in my former life as automation engineer. I did adjust the belt so the heavy motor doesn't just hang on the belt. I pinched the belt together a little as I tightened the adjuster. There is a little deflection in the belt, I wouldn't want my alternator belt like this but they are made for heavy tension, I don't think it would be a good idea to have heavy tension as the bearings probably can't handle this. It's very hard to slip the belt with the handwheel.

Also the clutch has a neutral position controlled with the foot pedal so you can rotate the handwheel to the top position after a seam. You probably did this automatically in the pre servo motor days.

It takes quite a tug to pull out both threads after a seam. The machine needs to be in just the right position but it still takes too much to pull it out. It is consistent but I think it is too much. What can I do to adjust this???

Thanks for all the help.
04-17-2011 07:58 AM
DanTwoLakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
I don't know exactly why the change in bobbin made the difference since they came out of the same box. The thread from the first one was curled where this one is nice and straight like the needle thread. There may have been something stuck in the tensioner. I haven't had it apart however.
Probably because you didn't have the thread engaged with the little spring steel tension on the bobbin case. When you pull on the bobbin thread, you should feel some resistance. If you don't, the bobbin's not loaded correctly.
04-16-2011 09:19 PM
Coodeville Have you had a mechanic check this machine out?
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