|04-16-2011 06:51 PM|
|deadbodyman||if your using the rattle can undercoating be sure to use "paintable" rubberized undercoating, it'll dry ,that other stuff wont...its a pretty good quick fix until it can be blasted and painted or powder coated..|
|04-15-2011 07:41 PM|
|V8&4spd||You can use razor blades to remove the lacquer paint. It has to come off of there if you use urethane paint. The factory primer can stay, that is some tuff stuff. Urethane paint can cause what is called a lacquer reaction. It can cause the lacquer under the urethane to wrinkle up.|
|04-15-2011 07:20 PM|
|04-13-2011 04:53 PM|
The last car I helped on was with my dad's Camaro. It had some nasty black lacquer on it. We used a DA on it, but he got impatient and used a pressure washer that was hooked up to a boiler that blew the paint off in great big sheets. Oddly enough, it didn't warp the metal!
Thanks for the advice! I have a ton of pics on this project, but most are the boring "how this tube was bent" and "where that wire is connected" stuff.
|04-13-2011 04:37 PM|
|swvalcon||That's why you want to strip outside of panels. The old paint on these old gm's will crack your new paint job[maybe]. I would strip it with a 8" mud hog or 6" da with 80 or 40 grit.Just keep it moving and don't stay in one spot too long or stand it on end. If you just sand really good in the jams you should get the paint thin enough to not be a issue.|
|04-13-2011 01:19 PM|
|el pollo||Thanks for the tips. I will keep everyone posted. I've assisted on projects like this before, but never solo. So sometimes it's a bit unnerving. Epoxy is within the next few weeks, or few months. No later than the middle of summer. I was asking the lacquer question because when I first got the car, I inquired on how much work and cost it would be for a repaint at a shop, and the guy told me the car had to be rid of every bit of lacquer.|
|04-13-2011 12:37 PM|
|swvalcon||The undercoat on frame looks good the day you put it on but that's about it. I would strip outside panels to bare metal and sand as much as possible off the jams. Then epoxy every thing and work from there. good luck with project.|
|04-13-2011 11:56 AM|
|cyclopsblown34||I'm thinking if you don't have an epoxy primer applied to the metal prior to applying the undercoating, you're liable to have a corrosion issue but I could very easily be wrong. Either way, I like the project. Keep us up to date please.|
|04-13-2011 10:15 AM|
Two paint questions...
Okay, I am full steam ahead on my project that has been otherwise sitting for too long. It's my 1979 Trans Am that is covered in canary yellow lacquer paint. It's faded after 32 years of life, and I don't like it anymore. So my first question is; do I have to remove every square inch of lacquer both inside and out in order to have the new base coat/clear coat stick without any problems?
Second question has pictures. Since I am doing this project by myself (in leu of various machine work, etc), I decided to cover the frame with some Dupli-Color rubberized undercoat to stop any rust buildup, so I can send it to get powder coated at a later date. I don't currently have an enclosed shop, and North Carolina summers can be a bit "sticky." My problem is I like how it came out. Should I keep the coating on the frame? Will it last?
This is the current state of affairs on the project:
And here's what the coating looks like on a section of the frame:
Should I keep it?