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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-14-2011 08:59 PM
MARTINSR Again, look at what you did to make the change. Forget about moving hinges if it worked before you changed the latches. The latches are repro, "Similar to original, can be used if nothing else is available". So being they are "similar", they are possibly rubbing on the striker because they stick out more than the original. They could also be "grabbing" the striker being they are not the same shape as the original. One thing you can do is put a little wad of "dumb dumb" (3m Strip caulk) on the striker and gently close the door until the latch hits the striker marking the strip caulk. You then can see if the "wheel" on the latch is hitting the edge of the striker for instance, instead of the portion of the striker that it is designed to hit to spin the "wheel" latching the latch. Often if the striker is out too far, or the door too far forward or back too far back and wheel and the striker aren't in proper alignment and the wheels side rubs on the striker instead of the wheel simply being turned by the striker as it is supposed to.

Putting the dumb dumb on it and gently closing the door until it hits and marks the dumb dumb lets you see exactly where it is hitting the striker.

Brian
04-14-2011 02:17 PM
cornfieldcars Wow...really appriciate all the responses. The door is lined up very well. Before installing the latches the doors were just right. With the latches installed the doors shut with little effort. I'm thinking you were right in the first post Martin. It seems like the striker needs to come out a little, but when it is latched tight, the seams and everything are all lined up just right. Wouldn't moving the strikers out misalign the door? Not to mention I don't have the rubber in yet which will make this problem even worse. Could the hinges be misaligned causing this? thanks again
04-14-2011 10:02 AM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
One of the biggest mistakes people make is the "They are new so they are perfect and not the problem" mistake. You have to look at EVERYTHING. First off, were they acting this way with the old latches? Well if they weren't then you do have to think about too.

Swing the door in until the latch just touches the striker. Look at the relationship of the door to the cab while you stand back away from the cab at arms length. Look at the relationship of the cab and door and with your hand push the door shut, it doesn't even have to latch completely, just push it shut. As the door moves that last inch or so as the latch passes thru the striker, does the door go up or down at the back? Look at it close, it is often difficult to see this. Look at it in relation to the cab at a body line usually is the best place. Stare at that body line as you push the door shut and see if it goes up or down. If it is, then you need to move the striker up or down so it isn't forcing the door to move, thus BINDING the latch against the striker. Of course, the right thing could be to move the door up or down at the back because the striker is in the perfect place for door alignment. But I am just trying to get across the concept right now. The concept that the striker and latch could be binding.

Brian
funny, I was going to mention that. Just never had it not open due to that. Good stuff.
04-14-2011 09:40 AM
dsraven
latch

I'm with martinsr on this one. the first thing you gotta do is get the body lines right. I usually do this without the striker in place, then there is no ability for the striker to move the door once it gets close to the closing area. adjust the door to fit the opening, then install the striker and adjust the striker to match the latch. when done, it should close without binding, and like martinsr says, the striker shouldn't be moving the door up or down, just in. sometimes I will place a long straight magnet against the body line of the door, so it overhangs the door some, and as the door swings slowly closed I watch to see how the maget edge lines up with the body line on the cab. it makes it easy to see if the door needs to go up or down to match the body lines.
got any pics of that door/cab relationship?
have fun with it,
dsraven
04-14-2011 09:27 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69
Could be your rod. Might need adjustment or is bent.
It doesn't use a rod, the inside uses a large flat piece of metal that is about impossible to be bad. The outside uses no rod as the handle sticks right into the latch and rotates the latch mechanism.

Brian
04-14-2011 09:25 AM
MARTINSR One of the biggest mistakes people make is the "They are new so they are perfect and not the problem" mistake. You have to look at EVERYTHING. First off, were they acting this way with the old latches? Well if they weren't then you do have to think about too.

Swing the door in until the latch just touches the striker. Look at the relationship of the door to the cab while you stand back away from the cab at arms length. Look at the relationship of the cab and door and with your hand push the door shut, it doesn't even have to latch completely, just push it shut. As the door moves that last inch or so as the latch passes thru the striker, does the door go up or down at the back? Look at it close, it is often difficult to see this. Look at it in relation to the cab at a body line usually is the best place. Stare at that body line as you push the door shut and see if it goes up or down. If it is, then you need to move the striker up or down so it isn't forcing the door to move, thus BINDING the latch against the striker. Of course, the right thing could be to move the door up or down at the back because the striker is in the perfect place for door alignment. But I am just trying to get across the concept right now. The concept that the striker and latch could be binding.

Brian
04-14-2011 09:19 AM
tech69 Could be your rod. Might need adjustment or is bent.
04-14-2011 05:38 AM
cornfieldcars LOL...I'm not out to prove anyone wrong but I've brought it out as far as I can. I might try using a file on the striker to give me a little wiggle room. As for the latch, it's brand new and operates just fine. I didn't buy new strikers so I will tinker around with those and if I screw em up I'll but new ones. Eventually would like to install bear claws. Thanks for all the input.
04-13-2011 09:46 PM
tech69 It's Master Martin! Howdy!

Martin's probably right, and always is, but if that doesn't take care of it I'd grease the latch mechanism and throw some silicone spray on it. Let us know...I know Martin's gotta be wrong at some point.
04-13-2011 03:18 PM
MARTINSR Sounds like you need to move the striker out.

Brian
04-13-2011 03:03 PM
DanTwoLakes No problem, this belongs in Body-Exterior, and I'll move it there for you.

Dan
04-13-2011 02:59 PM
cornfieldcars
48 chevy p/u door adjustment

If this isn't in the right forum I apologize...

I'm trying to finish up the 48 but am having a problem with the doors. I installed new (repo) latches in both doors. The problem is when I shut the door it closes really well...too well. In fact I can't get them open unless I take a screwdriver and push on the semi-circular toothed latch inside the door. Is there an adjustment I'm missing on this? After I get it open and close it good again...the same thing happens. Appreciate the help

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