|08-20-2003 01:59 PM|
|gt2betubbed||LOL! I've never seen anything like that! Sounds like a P I T A!|
|08-20-2003 01:56 PM|
|engineczar||mid 80's AMC Spirit. We were swapping out the inline 6 for one out of the boneyard. The top center transmission to engine bolt is under the lip of the transmission tunnel. The only way to get it loose (besides pulling motor and tranny together) was to use every 3/8 drive extension and universal my friend and I owned and loosen it from somewhere near the back of the car. The new engine does not have that bolt installed.|
|08-20-2003 05:07 AM|
At the Freightliner facilty I am at, we started a new "rule" for design engineers. You draw it, you put the first one on. Due to this program, we have saved considerable money, just in commonizing small hardware. It also does a world of good morale wise for the grunts out on the line putting this stuff together everyday!
As a side note, the comic relief of watching some of these folks could make a great "how to not" video. Some of the engineers look forward to it. They are not ALL egg heads
|08-20-2003 12:37 AM|
Hey Johnsongrass...I had an 83 Monte..that's what I did too...
I own old junk...Chevy stuff...I can't think of anything I've struggled with in the past few years....
I wish I was there to see Chuck outside with a wrench and bobber hanging off his fishing pole....what else did you catch that day?
|08-19-2003 07:45 PM|
That has got to be the worst engine bay design/setup I have ever seen. Sure, it may be more Aerodynamic causes of the hood line, but whatever amount of money it saves you in fuel will be used up for the labour at the shop. That's just messed up.
|08-19-2003 05:00 PM|
I had to change out the power steering pump line on my girlfriend's 89 Prelude. If anyone's ever seen one with the hood open, they can back me up cuz I think it has the tightest engine bay EVER! You can't even stick your fingers inbetween the block and the strut towers. Well, the line came from the front of the engine, all the way around it, while going through all kinds of damn vacuum hoses, then down and around the crossmember. It didn't make sense since the pump and box were only about 7 inches away from eachother why they went all the way around the engine. Not to mention the part that went around the crossmember was all steel prebent lines, it was almost a complete circle! Now that was a 5 hour nightmare...
|08-19-2003 04:09 PM|
Yup try and talk to my hubby while he's reading a play boy mag!! Near next to the impossible!!!!!
|08-19-2003 03:15 PM|
i've always said that if i had a car company all the designers who built a vehicle would have to take the vehicle apart completely after it was built, and do basic maintenance on it too, just to see how much of a p.i.t.a. it would be to work on it.
if i ever built cars i would have super basic body like the 60's and 70's with discs up front and a r&p with a 6 or 8 GM motor. no power windows, no dvd, no gps, no a/c, no fancy dials.
|08-19-2003 08:11 AM|
|TooMany2count||change a fuel filter on a mid 90's 4x4 s10 blazer, its under the power streering pump or put a water pump on a 3800 in a Buick Park Ave, funnnnnnnnnnn...joe|
|08-19-2003 07:24 AM|
|08-18-2003 09:30 AM|
|dinger||This is why shops stay in business and do quite well.Johnsongrass, I would have tried a short piece of rubber gas line hooke to some hard line, boosted the tank up into place and cut the old line to fit the new line. Sounds easy, maybe it would have worked? 4jaw, dynamite would have been the answer for that car, I refuse to work on fwd cars anymore, I do more damage than good. btw, Johnson, is that your late model in your avatar? love dirt tracking, late models are my fave come on out to Bakersfield Oct 11 for the Bud nationals. 100 lapper, whooohooo! Dan|
|08-18-2003 07:42 AM|
|Madd Syntst||1969 Mustang w/ Boss 429. Third spark plug back on the passenger side. Only way I know is take a hole saw to the inner fender well and put a plug in it!|
|08-18-2003 06:55 AM|
i buy a 38 dodge hotrod Im 20years old its got a polly v8 and castiron 727 it goes great but decide togive it a freshen up
some guys in my club are whispering and pointing so i take it of the road (hey its driven daily) rebuild the mill the starter has trouble so i send it out. the guy says the bendix is NLA
but he can clean mine up put it back in it lunches the ring gear
but its atached to the tourqe converter in the local trading paper theres an add (alloy 727) i buy it less weight great
he sells me a starter too. fantastic strip the front pull out the combo go to bolt up the used bit nothing fits not even close
pollys have 8 bolt cranks latemodleshave 6 bolts and a flex plate so we draw up and cut an adaptor plate great (wrong)
we now need longer bolts and the front nose of the convertor
hits back of polly crank we grind nose for clerance it all fits great install ,start run , it hemorages all over floor,convertor needs to locate in cranksharft so we pull out he combo strip the mill to machine the crank to locate the new convertors nose get the auto rinsed out buy a friend there a little damage to the pump
he fixes that and we put it all back in
now im short one hand brake cast iron autos have a drum brake out back the rear crossmembers an inch out and the tailsharft
flanges look great but wont mate up (twenty years later)
i throw out the polly machined up a late modle 318bolted in the good stuff and bought a stallconvertor 2200 it went in to the auto only 2 clicks and flopped around the guy on the phone says it has to go in just give it a tap i say theres somthing wrong
dont be shy he says its just a burr or somthing (wrong )
hes put a late late modle insides in my stally there 19 and 23
splines now its on and wont come off so after major gas axe surgery and my new convertor in three pieces and beyond warrantee buy a newy its finally going back together
oh and allong the way we got a late model 8 3/4 diff with drums
|08-18-2003 05:51 AM|
I once spent 4 1/2 - 5 hours installing a starter in a SBC.
One of the bolt holes in the block was missing along with a rather large chunk of the block casting. Someone had drilled and tapped a new hole with the intention (maybe?) of fitting a new bolt in a new location. Problem was it was in line with the starters main shaft, Some people amaze me. they must have realised their mistake because they had tried using silicone to hold the bolt in instead. Causing me to nearly crown myself with the starter when I undid the short bolt and the starter, to my surprise, fell out.
So I pondered the solution. In the end I decided a larger bolt could be threaded into a new BIGA$$ hole and be tapped to suit the smaller bolt in line with the starter mounting hole. This is where it became a challenge to do so, without hoisting the engine. I had a big mother bolt in my spares so I borrowed a tap for this and one for the original starter bolt. I thought easy..drill the hole tap it for this big bolt then, cut the bolt down to thread into the block............ WRONG!
I couldn't get the car high enough to drill coz the big drill bit for the job was super long and, added to the length of the drill, amounted to one big unit to swing under the car. So I think that there is enough metal missing from my block (as it was broken in a shell shape) so I could just use the tap to bore into the cast.
Well this did work but I had to use a shifter (crescent wrench to you guys) as the tap handle didn't fit into the available space with exhaust steering etc in the way. on top of this I had to hold the spanner on an angle which gave me less leverage. And this is maybe an hour into the job LOL. Finally I had a threaded hole to suit the big bolt.
Any way I mark and crop this big bolt so it is now just a bit of thread (I will call it a bung from now on to make this easier) and turn it into the block so it is flush. I had to grind a slot into the bung and use a screw driver to get it in the block. "Man all this for a starter".
With the starter held in place with the short bolt I marked on the bung where to drill for the long bolt hole. Remove the bung , drill and tap it for the long bolt. Now when I try to tighten the bolt the bung turns in the thread DUH!
So this is where the hole I mentioned earlier which lined up with the main shaft of the starter comes in handy. My tapping the big hole actually removed a small part of the hole, so I made a small groove on the bung and used a grub screw to hold the bung still.
You wouldn't believe that this took so long and when I was finished my hands and head ached LOL........ but I did it and the starter is still there after over two years daily driving.
Sorry bout the long tale but I couldn't have possibly shortened it and still told all of it
|08-18-2003 03:03 AM|
|4 Jaw Chuck||
Ever do a power steering pump on a Taurus SHO? The third mount bolt is impossible to reach from the top or bottom, I got it by dangling a wrench from a string and used a wire to guide it onto the bolt. Broke two strings trying to pull hard enough to break it loose and had to resort to chain in the end. Thank God the rust hadn't ruined the bolt head yet, I would have had to drop the subframe and engine to get it out.
I was lucky, I changed the pump and flushed the system in only 8 hours (not counting swearing fits in the 102F (36C) heat), one of the bones in my forearm still aches weeks later. I sure have to hand it those guys doing new car repair, these things are brutal. Doing this kind of automotive repair is not even enjoyable, it's a test to see if you have the guts. When will modular become the rule instead of the exception, at least make the parts interchange.
I'm still not sure why the pump for the SHO was different between automatics and standards? It's the same car with the same rack etc.etc.etc.
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