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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-02-2011 12:43 PM
matt167 After some space consideration, I want to make a boom crane ( sorta like an engine crane ) rather than the Gantry. This will allow me to work off of 1 side rather than 2, and allow dropping an engine/ trans in the frame a breeze with 2 winch's and hooks.. I now have 1 of the 2 5798 winches I will need. I still need 4 snag blocks/ pully's. I will attach the snag blocks into the boom with Forged Eye bolts and heavy duty quick links rated at or above 3,000 lbs

Tower and all supports will bolt onto the base, and the frame itself should be good for 2-3 tons, but being the winch is 1 ton, that will be my max weight.. I guess I could support 2 tons with the weight carried over both winch's, but I don't have anything that heavy. Tho I will make a load bar that can utilize both winch's
05-01-2011 09:52 AM
matt167 Yep. Worm gear design works as a brake without any mechanical brake. That's 1 reason why I went with the 5798 winch.. The handle should be easy to turn loaded anyway.
05-01-2011 06:48 AM
timothale
the better winch

I bought the truck crane and it had the gear to gear drive. I bought a big heavy wood stove for the shop at a garage sale and used it to load the stove up on the flatbed truck. My neighbor bought some livestock and his truck wasn't running and wanted to borrow mine to pull his 4 horse trailer. I was just leaving in the car and told him to just unload the stove in front of the shop. He cranked it up an inch off the bed. swung the stove out and started to crank it down. with the gear to gear winch and the weight he couldn't control it and the handle was spinning his hand around. It hit the ground but didn't break anything. The worm gear drive is slower but the design minimizes the possibility of it getting away from you. I have that winch on my crane now and also on my sheetrock lifter. I put on double nuts and use my right angle drill to power the lifter up or down then slip the handle over the DD flats and hand crank for final height.
05-01-2011 12:47 AM
matt167 Well, I took the first step in building this. I got the 5798 winch from HF. first impressions of the winch are, it's ok. It's 40:1 ratio so it's slow but it'll work. It has a 'hard spot' on the drum which tells me the drum is off centered. I think I'll take it to my local Napa and have the machinist turn it center and insert a bronze bushing. Wish I had a lathe. It will probably wear in and be just fine otherwise. But a bushing with a little grease on it won't be a bad thing
04-27-2011 10:14 AM
matt167 Yea, the only real reason I used it was because I had to support the trans somehow. it was supporting maby 200lbs of transmission weight, the engine crane had the rest.. Using that with the engine crane is a big reason on why I want somthing better
04-27-2011 07:41 AM
oldred
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
I hate those things.. I'v used them before, but even there intended purpose there a pain to use... actually had to 'sling' the C6 with 1 to get the engine/ trans off the truck. it actually slipped a couple times letting it down. But that's what I had and it did work for that


That's why they are so dangerous, they are not supposed to work if the load remains on the line after the lever is pulled. The only thing they are good for is pulling dead loads such as dragging something across a floor. There is absolutely no safe way to lower a load with one of these things and in fact it is designed not to do that and that's why they are such a PITA when someone tries to lower a load with one.


Several years ago a fella at a mine where I was doing a job a fella tried to pull a 350 Chevy engine from a truck with one of these things and when he tried to lower it he encountered the usual problem of having to let it down a notch at a time but at one point the teeth had not fully engaged in the locking pawl. As soon as he attempted to let it down another notch it jumped a couple of teeth and then caught snapping the handle up breaking two fingers and ripping into his face. He had to have plastic surgery to repair the damage to his nose and left eye, basically they had to re-attach his nose and part of his left brow. When they warn those things are not meant to lift with they mean just that but I am willing to bet they are used for lifting more than anything else in spite of the number of accidents they have caused and the fact they have no mechanism designed for lowering , they can get you in ways you would never expect and when you least expect it!
04-27-2011 12:27 AM
matt167
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
I use these

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...inch-5798.html

They are a bit slower to operate but there is no neutral to them so they will hold in position and yes they will lift a motor and trans if needed..put 2 on one on each side as that will help in balancing a load if needed..

the cable will run to a block in the then to a block in the center of the lift. use a snatch block so it is easy to re rig if needed..

Sam
Much cheaper than what I had picked out too. I'v seen people accidently click the boat winches in neutral and leave the boat in the water when they go to pull it out. it's hard not to point and laugh
04-27-2011 12:22 AM
matt167
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Just as a suggestion - don't over think this. The engine went in with a case strength chain wrapped around the house I-beam and a 2T chainfall and in a less then 7 foot clearance in my basement garage. As the span was a bit more then I preferred, I used a couple of the long construction jacks I own, but could have used common lolly columns or even a couple 2x4's screwed together and wedged in place. The body (even the heavy four door I started with before the roadster) was on and off several times in the same area using a beam connected to the I-beam and made from two 2x6x10 foot long screwed together. Then the final assembly was done in my normal 2 car garage with a 9 foot ceiling. I spread the weight over several floor joists with a couple lengths of 4"x4"x4', dropped a chain down then used two 2T chain falls. That upper floor is well supported by lolly columns and a beam. Unfortunately, I don't have many photos of this operation, but this below is the body, suspended from the two 2T chain falls. As far as my cost - probably less then $25 as most of what I used, I already had



Even a 460 wouldn't "kill" my arrangement or me

Dave W
Nice setup. I don't have access to the rafters tho.. There are a couple ropes tied into some beams for lifting, but all in the wrong spots
04-27-2011 12:04 AM
matt167
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
I've built a couple of heavy swing sets for my kids over the years, 2 inch surplus pipe for the legs and the top beam was a truss, upside down V with straight bottom pipe and braces,the legs telescope into 1 ft pieces of 2 1/2 pipe, then holes drilled to bolt together. One set was from a school that closed down. surplus sale CHEAP , I ve changed a lot of engines and a couple of bodies lifted off with them. . the latest one has a 4 in I beam with 2 trollies from a closed down Ford factory. pennies per pound for the steel The 2 trollies make it nice to have 2 chain hoists that are easy to move. . For the legs I used the V from the front of portable (trailer) classrooms/, A piece of 4 x 6,, 1/4 wall surplus tube for the upright to the I beam. , It has military surplus double castors at each corner wheel, wheel brakes and locks. I have 16 ft walls in the shop and it is tall enough to get the backhoe under and wide enough to fit the 6 wheel equipment trailer underneath, The harbor freight one looks doable for using in a house garage, and it telescopes up. probably cheaper than paying retail for the steel and welding rod.
I considered the HF 1, but I do think I could build a lot cheaper. my supplier gets about $30/ 8' section of 2x3 and, I have more 7014 welding rod than I know what to do with. Even building a complete A frame with 4 8' posts, I think I'll come in under $300.. if I build it like a T and cross brace it on the feet, I could do it a little cheaper
04-26-2011 11:59 PM
matt167
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
I'm pretty sure most everyone already knows not to use this type of winch for lifting (even the more expensive ones) but it is worth mentioning anyway. These things are for pulling "dead" loads only and should NEVER be used to lift or pull any load that will fall or spring suddenly when tension is released. There have been a lot of accidents attributed to using these for lifting but still they are used for that purpose by some people anyway, doing so is a dangerous undertaking!

http://www.harborfreight.com/4000-lb...ler-30329.html
I hate those things.. I'v used them before, but even there intended purpose there a pain to use... actually had to 'sling' the C6 with 1 to get the engine/ trans off the truck. it actually slipped a couple times letting it down. But that's what I had and it did work for that
04-26-2011 03:55 PM
timothale
gantry crane

I've built a couple of heavy swing sets for my kids over the years, 2 inch surplus pipe for the legs and the top beam was a truss, upside down V with straight bottom pipe and braces,the legs telescope into 1 ft pieces of 2 1/2 pipe, then holes drilled to bolt together. One set was from a school that closed down. surplus sale CHEAP , I ve changed a lot of engines and a couple of bodies lifted off with them. . the latest one has a 4 in I beam with 2 trollies from a closed down Ford factory. pennies per pound for the steel The 2 trollies make it nice to have 2 chain hoists that are easy to move. . For the legs I used the V from the front of portable (trailer) classrooms/, A piece of 4 x 6,, 1/4 wall surplus tube for the upright to the I beam. , It has military surplus double castors at each corner wheel, wheel brakes and locks. I have 16 ft walls in the shop and it is tall enough to get the backhoe under and wide enough to fit the 6 wheel equipment trailer underneath, The harbor freight one looks doable for using in a house garage, and it telescopes up. probably cheaper than paying retail for the steel and welding rod.
04-26-2011 02:42 PM
oldred I'm pretty sure most everyone already knows not to use this type of winch for lifting (even the more expensive ones) but it is worth mentioning anyway. These things are for pulling "dead" loads only and should NEVER be used to lift or pull any load that will fall or spring suddenly when tension is released. There have been a lot of accidents attributed to using these for lifting but still they are used for that purpose by some people anyway, doing so is a dangerous undertaking!

http://www.harborfreight.com/4000-lb...ler-30329.html
04-26-2011 02:30 PM
Irelands child Just as a suggestion - don't over think this. The engine went in with a case strength chain wrapped around the house I-beam and a 2T chainfall and in a less then 7 foot clearance in my basement garage. As the span was a bit more then I preferred, I used a couple of the long construction jacks I own, but could have used common lolly columns or even a couple 2x4's screwed together and wedged in place. The body (even the heavy four door I started with before the roadster) was on and off several times in the same area using a beam connected to the I-beam and made from two 2x6x10 foot long screwed together. Then the final assembly was done in my normal 2 car garage with a 9 foot ceiling. I spread the weight over several floor joists with a couple lengths of 4"x4"x4', dropped a chain down then used two 2T chain falls. That upper floor is well supported by lolly columns and a beam. Unfortunately, I don't have many photos of this operation, but this below is the body, suspended from the two 2T chain falls. As far as my cost - probably less then $25 as most of what I used, I already had



Even a 460 wouldn't "kill" my arrangement or me

Dave W
04-26-2011 01:57 PM
OneMoreTime I use these

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...inch-5798.html

They are a bit slower to operate but there is no neutral to them so they will hold in position and yes they will lift a motor and trans if needed..put 2 on one on each side as that will help in balancing a load if needed..

the cable will run to a block in the then to a block in the center of the lift. use a snatch block so it is easy to re rig if needed..

Sam
04-26-2011 11:51 AM
matt167 so you mean, instead of using the hydraulic ram or the chain hoist, just use boat winches at the back and hook the cable to the end and make it pretty much a true crane? what do you mean by a block for a guide? using a boat winch crossed my mind, but I was unsure about the strength of the cable, and I do tend to overthink/ over engineer some things that I build..

Could I use 2 heavy duty pully's on the boom instead of a guide block. put the winch's at like 5' up the post?

something like this winch? just have to be careful not to throw it in neutral. that would be bad.. but all boat winches have neutral I think.. I wouldn't get it from this ebay seller, probably off Amazon as they have it too
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fulton-3-200lb-T...-/250740274673
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