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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-27-2011 10:43 AM
46highboypu It's too bad you are the other side of IN from me or we do some parts stuff. I certainly feel for you with the weather. Need to sweep the water out of my little garage every day but at least the hot rod is inside.
Yes, lots of firewall insulation and seal around the trans as well. Putting more insulation in the doors will help too.
Well good luck with project!!
04-26-2011 12:26 PM
RattyFather Yes, like a sunroof.

My driver's door has been completely gutted. No glass or regulator (or even door latch). So I'll need to find those still. I took a look at the glass that's in the passenger door and it is cracked. The frame is rusted to the regulator.

It doesn't look like it should be too hard to make a window frame once I've found the right extruded metal. I'd have to look at it closer once I get the window out. Unfortunately the who project is sitting out in the weather since last week's storm blew away my portable garage. Once it quits raining, I'll spend some time taking that all apart with the help of some PB Blaster.

I talked to my son and he's OK with the idea of having a non-operable windshield. He'd rather spend that money somewhere else on the truck. We're going for "custom" in the first place. Between running fender-less and having louvers on the hood, we should dissipate some of that heat. Also thinking that insulating the firewall might help.
04-26-2011 12:07 PM
46highboypu I'm not sure I understand the cloth top, like a sunroof? or a roadster pickup?
I don't think I miss the opening windshield as I have a louvered hood and alot of engine heat would be coming in. I even took out the cowl vent for the same reason, and yes it gets pretty warm in the summer. The joys of hotrodding.
You have hit on one of the big problems for me with the none framed door glass. I've broken mine several times because there is not enough down in the door to hold the glass, to keep it from hard shakes. My glass guy is one of the really good guys as he offered to replace my broken glass the first time for free. I paid him anyway, and have not replaced the glass yet this time. I have two problems, one was that when I first took my doors to him to cut glass I didn't take the inner window trim and after installing them the glass is not lined up with the guides as well as it should be (my fault not his). The second problem is that there is not enough guide inside the door to hold it tight. Both of these problems are going to be fixed by taking the complete doors back to him for a rebuild as soon as I can.
04-25-2011 01:47 PM
35terraplane
46 chrvy truck

Quote:
Originally Posted by RattyFather
I was planning on having all my glass done at some glass shop in the area. Everyone has told me this is the best way of doing it.

My question has more to do with any modifications that I need to make to the regulator or anything else. I guess it's probably just cutting the new channels shorter? I notice that the existing glass has a metal frame around it. Is this necessary? From what I've read, it was added in 41 to cut down on broken glass due to channel wear. Can I just go back in with thicker glass with no metal frame?

Yes, the door top will need to be stretched.

So do you regret not having the hinged frame on your windshield? I figure it's going to be $300+ to source and modify a frame (and find the crank components). I need to find out from my son how important that hinged windshield is. We plan on doing a rag-top on this cab, so we should have plenty of air coming in that way to make up for the wind/bugs coming in through the windshield.
I was going to say you don't need the metal, but I think you will find it would be better with a cloth top. As far as the channel goes let your glass shop put those in, for the windows that crank up, you need a different channel than if you used power windows. The regulators should not have to be changed as you roll them up as far as they will go.

Bob
04-25-2011 01:26 PM
RattyFather I was planning on having all my glass done at some glass shop in the area. Everyone has told me this is the best way of doing it.

My question has more to do with any modifications that I need to make to the regulator or anything else. I guess it's probably just cutting the new channels shorter? I notice that the existing glass has a metal frame around it. Is this necessary? From what I've read, it was added in 41 to cut down on broken glass due to channel wear. Can I just go back in with thicker glass with no metal frame?

Yes, the door top will need to be stretched.

So do you regret not having the hinged frame on your windshield? I figure it's going to be $300+ to source and modify a frame (and find the crank components). I need to find out from my son how important that hinged windshield is. We plan on doing a rag-top on this cab, so we should have plenty of air coming in that way to make up for the wind/bugs coming in through the windshield.
04-25-2011 12:03 PM
46highboypu You didn't say but I guess they cut across the top so that you need to stretch the door top? When mine was done the windshield posts were layed back so the door tops just came straight down. Anyway, on my '46 the inside door panels just unscrew and there is another set of screws that hold the window regulator to a cross brace. The whole thing comes out with the brace. The windows just dropped right down with the little plastic wheels in a channel that can be worked around to let the glass and frame come out as well. Once you get into it you'll see it's pretty simple. I don't have a source for frames as my windshield is glued in.
I don't know if the picture will help, it was when the door bottom was being replaced, but the regulator brace is at the top.
Hope it all works out!!

Noel Cummins
46highboypu
04-25-2011 12:00 PM
35terraplane
46 chevy truck

Quote:
Originally Posted by RattyFather
I just picked up a partially completed project over the weekend. The chop was done by a shop out in NM but they did not finish the tops of the doors. I'm wanting to have functional side windows. The glass and regulator are missing out of the driver's side, but are still in the passenger side. I'm guessing that I'll need to pop the tack welds on that passenger door to get the glass and regulator out before I finish the top of the door.

Does anyone have experience with chopped windows in this era of a truck? I think it's about a 3.5" chop (but it could be more in order to rake the roof).

I'm also looking for some guidance in sourcing the frame for the front windshield.
As far as the glass goes I found it best, to just take it to a glass shop, they know what they are doing, can cut the glass, put it in, and save you time and trouble. and the price will not be as bad as you think. JMO

Bob
04-25-2011 09:26 AM
RattyFather
Windows in a chopped 46 Chevy truck

I just picked up a partially completed project over the weekend. The chop was done by a shop out in NM but they did not finish the tops of the doors. I'm wanting to have functional side windows. The glass and regulator are missing out of the driver's side, but are still in the passenger side. I'm guessing that I'll need to pop the tack welds on that passenger door to get the glass and regulator out before I finish the top of the door.

Does anyone have experience with chopped windows in this era of a truck? I think it's about a 3.5" chop (but it could be more in order to rake the roof).

I'm also looking for some guidance in sourcing the frame for the front windshield.

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