|04-30-2011 06:31 AM|
|deadbodyman||Burning it in will be tough ,you can try it but plan on reclearing.It wont work unless its done just right,first sand well past the repair with 1200 ,use an adheasion promoter,wait till the clear has dried ,sand the featherd edges back and sand the repair with 1500-2000 as you would before buffing, then buff. resanding with 600 and reclearing the whole car seems like a lot of work but it'll be worth it ...A lot of us do it even when the job looks great...|
|04-28-2011 06:42 PM|
Burn in Clear or Re-Clear it all?
Well, I cut the clear with 400 then 800. I had a spot that was in the worst possible area for a run which is by the back quarter window where the sail panel meets the quarter panel on the drivers side. Trying to get that out I burned through the clear...surprise huh? Anyway, there was a blemish in that same area that needed fixed anyway. You can see the problem spots on the first pic just below the back edge of window.
So how can I fix this?
Can I just spray some base to cover and then let it sit and then mist coat the clear and then apply two coats of clear on top of that and re-sand?
I guess that will give me a chance to practice my clear with the higher pressure anyway. However, I don't really want to do all that. I would have to spray the both quarter panels and the roof if I did this because there aren't any body panel gaps unless I tried to stop on a body line (67 Mustang).
I tried burning in clear at one time on a metallic paint job. I sucked on that one. I kind of just sprayed it and sprayed the burn in stuff from the aerosol can but I didn't have any real good advice.